insu

If and when I go for an aftermarket computer, i'd probably either go for a: 2nd hand power fc or Wolf V500. Although I think it will cost a fair bit more for the wolf.

Why do you have your car in neutral when you're driving down a hill? The tps is attached to the throttle plate. Its a little black box with wires coming into it from the right. It can be adjusted using two bolts holding it to the throttle plate body. The correct values for an r33 are around 0.4v for idle (closed throttle) through to around 4~4.5v for WOT.

So can: *Faulty water temp sensors. *Faulty 02 sensors (although this is debatable because some people say this only affects the open looped maps, but many people have complained of poor idling performance with this faulty sensor. *Faulty AFM *Non-recirculating BOV's. *Faulty AAC valve *Faulty Idle bypass valve *Faulty Cold start valve *Faulty computer *Faulty wiring *Excess carbon buildup in the intake plenum/AAC valve/Coldstart valve/throttle body. *Faulty fuel pump *Faulty fuel regulator *Faulty idle circuit for fuel pump to run (at idle) *Clogged fuel pump/sleeve/poor fuel. The list goes on...

I was under the same impression Matt. Didn't you say you found a loop hole of sorts MrToy? One that allowed you to pursue the cop at a civil level?

So your court date on friday was only to set a date for the hearing? Far out, now I know why so many people don't bother contesting fines. They make the experience so painfull. If you win do you get re-imbursed for things like the days of work you missed for attending court and travel costs etc? Keep us updated dude, we're all really interested to see where this goes. -Insu

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Hey thanks for all the input guys. I've glad I've waited to buy a card and didn't do it impulsively off of ebay. Its not always cheaper. -Insu

We want updates

I'm not trying to reign on your parade or anything here but you might have a hard time moving that ecu at the price. Taken from microtechs website: MicroTech LT12s Microtech LT12s LT12s $1495* The LT12S is Microtechs' latest 6 injector driver, 6 ignition driver ECU with multiple Auxilliary inputs and outputs. Most often used on 6 cyl and 3 rotor applications but also can be configured for 4 cyl vehicles. *All prices are in Australian Dollars

FYI That rear strut brace is the factory nissan one.

You're an idiot. Everyone knows its: 260.8rwkw 0-100 in 4.48 sec 1/4 in 11.97 sec.... GEEZ!

Mark Does disconnecting the AAC valve elec connector when idling make the idle drop? TPS can def affect the idle. Loosen the little screws on the tps while the car is running and turn it to adjust it so its 'closed'. Closed voltage should read something like 0.3v from memory. If its sitting too high, even when turned all the way, you might want to try cleaning out the throttle body, if you get enought deposits in there, it can hold the plate ever so slightly off giving a higher reading on the TPS when closed. Also it could be any number of other things causing the higher idle, such as a malfunctioning cold start valve or a vacuum leak. If at all possible find someone who has consult or the portable one NewKleer made, it'll let you check the majority of your sensors to see if they're working correctly. First thing I would do is what I said up the top, if when you disconnect the AAC valve, the idle drops that tells you that its something electrical, or sensor related. If the idle doesn't drop, it tells you it's most likely someting mechanical, so you should check: TPS, Cold start, AAC itself, Idle bypass screw, vacuum leaks (do that by running the car and spraying brake cleaner/carby cleaner/start ya bastard at various places around the inlet manifold/hoses/inlet pipe, if the idle rises when you spray it in a certain spot, you've found your vacuum leak). Oh and BTW I just saw your car is a R32 GTR, so i'm not 100% sure if all of the above is exactly true for your car, but it couldn't be much different, the TPS voltage just might be different.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143965

Search http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=113261 As for prices: R32 Gtst $12k to $20k depending on what condition, what mods, k's etc. R32 GTR: $18 to $25~30. As above. A car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, check out the cars for sale on this forum and on carsales, trading post etc to get an idea of how much you're going to have to spend to get what you want.

Yes it does, 1) the block is lighter 2) the block isn't as long so when mounted as close to the firewall as possible, there is a reduction in frontal overhang weight, which makes the handling more stable etc Read: Less overhanging weight makes the cars handling more neutral About 12months or so ago there was a guy on here selling an R32 with an SR20DET in it.

If anyone has used the JAYCAR electronic boost controller with the stock solenoid could you please post up your comments on this set up? I think SK used this in a stagea at some stage?

I havent heard of them before, but they're underwritten by Calliden, which is a pretty big company. I'm pretty sure they're on the ASX. They offer agreed value, choice of repairer, premiums by installments, free windshield etc, so looks good.

LOL at that, good call.

They said the price will go up because they said that there will be a fuel shortage, so what do I see when I go to get petrol? Every man and his dog at the servo filling up their cars/4wd's/jerry can's left right and centre, thereby causing a fuel shortage....

The Apexi 'Dry' type pod filter aren't meant to last forever, I think its around 30,000k's or so, then you are meant to by a refill kit. There is someone on here selling the them, just can't remember who.

Air filter, Brake pads, brake fluid, diff fluid, gearbox fluid, noisy or worn belts, wheel allignments, wheel balancing, inspection and replacement of worn bushes/shocks/other suspension components etc.

He means a flat spot on one of your tyres from say, the wheels being locked up while braking. This can cause a vibration, but I don't see how it could create the noise you are describing? IMO: Don't take it to the dealer to get it checked out, if its a hard fix problem, they don't want to know about it. Take it to bridgestone or something, get them to check it all out, then take the results to the dealer and say: FIX!

Hey mate just quickly, I'm assuming this is a road car yeah? Not only that but also someone has mentioned what colour your car is? And i'm assuming that is your cars rego in the ID number on the dyno graph (and file name), AND it has your name on the Dyno graph, AND you're telling everyone reading this forum you have a gutted cat? Hmmmm.... Dude I might be wrong, but for your own sake at least black out your rego details if those three letters and numbers are indeed your rego details.

Aparently Iridium is a barely natural occuring element on earth and most of the stuff we use was brought here by some big ass meteor ages ago.... kool. I want some ruthenium plugs apparently used in plane engines... BTW check this out, its pretty cool: http://www.4x4review.com/quads/tech/SparkPlugs.asp

Alot of questions answered here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm Iridiums are just on the outside of the electrode with copper in the middle. Iridium, like platinum, is meant to resist fouling better than copper... apparently. So correct me if i'm wrong but this is how I understand it, pure copper plus would in effect work better than any platinum/iridium plugs out there, but their life span is shorter than iridium/platinum. So they'd be good for drags/trackwork/everyday work if you keep an eye on them and change them regurlarily?