R32 TT

Ha! I like his 'recirc' idea by putting the little K&N in with the main Airfilter.. haven't seen that before

Ha! I like his 'recirc' idea by putting the little K&N in with the main Airfilter.. haven't seen that before

Termist is probably no longer made, but Work Meister is the go ! Try here: http://www.work-wheels.com.au/products.aspx#product28 Sexy wheels.

.........oh and plus, y'know.. it looks better.. and as everyone knows, fitting something that looks better is good for say.. half a second a lap?

Fair question Rob. It was explained to me a couple of years back that the standard RB26 balancer was probably up to the task, especially since I would most likely not rev the RB30 as much as the RB26.. that made sense to me. Then someone scared me by saying something like "What..? You're not putting a decent balancer on??" So yes, without any 'real' scientific evidence I went ahead and bought one for peace of mind. Its a bit like the "broken N1 Pump" story... I have not broken mine, but now while the motor is out, I am changing to a Tomei purely not to take a chance. Those facts and the fact that some of the big horsepower guys seemed to think they were worth it. In fact I noted in several places people commenting that the ATI were perhaps better than the Ross Metal Jacket.. so I figured if people are picking some sort of diff between two 'high performance' units, then surely both of these are still better than the std item (else why would these guys bother)... Apparently Mark Berry and Russ were throwing belts using the Ross and all probs went away when they fitted an ATI - again - forum info only - so I am not sure of this or not... Last of all, I noted that Balancers can be 'rebuilt' which infers they 'wear out' or become less effective over time.. my RB26 balancer is nearly 20 years old... so I figured time for a new one. Having said that I do know plenty of guys running some good GTR's with the std balancer so.....

Photos sometimes help - and I really need to get into the habit of taking more... sort of a record of all the money I waste... The Label on the box will inpsire you with more confidence Matt.

I went with this one: ATI-917752 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-917752/ Notice its a bit confusing since in their description it says its for 1995-1998... but I think this is just a typo. If you look up that part no on the ATI website you'll see it the 7" 1000hp one for R32. (at least I hope so!!) http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/...s/damnissan.htm

Hey there Matt, I ordered one from Summit only about 2 weeks ago, got here in 5 days using the US postal service option (cheapest option) and all up with freight etc I landed it on my doorstep for $730AUD. I got the 1000hp unit. Not fitted yet, I am running similar HP to you. Summit were really good. They had 6 in stock at the time.

Well then - the carton of beer is back up for grabs if you want it Paul? Simon isn't sharing... will you?

Excellent, thats good to know - I'm looking forward to feeling the difference! The oversize valves thing is simply because I need to re-do the head from ground up anyway.. so I figured the cost of buying and fitting 1mm oversize valves would be not much different to fitting stock size... so it more because I have the opportunity to do it now. Hopefully it will be a useful gain..

Oops! Thanks Steve forgot to mention that I am running twin low mount Garrett -5's. (2860r's) But I am a little confused.. why did you say the turbo makes a difference and then tell me the CR will be fine?

Hey gang, Lucky me has my engine apart and am looking to put in some of the so called "9:1" CP Pistons in. Brad from Spool been helpful and let me know that the pin height is 32.5mm and the dome of the piston is 6mm. So assuming a 0 deck height: Combustion Chamber (guessing at this point) is roughly ~64cc So with a 1.0mm (87mm) head gasket, 86.5mm bore, stroke of 86mm etc - this gives 8.90:1 compression I believe. A 1.2mm head gasket would give about 8.75:1 - but the clearance in the squish area might be getting a little large then (just my opinion, feel free to correct me on this) A couple of questions for those of you that have done this. Has anyone used this combo and managed to squeeze 1mm oversize valves in and run cams with 10.0mm lift? Also, with this compression - what sort of boost would you guys consider safe on 98 pump fuel? Cars purpose is mainly a club/track car with occasional street drive. Would like to see 450-500rwhp on say 1.5 bar max. 8.9:1 ok for this? The previous build looks to be have been running only about 8.0:1 and made 460rwhp... I am hoping this new setup will provide better throttle response and more torque - don't care if it doesn't make any more horsepower - what I had was good.. Any words of wisdom would be great.

I know... He's fitted substantially shorter rods and decked the block 10mm...

What about asking them to supply a larger pulley on the A/C itself to slow it down (new belt required obviously).. is this a viable option? They supply a water pump pulley, why not an A/C one? If they do that, buy 2 and I'll have one.

Can you not just adjust the pressure relief valve on the Nitto to provide less pressure in the first instance? I thought the idea of the higher 'flow' was just so that it could maintain the min pressure required at high rpm - and if you've added oil coolers etc... Does the engine 'need' super high pressure? Still I do like the idea of the regulator, I fitted 0.8mm restrictors to my -5's, but you're right they are damn small and could easily get blocked...

Well to be fair, no matter what you do - you are going to be dropping the motor relative to the wheels.. The head has to come down under the bonnet - therefore so does the block and so does the sump and cv's (unless you can squash the block by 15mm ) So whether you do it at the engine mounts or other ways - its still going to impact on the CV's position yeah? I don't think this is a huge issue if the car is kept at 'reasonable ride height'. Normally when guys lower the car via short springs the CV's have to deal with a bigger change then.. not to mention the changes going on all the time when the car is actually driving around corners under full load on semi's...

Does anyone actually know 'how much' it has to be lowered to clear everything? Is 3mm enough? Or 10mm? Makes a big difference in what is achieveable. ie if its only 3mm, I could see slotting the engine mounts would almost do it.. if its 10mm though......

Chuck that one in number 6 - it tends to run leaner than the rest so a little more fuel there won't hurt

Mate I hope you do! I am right in the middle of getting a new bonnet sorted out and would like to spray it, and put it on. I'm holding off though because I don't want to have to chop it if I don't need to..

I just bought a Tomei Oil Pump from RHDJapan and I'd have to say it was the best experience I've had from any of the 3 I have used. Patrick responded to my emails same day, I was informed the next day my payment had been accepted and 1 week later (yes, just 1 week) I had the Pump arrive... I have purchased from Greenline and Nengun also. For the most part I have had no trouble, though I currently have some ARC parts on order from Nengun since 15th Nov 2009 and still they have not arrived. I understand of course that sometimes their suppliers hold them up and this can happen to anyone, but Nengun haven't been doing a good job of keeping me informed. Luckily its a 'want' part, not a 'need it now' part or I'd be pretty annoyed. But, for those of you who are waiting, they do come through in the end.. so don't sweat it too much. All three deliver. I'll be using more of RHDJapan based on my latest experiences though.