R32 TT

Yep, appreciate what you are saying, more pressure, heat, what ever is always more strain on components - but hey that applies to everything we do to these cars doesn't it - especially when you hit the track. Interesting that you point out that the turbo app uses a 1.2bar while the NA uses under 1bar. That to me shows that Nissan determined that the turbo which produces more horsepower and has hotter 'hot spots' requires more control over boiling points at localalised areas in the engine.. but both NA and Turbo probably run at around 85 degrees around town. You wouldn't see the difference on the gauge. Lastly, aftermarket radiator caps are what.. 1.3bar? hardly a massive pressure then. No one is suggesting using 2bar caps. If this small increase in pressure is enough to blow off a clamp then possibly your hoses and clamps needed looking at already ? Bottom line is I agree that putting a higher rated cap on your car isn't going to change it from being an overheating car to a cool running car - but that is not its purpose. I also agree that if its near stock hp and stock radiator hoses that could be years old, I probably wouldn't put one on for street use. Just pointing out that the raised pressure does serve a purpose and maybe shouldn't be overlooked by the OP who is knocking out 500hp.

Not to get too far of the OP's question. But I wanted to ask why you guys think fitting a slightly higher pressure radiator cap is such a bad thing? (Assuming that the radiator and associated hoses are all ok of course) The idea of raising the pressure is not so you can run your car past 110degrees and just have it keep going - it is to raise the boiling point across the entire cooling system. That means at the head and near the combustion chamber and at the turbo etc. ie, your temp gauge may be happily reading 85degrees where the sensor is, but it may be boiling its head off at the 'hot spots' in the engine where the real temps are when punching out 500hp. By raising the pressure, you lower the chance of boiling nearby the combustion chamber. If its boiling, the coolant isn't making contact with those surfaces properly and you not getting efficient cooling where you need it most.. no? This is the same idea behind Redline Water Wetter - to reduce boiling at these points. The gauge reading 85 doesn't really tell the whole story does it?

Whoops! Sorry guys, pretty average of me to post a question and then not reply... Ok, Just trying to go back through my notes on what I found out back at the time. Bottom line is, as JohnnoHR31 points out, the JustJap belt is for the two tensioners at the lower position. I should have known this from the start as I have read this before - but somehow I just read "suits RB26/30" and bought it. I will add though that the guys from JustJap were very good about it and happily refunded me the dollars not only for the belt, but also for freight - which I fully expected to have to pay for. Great service, thanks guys. The belt they supply is (from memory) a Gates T306. This is 150 teeth x 23mm wide. It is in the HSN compound (which as FRY_33 points out) is the strongest, most heat/oil resistant compound. For my application, with the higher mounted tensioner, I needed a 152T as per the guide. In fact for me (and some others) even this is a tad short. I used a 153T and it is the full 25mm wide and in the HSN compound. The part number for that is a Gates T317. The 152T version is a Gates T291, also HSN, also 25mm wide. So bottom line is, when building one of these motors, you obviously want to put the strongest most reliable belt you can find on. Getting a 25mm wide is what you want, and getting an HSN Compound is 'better' than the Chloroprene compound. Both Gates and Dayco offer belts in both types of compounds - so be aware that you should check this out as well as the number of teeth/pitch etc. And for those of you struggling to make a 152T belt fit - there is a 153T ! Cheers

Hi guys. I've just tried a new Gates Belt from Just Jap (Gates HSN 150T) but it doesn't fit. I have a Gates 152T but in the NEO compound (the 'weakest' of the Gates options) and this "just" fits - but I am concerned about getting the best material I can for the belt. Obviously don't want a failure. Looking at the guide and doing searches brings up the Dayco 94407 belt. This is also 152T, 25mm wide. This says it is Chloroprene compound - so not sure how this compares in strength/temp to the Gates Neo. Does anyone know? Then I found another Dayco belt, 94843. This appears to be 153T, 25mm wide and made of the HSN compound, which as far as I can make out is the 'best' compound. I've seen a few threads about people having a little trouble fitting belts at 150/152T, so maybe this 153T belt could be the ticket? It is certainly more expensive than the 94407, so hopefully this indicates it is the superior belt.. Any comments on this one? Anyone know their belt 'compounds' or suggest an even better belt? Here's a couple of links on the two Dayco Belts: Dayco 94407 Dayco 94843

Mate I've bought Ikeya from RHDJapan and get them in around 10 days. Literally just got some traction rods last week and have bought stuff earlier in the year with same kind of delivery time.

Hey Gang, I have a Stilo Carbon Piuma DES Helmet for sale (regrettably..) I bought it and wore it in Targa West 2010 - so its had 4 days of use but is of course more or less brand new. I only purchased it about 2 weeks before the event. The reason for selling it simply that it is just a smidge too small for me - it is a medium, I need a large.. yes my girlfriend is apparently right - I do have a big head after all.. I don't have a photo of it right now, but will post a couple up. It comes with HANS posts fitted - but I have instead fitted it with Defnder posts as this is what I use - but can easily refit the HANS posts of course. Looking for $1700 or serious offer. They are mostly over $2000 new: Here is just one link showing a picture/price: Stilo DES Helmet The helmet is awesome, particularly the intercom - and I will be buying another one (size L) immediately. By the way - I will be competing it Targa High Country in early Nov and so will be using it there (Melb) if this suits anyone to look at it.. otherwise I am based in Perth.

