Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 TT

Members
  • Posts

    752
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by R32 TT

  1. R32 TT

    KSport Brakes

  2. Geez its not enough we have to deal with him 'out there' but now in the Pub as well?? He's probably got some sort of Lambo Mug that allows him to drink faster and be less affected...
  3. Just received a nice bit of CNC'd aluminium to hold the Coils in place. From www.billet.net.au C'mon Dave. You know you want to...
  4. R32 TT

    Ignition Bits

  5. Haha, good to meet you too mate. I'm sorry I missed the after party, but my one remaining kidney probably isn't! Ended up having a few with Newton/Paris etc on the boat instead. Roy can at least be satisfied that he has 'people' out there willing to do his his dirty work. Looks like I'm going to have to do some hard core training at the pub leading up to Tas. y'know.. to stay in drinking shape.
  6. To which you replied to me "Nah... I'm not!". haha - lying bastard! What would your wife say if I didn't at least 'try' to keep the red mist at bay.
  7. About $70US per coil. I will never admit to buying these just to clean up the engine bay.. will never admit it. ever.. ok partly. Lets face it, I had an existing CDI system that was working very well. If there is a performance improvement in these coils over what I had, I doubt 'my' setup would show too much of it. The gains would likely show up on a bigger boost/horsepower car than mine - running methanol, 2bar and so on. But I expect with less connections, the interesting design they use (see website) that hopefully this is neater and more reliable setup. http://www.weaponxperformance.com/catalogv137/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37&products_id=111
  8. Funny you should ask this question today of all days... because I just had my coil-on-plug coils turn up - today! I run Motec CDI and was running an outboard coil with short leads.. It was pretty ugly and as Rob just pointed out, its good to do without the leads. So this is going to be the new config. These coils are 1.4ohm (0.8ohm available), are specifically suitable for CDI and I ordered them with optional adaptors that screw into them and make them able to fit over standard Spark Plug terminals. I am preferably going to find a spark plug with the removeable terminal so I can screw on these coils directly, but at least both bases are covered. Mark from WeaponX was very informative and was happy to answer quite a few questions in detail.. hopefully I didn't annoy him too much, but when you find someone who 'will' answer, its good to get all those burning questions asked! I have been looking for a suitable coil on plug CDI based set up for quite a while (over a 2 years on and off) - getting accurate information on things has been much harder than you would think.
  9. Hi Sam, mate to learn a little more about all this stuff try this page: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/gt_basics.html And indeed the rest of that site has some good info on it that might help you out. Notice also on that page that at some stage (about 4-5 years ago from memory) Garrett changed the way they classified some turbos from T28 to T25. For example the turbo's that I run are often called -5's (or dash 5's) by people on here.. it is short hand for their part number which is 707160-5. The actual turbo 'family' has been referred to both as GT-2860R AND GT-2560R. Mine have GT-2560R written on them. I am not a full bottle on this - so can't be sure this applies to your turbos and I don't want to give you wrong info - but something to keep in mind while doing your research. Isn't it great when manufacturers changes things along the way?? Hope the link above sheds some light on things for you.
  10. Speaking of which - getting closer now... -5's, 3L. 8.8:1 comp, HKS 264 Step2 (10mm lift), headwork but standard valves, Motec ECU and CDI. Hopefully will have a good result - assuming Gav was joking today when he said he loosened some bolts....!@
  11. haha! Bloody hell I hadn't even seen an SL-type.. so that's another one! Have a look at this pic of the RX. Note on the right hand side (as you look at in the photo) it has that angled bracket similar to the one in your photo. PLus it has the sort of 'twin' flat bar at the front like yours. Bride RX type rail I tell you what when I DO get one of these suckers I am going to do a thread on it.
  12. You're a good man! Thanks for taking the time to do that. From the pictures it looks to me like its an Type-RX ? Cheers for that - I'll look for some of those or the MO's as I think they should work too. Yeah if you happen to find the cert -would be interesting to know. Thanks mate.
  13. Awesome thanks mate. Yeah don't pull your seat out or anything... But if you manage to find out what model it is that would really help. I have the sparco alloy side mounts as well. Do the ones you have lock in on both sides of the rail? Ie is it pretty solid when you move and then lock the seat in? If you get a chance would be great to see a close up photo ( but only I it's easy for you ) Cheers
  14. Cool. So can you tell which type you have? did you side mount or bottom mount?
  15. Hi guys, have myself a couple of fixed back seats as per the title. I have side rails for them too. They can be mounted underneath and from the side. So I am looking for a couple of Bride rails to suit. I'd like to maintain the ability to slide them back and forth since I am not the only one who drives. I've seen the Bride MO rails which look like they could be the go. Also seen the IG rails which looks the goods also but perhaps only lock on one side. Anyone had any experience with this and know which rail is the best fit and why? Cheers,
×
×
  • Create New...