R32 TT

hmm actually having another look at the photo, your block looks a little different to mine Shane.. Series 1 and 2 perhaps? (I don't know the differences) Mine has fittings just next to the drain where I need to put a bolt through. And this is the other prob I have, the bolt can't be turned and tightened up with the fitting in place! The head of the bolt has to be ground off - and then the fitting put it... which of course means the sump must already be on... Excuse the phone photo - but this might show what I am talking about.. (upside down Miss Jane)

Haha! Thanks guys. hmm.. you've thrown an extra variable in there now Scooby... I not only have to come up with a solution, but it has to be flashier than ShaneF's!!! Cheers for the feedback (and photo especially) - at least it confirmed that the sump had to be off to get the fitting in there... was wondering if there was a secret fitting I didn't know about that was perfect for the job. I was thinking of taking the existing plug, welding a dash 8 fitting to it and then drilling it through the centre, that way I'd probably be able to fit and remove it with sump on. But once its in there - I doubt I'll really ever need to take it off anyway.. so off I go to Pirtek I think! Cheers guys!

Really?? I don't know how you got it in there... we (my mechanic and I) were looking at it and figure we have to get the bolt that holds the sump on in there first, and then you can 'turn' and right angle or t-piece as it will run into the edge of the sump etc.. but heh, obviously you've done it. If you can get a picture of it (although I imagine that would be a pain in the as$.) then I'd love to see it.. Have you run it yet Shane? I was going to run a t-piece but a few people have suggested running them separately "just in case"... How do those N1's spool up!?

Hi Guys, Has anyone got any advice/pictures on how to do the fitting to the block for the rear Turbo Drain? Looking at it today its a bit of a pain. It it very close to a bolt which goes through the sump adaptor ans into the sump. This bolt has to be ground down on one side to get at the fitting properly.. On top of that, if the fitting protrudes too far its going to foul on the axle casting... (hope you are following me here...) The front turbo I am draining to a dash 8 fitting on top of the wing of the sump.. so that's no prob.. Anyone got any info or pics of how they have done this with twin low mounts? Cheers!

Same here - look forward to hearing results. I have a 26/30 running -5's as well. But mine is still a few weeks away before the key gets turned. Fngers crossed its gonna be gooooood.

Well, all I can tell you is the specs suggest they are the same. And (finally) I have seen both on the dining room table in the flesh next to one another and they look idientical as far as I can see. The only real difference (which may make some difference) is the casting quality of the HKS seems nicer and cleaner. Less 'dags' on the inside casting and just generally smoother. Perhaps the inside snail is better shaped?? I don't know on that, but all other things looked and measured identically. NB. This was done on a stock standard dining room table. Results may differ in the kitchen or some fancy-schmancy dining room table.

Cheers for that guys. I am running a Performance Metalcraft Sump and a 10mm adaptor plate via SK.. My workshop have decided they're going to pull the sump back off though, weld on a couple of dash 10 fittings and run from the Turbos back to those individually... Or, if the room is tight, we may use the oil return on the side of the block, and just one fitting on the sump... they're a bit worried that it may 'back up' after a few hard laps at the circuit.. Here you can see there is only one oil return on the block (of course). And also you can see the oil return from the back of the head. I figure I may have to fit a couple of more fittings to the sump, just behind the head return line... Geez you guys are running N1's to begin with? They're going to spool ~damn~ quick I bet !

Hi Guys, I suppose there are not too many of you running twin low mount turbos on an RB26/30, but can anyone give me some advice on the turbo returns? The VL Block has only the one oil return in the side of the block. Would this be sufficient to t-piece into and run bloth turbos back to it? Also, what about running a small 'catch can' under the turbos which collects from both turbos and then drains into the block via this one fitting... or is this completely unnecessary...?

True, I'll check out the price - I suppose it can't be that much - but just checking in case someone might have one floating around..

Has anyone got a s/h grill that sits in between the headlights of a GTR R32? I have a new front bar etc, but don't have this part...

Ok well this is killing me.. I've been sitting back watching this thread - keen to see an outcome.. Now I'm all teased and tetchy.. Justin? How the hell is it going?? Is it in yet??? ....I really want to see if one of these is worth it.

Yes this is interesting. I posted a question about restrictors many months ago and got varied results on the answers.. What I can tell you though is that I replaced std GTR turbos with Garrett 2860R (the 707160-7's) and went racing.. 5 laps into it I had blown the oil seal on the front turbo... Whether this was a symptom of another fault - or whether this was due simply to high oil pressure I am not sure.. On the Garrett Website under the FAQ though, it does mention the 'best' oil pressure to have for Ball-Bearing types: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...r/faqs.html#t16 It would be good to be able to measure or regulate the pressure at the turbos - but I don't want to simply fit a restrictor and then under supply them... Anyone know the real answer to this?

