insu

Hey man, great site. Thanks a bunch. -Insu

Hey gang, I was wondering if anyone knew of any good sites where I could download some *.jar games to my Nokia 6280 as I'm getting a little more than bored with the standard games in there. All I can seem to find by searching the net are a whole heap of pay sites. Thanks guys -Insu

Try running some searches, there have been a fair few threads on this topic. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=102395&hl=

I can recommend dan (ELITE RACING) I get him to do all my work now, he's extremely knowledge-able when it comes to the line, and also very reasonably priced.

Not forgetting that some R33's are getting to be 13 years old now, those numbers you see for the qtr mile quoting were often done when the cars were near brand new. Having said that, I had: R33 Gts-t, 93'. Catback exhaust, apexi pod and lightened flywheel. My first time at the drags ever, I had three runs and my best was a 14.4. I was plenty stoked with that time, to be honest I really wanted to beat 14.5 so I was happy. I'm sure with more practice the I could have run better, but yeah. My 2c is that driver ability is going to give you your greatest time advantage at the track.

Hey man, apologies, credit where credit's due. I just remembered following the post about the fault with the A-Lsd (As I have one in my car, but my ecu is still standard), and remember Paul copying it to his link on FAQ on A-Lsd's.

I've said what fluid it uses. As for bleeding it why not run a search?

Hey man, I'm really not sure, I'm also not 100% sure if this is the method for setting the idle on the R32 GTR, (As far as I know just the Gts-t). You might want to post your problem somewhere else in the site, like general mat, you should get some more helpful responses!

In the bottom left hand corner of the pic you have there, if you look closely, you'll see there is a screw inside. That is the adjustment. It looks like you still have the plastic over that side of the ECU, which is there to protect the controls, you should be able to peel it back to gain access to the screw. Guys after talking to a few people, most say that the idle adjustment on the computer is hardly ever nessecary, and is only for tiny adjustments. If everything is working fine, the adjustment on the AAC screw should be fine. aac.bmp

Check fluid in a space in the boot on the right hand side, you'll see a little canister behind a little clipped on segment. The fluid it takes is power steering fluid. As for the microtech, this might be causing the problem, from memory the A-Lsd computer requires a signal from the ECU that aftermarket computers generally don't give and have to be modified to suit. Here I've run the search for you, check this link out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=107656 Now I realise that you don't have a power Fc, but the premise behind the solution should be the same for the microtech.

Yes skylines can have an A-lsd light. It means you have an active spec LSD version of the skyline. Run some searches there's a shipload of info on this site about the A-Lsd. As for it intermitently turning on. Do you have a power-fc? If you do I strongly suggest you look at the signature of a guy on here called PaulR33 as this is a fault that happens with the A-lsd failing and power fc's, but he's got the cure (read: DIY) to fix the problem. If you don't have an Power FC. Perhaps a fault with your abs sensors or the computer itself, or the hydralics, or a lack of fluid?

Hey gang, I guess the title outlines it. I'm after a working TPS off of an R33 Gts-t S1 thanks. Please PM if you have one for sale, and we'll work something out. cheers -Tom

Hey gang I'm chasing in working order a TPS to suit an R33 S1 Gts-t. Give me a price, I'm thinking around the $25-30 mark from others i've seen selling for. I've got money and i'm ready to pay now, I'd prefer the Brisbane area so I can get it ASAP but thats not 100% necessary, so I will accept interstate offers. Just PM me. Cheers all. -Tom

Hey man, are you saying that there is a chance that the disintegration is only the boot protecting the actual joint not the joint itself? Sorry excuse my ignorance, I just didn't know if there was a boot protecting the joint or it was all just a joint in there. Thanks Think I'll take my car to a reputable suspension shop. Last place I took it to said there was nothing wrong whatsoever, and that was around 2 weeks ago. Maybe Fulcrum...

Hey gang, Fairly recently I've noticed my car (r33 gtst) has started to develop a slight vibration through the steering at all speeds. Its not a side to side, but a vibration just through the wheel. Secondly, when a turn a corner left my car is fine, but if I turn a corner right with any sort of speed or too sharply I get this clunk from the front left of the car. I got sick of this and decided to jack the car up and see if could locate the problem. Now I checked just about every bush/connection/screw I could find, but to be quite frank I don't really know what I'm looking at. What I did notice is that on the left hand side what appears to be the tie rod end? Seems to be deteriorated. The right hand side seems fine though. Now firstly, i'm not sure if this is even the tie rod end so I have attached photos of both the good and bad side below. Secondly, could anyone tell me if this is even damaged or is it just a cover which is damaged etc? Thirdly, could anyone tell me if this would account for the things I have been experiencing above. Lastly, could anyone tell me roughly what I should expect to pay to replace this part? I offer my thanks to anyone with some information. Cheers The bad bush on the left hand side: The Good one on the right: Apologies for the quality of the images also, my camera doesn't seem to like to focus properly

Also if you're willing to pay a little more to not have to do as much to fit one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=85375&hl=bosch

You'll find that the problem with the walbro's seem to be that they are designed to flow their max amount at a voltage higher than that of the standard wiring loom. If you sort that problem out, they should be good. There isn't really that much you have to do to get them to fit, but you will need to do things like, replace the pick-up sleeve, lines from the sleeve to the pump, wiring, making the unit fit the bracket properly etc. Alot of people seem to disregard the ecu controlled downstep in voltage on idle to reduce the amount of flow the pumps produce when idling, and just wire the pump straight in. Check it out man, search button's you friend!: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=67683&hl=bosch

Why would you bother going with another R32 pump or a recond one, when like you said for another $100 or so you can get a pump that is easily capable of handling that power, plus you know it won't crap out straight away, plus leaves room for more power upgrades in the future? You may very well be able to support those mods and power from an R32 unit, but wy risk it? Better to go for a bit of overkill when it comes to fueling. Completely up to you though, just what i'd do though. FYI on ebay they range in price from $160 to $220 for a 040 http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dl...tle22=bosch+040 $215: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...110033&hl=bosch $200: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...119912&hl=bosch $275 for a 044: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...118625&hl=bosch $179 Walbro: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...83622&hl=walbro

Don't bother with getting a recond fuel pump. Just get a new one, check out the group buys section there's usually some buys going on for bosch 040's, 044's or walbro's etc.

Intake plenum is the chamber thats located between the throttle body and the intake runners. It allows an even distrubution of air between all the cylinders. No they are not only used on turbocharged engines. But an N/A car doesn't nessacarily need one if it has individual intake throttles or old cars with carbys don't have a need for one, just an intake manifold. Any modern car n/a or other with a single throttle will have an intake plenum leading to the intake manifold (or alltogether) of some description.

Funnily enough I've read a few stories here (in brisvegus) about pipes cracking all around the joint due to lack of lubrication (moisture) from water constantly flowing through them, due to people being so conservative with their water usage. The net effect being the money saved goes into repairing the pipes.

If its a 33 gts-t the coldstart valve is located under the throttle body. Just trace the idle bypass pipes from the inlet pipes further up the intake to the AAC on the back of the inlet plenum, and out of there to the coldstart valve. As for the R32 Gtr, I am unsure.

No you don't have to put up with it, its a fault. A fairly common one at that, so have a search, there is alot covering this. from your description however, i'd go with a faulty cold start valve.

Don't sweat it, you'll find everyone on here is most helpful if you're can't find the answer to your problem from searching from it. If you don't know how to use certain functions etc, don't feel bad asking.

He meant to run a search on the site as this has been covered a fair few times before. Here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...oost+controller http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...oost+controller http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=114474&hl= http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=98346&hl= That should be enough info from a quick search.