R32 TT

Has anyone looked into/used one of these? http://www.reimax.com/eng-oiln1.html Apparently replacement internals for the N1 pump explicitly to strengthen it. Would this be best of both worlds? ie not a High Volume pump - so no problems with too much oil being pumped up to the head, and fixes the arguable strength of the N1 Pump...

ouch, ouch, ouch... really sorry to hear that. Plus it makes me nervous... Very interested to hear if its related to N1 breakage...

DS2500's are a great 'all round' competition pad. I run them on the street also, but I would probably vote them as being more of a short track/circuit pad than a full time street pad. You CAN run them on the street all the time, they feel ok, but they whine and carry on a bit when cold which some people find annoying.. ie sounds a bit like a train pulling up.. ~squeeelll~ If you are on the street all the time, not doing any circuit work or anything - I would probably recommend Bendix Ultimates or even Performax? Cheaper, less noisy - still work well for one or three hard stops. Even Ultimates can sometimes have a little squeal though.. seems to be on a car by car basis to some degree.

Just drive your car to the dodgiest looking suburb in town... kick back in a deck chair a good 50m or so away, crack a beer and wait. Some locals will come along and have them off in a jiffy! ...important to stay alert though... so not TOO much beer... (boy that caught me out once)

I would ~love~ to be able to try both.. trouble is no wants to loan me turbos - go figure... I'LLLL KICK YOUR A$$ !!!! oopss.. sorry.. just my naturally competitive nature plus a little Tourettes syndrome possibly.... Actually its a pity we're not in the same town - you can only really tell when you 'drive' each other car. But hopefully the Dyno will probably give us an idea. Be good to compare for sure. Mmmm... boost at 3000rpm... giddeup!

Cheers for the responses (no pun intended) guys. That settles it then. Twin 2530's it is. And frankly - I can't wait. (just hope the gearbox copes!)

Hey Cubes, I'm not sure what you're saying: Do you mean Don't be concerned about the response? ie Go for the GT-RS since I won't see anything below 3500rpm with either combo? Or do you mean Don't be concerned, if 2530's make the power goal I am after then just get those. And how come you say I won't get them going under 3500rpm anyway? To exaggerate for a second - if I put GT-SS on a 3Litre (not that I would), wouldn't you think I'd see full boost under 3500rpm? If I manage to get 2530's on near to full boost by 3500rpm and go to 7000rpm and make 550-600hp I think I'll be a very happy camper - but maybe that's a little wishful... tempting... Seriously, do you think they would be 'too responsive'? I'm used to a supercharged V8 which is more or less instant response and you just control that with your right foot. I would have thought it would be great? I'm not going for fuel economy here...

Well mine is nearly done.. so time to actually buy the Turbo's! The question of going between 2530's and GT-RS has been a question I just can't answer for the last few months... and I'm getting very close to D day... I'm still leaning to 2530's... also keeps the power down away from the 700 odd that the GT-RS will most likely make (= break things)

Anybody has experience with HKS 2530's (or Garrett 2860r -5's) on an RB26/30? Aiming for sooper-dooper response (e.g. Mines car) and say 550-600hp at the flywheel. I want to keep twin low-mounts. I know they are perhaps 'small' for the 3 Litre. Intended use is for a weekend street car - bit of street - lots of short track/hillclimbs/motokhanas etc. Achievable? Anyone actually running this combo?

dude... you're out to dinner? I want you to stop eating. Get up from your chair (excuse yourself of course...) and go to the bathroom. In the bathroom, you will find a mirror. Go up to that mirror - look yourself straight in the eye and say: ".. I have a problem .." Its the first and hardest step to recovery...

I've heard from a separate source that he has seen N1 pumps fail and he attributes it to the material used in the N1 Pump coupled with the used of Launch Control and/or Anti Lag etc.. The chattering essentially breaks the internals? Is that the case? But I'm also lead to believe that any of the other Pumps, be they Tomei, Nismo (different to N1?), JUN or what have you, all flow too much volume and end up filling the cam covers with oil (despite all the restrictors and back-of-head drains to sump etc...) Is the Tomei Pump not externally adjustable? And is this 'enough' to tone it down for circuit? I imagine the problem doesn't happen so much in a 10sec drag car as it does in Targa like events.. Has anyone tried uprating the internals of the N1 Pump to better material? This link suggests there may be an option? http://www.reimax.com/eng-oiln1.html

Yup, I afraid its still in there guys. Got it just now as I clicked to read this thread...

Hi guys, Just in case it helps, the offending file that McAfee pointed at was called 0day.htm This file goes to http://196.regvista.com/0day.htm Maybe this would help to sniff it out? Immediately after McAfee finds it and cleans it, McAfee is disabled! And there is a c$#@load of hard drive activity for several minutes.. Cheers, Matt.

