insu

Sorry to bring this up, but in the interests of my own self promotion I can't hold back. Your quote was: 'P.S. No one should discount this product until proven otherwise, the KKR turbo's were mocked repeatedly, now they have partly proven themselves, some keyboard mechanics should shut the f**k up' And this was in a location where preceeding it there were 3-4 pages of posts where there wereno bad comments written about these turbos, infact the only comments written which were not relating to the product being good were posts from paulr33 and SK discussing the merits of examining all your options (BB turbos etc) before making your choice. So you could see how I misunderstood you as meaning they were the 'keyboard' mechanics discounting the product as, as far as I could see there was no other comments relating negatively to the product in anyway. I apologise to everyone in this post for bringing this up here in this thread as it is off topic, I just wanted the chance to explain myself. I'm sorry for any misunderstanding this may have caused between us Bobjones, my previous post obviously came out the wrong way, I wasn't trying to discount anything you had said at all, I was mearly trying to point out that there were healthy arguments on both sides about the issue of types of bearings used in turbos (Which from my own fault, as I posted above, misunderstood you to be refering to posts made by paul and gary) Consider the bridge built and used.

That is correct, your pics aren't showing up dude.

Yes newbie rating, moves through rb20det->rb25de->rb25det etc as you post. As for the mirror, could be either a wiring fault, fault with motor in the mirror or something preventing the mirror from closing (something jamming it). Firstly, i'd look and move it manually and see if there is anything stuck there. Secondly, i'd get someone to press the button while I listened to the mirror to 'hear' if its trying to close. If you can't hear anything it means either bad wiring or dead motor: Solution: pull it apart and run a multimeter through the wiring (where the motor connects in, just complete the circuit) when pressing the button to see if you get a voltage. If you do, its the motor thats stuffed. If you don't its the wiring and you need to find the break or short. If you can hear the motor trying to move it either means the mirror is jammed open (something stuck) so you should find out what it is and remove it, or it could mean that the motor is trying to do its job but its somehow burnt out, and you need to get a new one. Happy troubleshooting.

Yeah I'm happy with getting my lightened flywheel from extreme. It works pretty well with the C&B clutch kit, and its perfect for me for the amount of power I have. Basically the lightened flywheel just makes the car so much easier to drive and more rev happy. It also seems to come on to boost a little faster, I guess this is because the car goes through the rev range quicker. Oh and don't worry about whether or not the combo is streetable or not, I had all sorts of people telling me it was going to be a pig to drive, but in actual fact its a dream. You wouldn't know it had a lightened flywheel after a week of driving and you're used to it. Check out the post I made to the link I made about my experiences with the clutch dude, its all in there. I think I got a pretty good deal for a heavy duty clutch kit+lightened flywheel+install for just over $1k.

Some stuff to think about: http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/867 http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/942 http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/464 (This one above looks like really good value for money atm for the RB engines. http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/459 http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/btlist2....ubtype=Clutches

You shouldn't have any problems with upgrading your flywheel to a lighter type at the same time you change your clutch. As Wogboy said above, try Extreme, it who I went through and I did similar to what you're doing here. I got the C & B clutch kit (organic) and an Extreme 4.8kg flywheel for my R33 gts-t. All up it ended up costing me $1,060 installed. Thats: $320 for the clutch kit $470 for the flywheel And $270 for the install. Here is the link to my post about it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=102395&hl= Another option you might want to look at seeing as you want to change your clutch and flywheel at the same time is a multi-plate type clutch as the flywheel is built into these units. They tend to be more progressive and have a larger clamping force (which can be distributed over two or three plates, rather than one) The only real downside is they tend to have a slight chatter in neutral. Remember don't be put off by the price of some of the kits, they include the flywheel! Don't forget that! -Insu

Argh, stop typing in caps!

