R32 TT

Hmm, thanks guys, I'll check for both. I would have thought though that anything 'touching' and shorting would blow a fuse.. But hey, not ruling anything out at the moment. DVS JEZ are you talking about inside the engine bay nearby fusebox?

Hey Robbie, Frustrating isn't it... I still have not had a chance to look at the car in any detail due to holidays and people like, y'know, family, getting in my way! Hoping to get onto it soon and will def write back here what I find when I find it. I do have an immobiliser and this is a good place to start I think. I haven't tried diagnostics simply because there is very little left that the std ECU is controlling - motec now has that job but the only thing its been able to tell me is that power goes missing! (duh!).

Nice Setup. Which brings me to a question - what is the general thought on mounting the pump or pumps in-surge-tank. ie in the surge tank immersed in the fuel? I have a 044 in tank (main tank) and it runs almost silently, I assume it stays relatively cool and free from corrosion being in fuel. Certainly when you take the 15 yr old stock pump out it looks brand new, as does all the wiring/fittings etc. Any reason people don't do this other that it being (maybe) more complex? And also, rather than running duel 044's, is no one running big single pumps like Fuelab, Weldon etc? I'm looking to do E85 setup soon and so looking at all these options.

If you don't restrict the pressure getting there it can fill the oils drains too fast and fill right up to the exit of the turbo - at this point the 'pressure' has to go somewhere and gets past the turbo seals (usually the exahaust side). Hence tons of smoke. So its important not only to have a restrictor, but also large and free flowing drains to the sump.

2860's do/should come with restrictors built in. Just to make sure we're talking about the same turbo, they should have a badge on them with a part number. It should have 707160 on there, and then some sort of number after that. e.g. if its 707160-7 or 707160-5 then this is what people are referring to when they talk about -7's and -5's... The restrictor they come with factory is a 1.2mm. There is an option to fit a 0.8mm. I fitted these since I have only 1 oil drain on an RB26/30 and also run a Tomei oil Pump. Below is what the restrictor's look like out of the turbo. You can see the small 0.8mm hole on the side of it (which is not visible when fitted in the turbo, at least not easily) And the pic of it fitted to the turbo shows it's top. So have a look as see if you have this in there.

So how about Redline 10-40 then? Problems with this and e85?

Aaaw crap... Sorry to hear that mate...

Well, I've looked over them and looked for anything obvious yes. I've tried pulling/pushing on them with engine running etc, but can't get anything to fault. Yes, could be - I just thought that that kind of thing would almost certainly take out a fuse? Yep, dead right. On this particular occssion it was very diffent because it went on/off/on like that.. Engine lost all power, but 'sort of' kept running, backfired, ran rough, stalled etc. Remember I still had road speed and was using the clutch to keep it going as best I could to get it across the finish line. In the past it has just been a plain cut for a second or two and then bam, power comes back and stays. The first few times it did this I thought it was low fuel / fuel surge. But it ain't that. You're a good man Trev, and I might still take you up on it. Just trying to get some ideas to check in the meantime.

Just as a point of interest. And Koyo radiator aside for a moment, you'll likely find that the 'cooler temp' going to Water Wetter is due moreso to the fact that you are using only distilled water, since plain water is better at getting rid of heat that typical glycol coolant. One thing that 'can' throw you though, is if you add Redline Water Wetter to a Water only setup, you may see the temp actually increase slightly. This is actually the Water Wetter doing its job. It is becoming more effective at 'wetting' at the very hots parts in the cyclinder head, rather than boiling and losing contact with those surfaces. So it actually draws more heat out from those places and hence you may notice a 'increase' in temp at the actual temp sensor. But this is ok, it then goes on to the radiator to be cooled again obviously. Point is, don't rule out Water Wetter being a good thing even if the temp stays the same or goes up a little.

May as well add a couple of pics to show this 6 bolth one as well. Plus this version has 12 teeth which still was plenty to fix the RPM Scatter issue. Note the bracket that holds the Sensor using the sump bolts. If you have a sump adaptor for an RB30, you'll need to have this milled by 10mm to suit. Ross can do it for you. At least I think they can - they unfort forgot to do mine even though I asked them to, but I'll let them off, was easy to do.

Hey guys, hoping for some hints about where to start looking for this. Have an intermittent problem where I appear to have an complete electrical shutdown. Doesn't do it on Dyno or general driving, didn't do it at recent Powercruise. Only does it at a tight circuit sprint event on corners. Sometimes doesn't do it at all! At first I thought it was only right handers, but it has done it going left also.. Has done it once or twice a couple of years ago with previous engine build, car has had plenty of work during that time, and when the latest incarnation of the motor went in, it got new earths etc. If you look at this screen shot of the logs, you can plainly see it losing voltage across and regaining it in quick succession. Doesn't appear to be just power to the Motec either, as when that happened - all my stock gauges were bouncing up and down erratically. So it looks like its 'further up the line'. This pulsing is new - it used to cut right out and then just return a second or so later. This is the first time I have been able to 'log it' since Motec appears to have stayed up long enough to keep logging. I have searched a bit and seen threads about Alternator/fuses/reg etc.. but the problem I have with all this is that if the alternator were cutting out, there is still the battery to keep power. So it must be some sort of open circuit? One thread somewhere suggested you can have a problem with the ignition barrel even? Could it be a particular Relay that anyone knows as causing this kind of symptom? So. Just looking for any brain-storming ideas from you guys who could say what things to check first. Hope to get onto this little gremlin over the christmas break and wanted some ideas and thoughts to make a plan of what to check first.

good to hear. still got to get him out to look at mine, but been too damn busy with work! RB34 eh.. geez, gonna make my 2630 look like a small block...

good to hear. still got to get him out to look at mine, but been too damn busy with work! RB34 eh.. geez, gonna make my 2630 look like a small block...

good to hear. still got to get him out to look at mine, but been too damn busy with work! RB34 eh.. geez, gonna make my 2630 look like a small block...

Ah. I didn't realise the size of the turbo, so yeah I see your point.

...depending on which corner he is talking about.. he could mean 1st and reverse... eh Gav. (and yes, I do hope he reads this..)

hmm... I'm making about the same power as you. Everyone tells me I 'should' be making more too. I'm running -5's and 264 HKS Cams... is 450rwhp really that bad? How is the midrange power? Is the dyno telling the real story?

Just to back this up - I put on the Ross Trigger kit a few weeks back also. Although mine it a 12 tooth setup - I am running Motec and logged exactly the same kind of improvement. Used to get up to 500rpm jitter above 5500rpm.. now its lucky if it jitters more than 30rpm. We also noticed immediately a better/smoother idle. And that was the only change made. For the CAS, we just replaced the trigger wheel for one that has 1 sync slot. Obviously doing crank triggers is nothing new, but its nice to have an off the shelf kit made rather than having to fab something up yourself.

Ballsy little fkrs aren't they... 1 for taking it in the first place and 2 for continuing to drive it for all to see... I honestly hope I see it. It -really- shits me this kind I thing. I guess the thing is not to 'chase' them. Just hang back and follow. They'll stop and get out eventually.

Are you saying people you know have seen it being driven around?? That's gotta suck... If I see it I'll def keep it in sight and have the police on the phone mate. Where was it last seen? And yep, photo would be handy..

Aww what? I keep seeing all these plan layouts of the extended track and I thought it was all go?

I'm mechanically sympathetic... ! Plus I only drive it to the shops.

That's what I like most about you blokes.. always happy to help a nigga out..

Haha! good call.. you need 10??