Yeah well be careful not to get the Nissan ones.. $17 per stud... do the maths on that...!

I found I definitely hurt the brakes a lot more using semis. The extra grip afforded means holding much more speed into corners and much more 'available braking' before you can lock a tyre. So I guess you can wipe off far more speed (even though you go through the corner faster on semis of course - I think you still disperse more energy/heat as the overall increased speeds and later breaking) Maybe the Porsche had much bigger pads/rotors which would mean you didn't generate as much heat? Its only the heat developed which ultimately kills the pads - so perhaps the DS2500 just had to put up with more rotor temperature?

My RB26/30 is long overdue to be completed so should have it back soon. I'll be using the twin Garrett 2860 (-5 model). Hopefully I'll be able to give you some results. I am hoping it should make a great response car for street/track and make about 500 flywheel horsepower without too much stress.

Thanks for your thoughts guys, I got in touch with PWR to find out more. PWR got back to me saying that in order to make a radiator for the GTR with the intank Oil cooler it would need to be a custom job with horizonal flow so that the tanks are on the side in order to accomodate the oil cooler. The Radiator itself: $930.00inc In-tank Engine Oil Cooler: $460.00inc Spal 16" Thermo Fan to suit: $263.00inc That just leaves the oil lines to be made up. Its not 'cheap'. But then for a custom-made high performance radiator - its not bad either. Certainly when I compare against just buying an HKS Oil Cooler and lines then it actually does look like very good value! I think the fact that it will keep the oil-temps and water temps closer to each other is a good idea, and of course installation will be heaps neater. Thermo fans have given me trouble in the past, but that was many years ago, and maybe that was because they were not correctly specified. Hopefully this one they are matching up will easily keep up. I won't be spending any real time in heavy traffic and anything above 30km/hr won't need it anyway - so probably a good thing. Think I might go for it!

Hey all, I was talking to my mechanic about getting a PWR radiator for when my new motor goes in. (If if ever gets bloody finished...! ) While on the subject, we were also talking about getting an oil-cooler when he mentioned that PWR do "in-tank" versions. His take on it was that not only would this be a really neat solution, that the water can actually help bring the oil up to operating temperature more quickly at start up, ~and~ does a great job of keeping the oil temps down when you're into it. Has anyone had any experience on this? I like it just from the aspect of less crap under the bonnet to deal with as well.

Ah geez Pete - that was you?? I should have come and said hello! I was down there watching a couple of mates (Porsche, WRX and the HSV club guys). You were looking nice a quick down the front straight. We noted the late breaking at the end of the front straight.

...touch some wood.. do it now before its too late!

I am not an expert, but wouldn't blocking all other ports off completely change the dynamics of the particular port you are testing? For example if you are testing port 3 and had ports 4,5 and 6 open as well, then would there be considerable air velocity rushing past port 3 to get to the later ports. And wouldn't this have a vacuum effect at port 3 - almost a scavenging effect from its potential flow? If air takes path of least resistance, then if port 6 is 'easy' and open, other ports will flow less, even though on an individual basis they all flow the same?

Yup, same goes for me too please Duncan. Got any ETA's at this point? Matt.

No that part does not get touched. Only the face that is touched by the pads gets machined. What works easy is simply get a can of black VHT paint, place a rag over the caliper and spray that area (the hat) turn the disc around by hand as you do. If a little bit of overspray gets on the disc it really doesn't matter. As soon as you drive the car the pads will take it off the very second you touch the brake. Ends up looking perfect and the high temp paint seems to hold up ok (looks better than rust anyhow) I used to do this every so often when changing wheels or pads and it keeps them looking good at takes just a few seconds.

Does anyone know if you can buy an ARP 'external' bolt kit for the RB26DETT? ie I'm talking about all the manifold bolts, Alternator, Aircond, engine mounts etc etc.. not internals or head bolts. I think they make kits like this with every conceivable nut and bolt yes? Since the motor has been off the road for a while I expect we're going to have the odd nut&bolt missing - plus its a good opportunity to replace everything with the goodness and shinyness of stainless steel.

True, it may not even be that. But while on the subject, does anyone run any 'engine kill' devices that detect low oil pressure and cut ignition to help save the motor? Is there a separate device like this available? A light on the dash doesn't give much time to react when at high revs, but perhaps a sensor to trigger ignition kill would be the go...

Well...... ask R33_racer ? I guess if a N1 pump is circa $500 and the Reimax internals is similar - then you have a $1000pump all up - which is still on the cheaper side of things like Nismo, JUN and Tomei - but without the 'problems' of a high volume pump?