This is the more commonly found co contact cleaner, and I'm sure would probably be just as good: CO Contact Cleaner Plastic Safe Formula is a technically proven, stable, inert high purity cleaning solvent. Non-corrosive, non-staining, rapid-complete evaporation - contains no lubricants. Removes light contaminants, dust, lint, atmospheric/oils, finger prints, moisture from precision electrical/electronic equipment where lower-flashpoint solvents may be used. Leaves no residue to increase resistance. Use as a touch-up supplement for vapour degreasing. CO Contact Cleaner Plastic Safe Formula used in a planned maintenance programme will eliminate carbon deposits or contaminants that hold moisture and cause corrosion or arcing. An increase in resistance will indicate the frequency of re-application. Use CRC CO Contact Cleaner for cleaning: Relays, switches, circuit breakers, alarm and signal systems, printed circuit boards, connectors, generators, contacts, laboratory and test equipment, video heads/drums, terminals, plugs and jacks.

This is the specs for the NF contact cleaner, about the best one you can get and the one i'd get: CRC NF Contact Cleaner is a technically proven stable, inert high purity cleaning solvent, designed to meet today's environmental challenges. This new improved formula is chemically stable, evaporates rapidly, has no flash point and leaves no residue. Use NF Contact Cleaner for cleaning: PC Boards, Edge connectors, motor and motor controls, contacts and relays, metal switches, sensors, flux removal. When CRC NF Contact Cleaner is used on lubricated rotating, sliding or stepping contacts it is recommended to apply CRC 2.26 to replace lubrication. CRC NF Contact Cleaner Revolutionary Precision Cleaning Solvent. Instantly removes grease, oil, dirt, flux and other contaminants. Chemically stable, non-conductive, non-corrosive. High purity formula evaporates rapidly and leaves no residue. Strong cleaning action for removal of flux and oils and others contaminants. No Flash Point. Non flammable. Does not contain CFC 113 or Methyl Chloroform. May be harmful to some plastics, e.g. A.B.S. Pebax 2533, Polystyrene etc. Test on small area before using.

Gapping down the spark plugs is a cheap fix, it just makes the spark work across the plug because the path of least resistance again becomes the spark plug, rather than the block where the coilpack usually arcs out when they're not working properly. By gapping down the spark plug you're reducing the area of burn and this can be seen as an inefficent use of burning fuel. In the long run, you're much better off changing coil-packs and running the gap as close to 1.0 as you can.

Or CRC contact cleaner, which is designed to clean electrical components and not leave any residue.

Hey gang, just fixed up a few things, and added the gasket the gasket part number into the DIY, thanks all.

You should be able to purchase a blank gasket sheet from pretty much any car shop, and trace out the gasket you need from the AAC assembly face, or trace off the old one. I've heard of people using cardboard as gaskets.... but why bother, when the real deal is so cheap?

Who would that be? SK? or PaulR33? I wouldn't be calling them keyboard mechanics.... The purpose of this post and forum is to promote open discussion and information, from all sides. I havent heard anyone say that these turbos were shit, all I've heard is people's opinions, own trials and information they've provided, ultimately it is each persons own choice to choice their turbo for their own uses. If anything I'd say most people have had positive feedback, and that's a good thing.

Do you have a dyno graph with your afr's?

looking good dude

I think everyone's getting a little too riled up here, I don't think SK and PaulR33 are meaning to say that this is a bad turbo by any means, its just a case of you get what you pay for. I'm not trying to shut Slide down or his product, i'm sure its very good value for money and it sounds like it is. Its just that when you think about building an overall package, depending on what you're aiming for the car to achieve, its best to choose the turbo suitable for that application. As has been said her a few times, Garret is a huge company that has been in the turbocharging game for a long time, when you're buying a turbo from them, you're not just buying some bits of metal, you're buying the R&D as well, so you'd expect the turbo to spool faster, be more efficient and have a longer life. If I were thinking of upgrading my turbo (and i'm not just yet), the first thing i'd be doing is ringing Garret and talking to them about what I want my car to aim for (power wise, response wise, track, drift, qtr street etc) and build a whole package around it with the correct ancillaries (i'm sure I spelt that wrong) like intercooler, suspension, management, fuel issues etc. Hmm i'm not sure if I made any point here, i'm not on any side, i'm just giving my 2c I guess.