Oh that's right... It was in a James Bond novel I read it!

Some people do this by venting the catch can to the exhaust system. The speed of the exhaust gases suck the fumes from the catch can. If your sump is vented to the catch can this might help create the vacuum you're looking for. I haven't done this myself, am only repeating what I think I have read elsewhere so someone might correct me in this..

.....and how would I run my Aircon compressor then?

I really don't see how a RB26/30 can be any different to a RB26 in terms of oil control. Same head, same restrictors, same oil pump etc... Also I am not sure about all these one-way valves that are being mentioned - keep it open so it can 'vent' as well as drain.. Vent the sump to the back of the head (it may not act as a drain but more likely relieves sump pressure and allows the oil to travel back down to the sump via the factory oil drains more easily). And have a decent drain back from the catch can to the sump. This will act both as a drain when it needs to, and also as another sump vent when its empty. Running too small a restrictor at the front surely can't be good for valve spring temps and valve train in general? I run a 1.5mm front and a big baffled 9L sump and the theory is that even if it does chuck oil out to the catch can it flows straight back down to the sump again.. so who cares. (but yes, avoiding it getting to the catch can in the first instance is the better solution I agree.)

Hmm Isn't the answer about size of restrictor and oil pump pressure answered in those three lines above then? If at high revs and no boost there is only a little then this indicates that the pump and restrictor size are probably ok.... If it suddenly rises when boost comes on, then this says blowby is somehow a factor and you are pressurizing the sump hence the oil can't get back down. Also velocity out the rocker covers must be up at this point which will be a great transport for the oil... Can you get a map sensor on your sump?

Huh?? Same engine (ie same restrictions, clearances etc) means same pressure = same flow. The only way you could have more volume AND same pressure is if you had less restriction. Is it likely its blowby pressurising the sump perhaps? If you've got bucket loads of flow out of your rocker covers its going to take oil with it..

I had something simalar to this and it was hard to find. Ended up being the pickup was collapsing on itself. When you took it out and looked at it, it looked fine, no blockage. But under load it collapsed and created a blockage.. Just a thought you could check. As soon as I found it and replaced it, the pump was perfectly quiet.

Redline 80/140 gear oil. Smooths out low speed shudder and still let's the diff operate and lock up hard.

You'll need a little negative camber to get them truly flush - otherwise the edge of the rim is very slightly outside the guard.. (only slightly though)

My gut feel is that if it were brakes you would feel it at normal speeds. The fact you are only experiencing it under hard braking makes me think it's wheel movement somehow... Ie either suspension or tyre deformation? Toe out will sometimes mAke the car feel twitchy under hard brakes also..

Possibly alignment is out... Worn bushes in the suspension deforming under hard braking?

mmm.. generally if an oil is going to make a difference then it will do so with a few 100m from the workshop... I'd say you have bigger issues unfortuntely mate. You might be better off just sourcing another 2nd hand box perhaps? (always a risk I know..)

yep, Ryan sold me 50mm DMS with the ISC tops and all fitted up nicely.

I'd disagree. Maybe it's the kind that you used? Try using copper grease with shims. This absolutely deleted any noise from mine. I was running DS2500 front and rear at the time and it was so loud I thought it was going to break glass. Fitted the shims with copper grease. Dead quiet. Running pagid rs14s now, still dead quiet.

Hi Alex, I have GT Pro 1.5way (not TT) in mine and its sounds similar to you. Especially on semi-slick tyres - lots of binding up and banging around. While it does lessen a little once run in, it never really goes away. The trick is to change the oil out for an oil with a degree of friction modifier in it. This will smooth the diff up quite a lot and make it far more streetable. When you put your foot into it though, the 16 odd clutches in it will still lock it up - so don't worry, it will still work like a high performance diff. I used Redline 80-140W. But any good gear oil that has a friction modifier would do. The difference was noticable the moment the car was reversed out of the driveway. Serious.

Stock Cams in that car James. Could this be the issue perhaps? When you say "down on power" what are you making? Isn't it making 400+ awhp? .............(the other possibilty is it has pink wheels.. easy losing 50hp and small dose of street-cred..)

Depends on the width of the rim big guy. 22 offset on a 9" rim is different to 22 offset on a 10" rim. For what its worth, I run 18x10" +20 offset. A +22 offset on a 10" rim would put the outside of the rim 2mm further under the guard. (and yep, a 10" rim with +22 offset on a GT-R would look tuff)

Looked like a pretty good day from what I could see.. I was taking rides in the Black V8 next to you guys - I'll have to come out and play at the next one if you'll let me. Some nice controlled drifting from a white R33 that I saw at one point and an R31 with like about 9000 horsepower tearing up its tyres in a straight line? Nice work guys.

errrr.. but in the photos he still has a RB26 cambelt cover on.. and this is one of the main parts that interferes with the bonnet - my engine covers don't hit at all - only the twin turbo badge and the RB26 Cam-belt cover.. How does changing the engine covers help Marko? Am I missing something obvious? Really appreciate that someone has actually told us something though - rather than just dicking us all around.. after all this isn't a secret internal engine mod for more ponies or some tuning secret - its just how to get these thing to fit without cutting the bonnet and another step toward making the car 'legal'.. just what forums are for I would have thought. Any more info other than engine covers Marko?