Got it today at work after the site had been down... and just got it now at home. Each time my McAfee seems to have caught it, although there is a HEAP of HDD activity for quite some time and the computer slows down... (and no, I wasn't running a virus scan) So something still creepy in there guys, M

Ah see now I'm glad this came up. Its been a question on my mind for a while since I see GTR's running 245/45/17's yet they came out with 225/50/16's.. correct me if I am wrong but isn't it calculated like: 225 * 50% = 112.5 112.5 x 2 = 225mm overall tyre height (top and bottom) then add 16*25.4 = 406.4mm overall rim diameter to reach a total of 631.4 diameter wheel. Whereas for a 245/45/17: 245*45% = 110.25 110.25 x 2 = 220.5 plus 17*25.4 = 431.8 makes an overall diameter of 652.3mm So it looks like the 245/45/17 is about 20mm (or nearly an inch) bigger in diameter... Though I suppose this won't change the ratios a great deal... it will lift the height by another 10mm? How do you get 808 revolutions per kilometre?? Isn't is more like 480ish?

SOLD !

Hi guys, as the title say, looking for a genuine r32 GTR front bar. N1 slots preferable if possible. Any around?

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say.... it will be MORE than 443AWKW! ..actually I'll be very interested to hear how much difference there is in lag Paul. I know this won't be too much of an issue for you since you're primarily drag racing. I am having a RB26/30 built and have been told the 2530's might be a bit small, and to go for the GT-RS. In fact, they say that the 2530's would "limit me" to about 600hp. But with 443awkw, it sounds like you are proving the 2530's can go more. A lot more.. wouldn't that be around 700 flywheel hp or more?

Heya Roy, Just in case... have you looked at using plain Distilled water and Redline Water Wetting agent? A bit of a read, but this white paper is interesting if you haven't already seen it.. (2nd link) http://www.redlineoil.com.au/product-infor...asp#waterwetter http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downl...0TR%2002_03.pdf It might be enough to get you over the line keeping the same radiator?

From my research, it looks to me as Lucien suggested: That the R34N1 are more or less the same spec as the HKS GT-SS. Now remembering that both of the above are based on a Garrett Turbo, The version of Garrett GT2860r that I bought is the "-7", and I got this because it had more or less the same specs as the GT-SS. I've recently gone back to the Garrett Website and now find that they have actually mentioned that these are indeed the "OEM on Nissan RB26DETT used in Skyline R34 GTR N-1..." You can see it here: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm Read the little blurb on the left... ...and yes - they are an excellent turbo I think.

Yup - that's true. The 707160-7 is the smaller of the three and is equivalent specs to the HKS GT-SS turbos. The 707160-5 is the equivalent specs to the HKS 2530's. If you look on the Garrett website, you'll see they mention both the 707160-5 and the 707160-7 (but not the -10 for some reason - but as you have seen they do exist) The other thing that confuses people is that these turbos used to be called GT2560r, whereas now they are referred to as GT2860r since Garrett changed their naming conventions.. so don't be put off if someone refers to these as GT2560r. You can see all this info on these links: 707160-7 http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm 707160-5 http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm And this link shows you the change in "naming" from GT25xxx to GT28xxx http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre.../gt_basics.html But yes, to answer your question, mine are the 707160-7 because I wanted faster spool up. Hope all that makes sense! I did a fair bit of research on all this when I was buying them.

Hi mate, I've got 2 or 3 left. $50ea. Just PM me if interested and I'll give you details of how to get to me. Cheers, M

A couple of bites - but still no dollars. These turbos are still for sale guys.

Yes well this is what I went through in trying to determine the 'best' cams for my application. SK recommended to me that for my application I should try to get cam's duration of about 260-264 degrees. That the duration of the cam more or less dictated the useable rev range. I want mine for varied use from street to hill-climbs, motorkhana and circuit. (less so for drags) So 260-264 seems about right. Then I was going to go "as higher lift" as I could in that duration - and so I found that Tomei did 260degree cams with 10.8mm lift. (there are bigger lift cams, but you also need more duration to be able to get them) However! Its seems that to do this, Tomei make them to a smaller base circle and you require to get specific buckets (followers, lifters - whatever you call them) as well. Basically going over 10.3mm lift seems to increase the complications somewhat and require these extras. see here: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...ifter_rset.html So instead I opted for the HKS cams that have standard base circle, 264 degree duration and 10.0mm lift. This is all going on an Rb26/RB30 combo - and now I just need to make my mind up about the turbos to suit. DiscoPotato03 - have you seen/heard of the Garrett 707160-10? Looks like same specs as HKS GT-RS (although HKS may have some advantages?) Far cheaper than the HKS though - and might be just the right choice for an RB30?

er.. but the boost control solenoid can only "add" boost, not reduce it? The actuator on the Turbo is factory set to about 8 pounds. So nothing is going to stop the turbos from making at least 8 pounds of boost when the engine shoves enough exhaust gas through the turbine... ? Or have I just missed the point somewhere ? (wouldn't be the first time ) oops! Sorry to ShaneF - we seem to have deviated from the subject of this thread huh...