Sacrilege!! I'll pretend I didn't hear that.... All the guys who have posted back to you here are Gts-t's, you need to run some searches, there has been alot said about the R32 gtr's fuel consumption. From what i've read anyway, depending on the car, its not uncommon to see anywhere from 200-400k's out of a tank. Pretty big descrepency huh?

Hey if you don't mind i'll add that part number into my main post. Did he give you a rough price too by any chance? Thanks

It could also be a vacuum leak. If your idle screw is completely closed, there is definatly somewhere else that air is entering into the inlet manifold. As was said above, my bet would be on the cold start idle control, or a vac leak, or for some reason a malfunctioning AAC assembly, where it is sitting open far too much when idling. Try disconnecting the power to the AAC assembly, that should close it and give you an idea of where the leak is comming from. The car should stall if the AAC valve is faulty and opening too much, when you unplug it. If that doesn't work, try pinching the bottom hose that runs past the AAC on its way to the cold start, if the idle drops when you pinch the hose = less air = stall, then thats your problem. If that still doesn't work, check all your lines for tears or holes. Check all your gaskets on the inlet manifold, and check your throttle plate is properly closing.

You answered your own question, by its very nature to keep the engine and turbo running after the keys have been removed from the ignition, it needs both a positive and negative signal (constant). I would splice off the cig lighter, or use a multi meter and find an appropriate wire. It shouldn't be hard, just put it on dc, ground the negative probe, and probe the appropriate wires in the area your looking at to find a 12v (prob come across as around 13v) signal. Once you've found one, turn the ignition off and see if the voltage dissapears, if it does, viola!

Skyline specific area.

I'm reasonably sure that the RB25's lifters are self adjusting. Oh and BTW michael, i'm not sure if I mentioned it, but the downside to using to high a viscous oil on start up can be that the oil it harder to move and takes longer to fill the lifters, which can be worse. So don't go to thick. Also, there are other things that can cause a ticking when the engine is cold such as a crack in the exhaust manifold that expands and closes once the car is warmed up etc...

Hey Micheal, sorry I didn't post back. I've been away on hols. Plus i'm trying not to hiijack this thread, but it looks like its too late for that so: Now i'm not a mechanic so don't take this as gospel, but basically, skylines use hydralic lifters which as the name suggests, uses oil to fill the lifter. When yoy stop your engine any one of your lifters on the camshaft lobe is under pressure of the valve spring; therefore a leak from the chamber can occur. This is normal, and if you haven't driven your car for say 3-4 days and start it up, you'd expect to hear lifter noise for about 10 seconds or so as the fluid fills the lifters. Now as a car gets older and the engine wears its normal for tollerances to become larger, that is why as your car gets older its a good idea to change the viscosity rating to suite the current condition of the engine. Basically the older the engine the thicker the oil. From the factory skyline ran a semi-syn at 7.5w, most guys on here (and it sounds like you too) Run a 5w fully syn, which is fine and probably better for the engines internals and turbo etc. But if you're really concerned about your cold weather starts on the lifters, you might want to consider running a slightly thicker oil, say 7 or 10w as this oil might take a fraction longer to reach the galleries, but fill them and operate a higher viscosity from start thus filling the lifters faster. Beware though, because this might not fix your problem, there is always the chance you have problems with sludge build up, either in the oil pick up sleeve, or galleries. This can cause oil starvation until enough oil finally enters the lifters for them to work properly. This is probably less likely though. I'd get in my car and start it cold and keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge and see if it shoots up pretty much straight away. If it does you'r oil pressure should be good, and at least you know thats not really the problem, if it delays or stays low and takes a while to raise in pressure, this would suggest a worse problem then just clearance issues. In the end, your mechanic should be able to advise you on the best cause of action for your car, obviously there could be other factors. It might be an idea to leave your car with them overnight so they can to a true cold start and see how the car behaves. Hope all this jibberish helps, and again as I said i'm not a mechanic. Sorry to Topaz btw for hijacking this thread. -Insu

Oh, I see from your post I missed RB-30 that you got your details from the nissan service manual, I might have to have a gander of this again, and fix up the errors in the DIY.