R32 TT

Yep - I have an ECU capable of that. But I don't get why you say that would make a difference? If I understand SK correctly, the turbos being small for the 3litre means that the exhaust wheel gets wound up 'early' even when on light throttle.. this being 'physically' how much air is moved - I don't see how the ECU would be able to stop it happening.. How would I fix using TPS? Mate! I'll have to come and see you to see what this GTR is like. Is it in your workshop at the moment? It would be good to know just how this combo goes.. I do like the 'boost anywhere' idea... but don't want to regret doing it either...

Hi guys, I've been reading this thread with interest and a lot of questions asked are ones I had myself! I am also building an RB26/30. I have ordered HKS cams of 264 degree and 10mm lift, so only a smidge bigger than Poncams. I am thinking of going 707160-5 turbos (same as HKS2530). I know this will limit my top end to about 600-650 flywheel hp. I don't mind so much as I am sure it will be torquey as in the mid range. Is there likely any problem with this setup in terms of the internal wastegate for example (will it be able to expel the air from the RB30 to keep boost under control) I know I could go GT-RS for more power - but I figure 2530's will spool ultra fast on a 3 Litre and this appeals to me.

The Tomei sump is sold guys, Turbo's still up for sale, and I can arrange freight for free. These are genuinely brand new - run on the car for only 4 days, and $400-$500 less than what you'll pay for a new pair.

Hi mate, Actually a big cap is exactly what you need. Yes, of course improving your earth, and wiring etc is certainly going to help - but a bigger capacity battery is actually only "more" load on your electrical system. The battery is "in use" so to speak when your car is not running. When your car IS running, then the Alternator (which is above battery voltage) is supplying all the "loads" in your car. Loads include your dash lights, headlights and so on - your car amplifier of course - and, your battery - because the alternator is trying to "charge" the battery. A bigger battery can demand more to be charged than a smaller one. Anyhow - getting back on track. Most loads in your car draw current in a constant sort of way. Your amplifier is the one that doesn't and will demand current in a dynamic way. Naturally the Bass takes up big chunks of power which is hard for the electrical system to keep up with. A large capacitor has the ability to release a great deal of current extremely fast and so can help "fill in" these sudden demands on current. The electrical system usually has enough time "in between the beat" to top up the Capacitor for the next beat. You just need to make sure you have enough "cap" for the demands and see that the wiring from the cap to the amplifier is sufficient. Easy test - get the Car Audio place to run the wires around the outside of your car and wire up a cap into your amp and see if it makes a difference. If they want to sell you a cap - its an easy 10minute test? M

Hi Guys/Girls, Item: Garrett GT2860r x2 Part Number 707160-7 (HKS GT-SS equiv specs) SOLD to SUMO BNR32 Condition: Perfect, only 4 days on the car. See pictures only taken a few minutes ago. Reason For Sale: I was originally building an RB26, but am now building an RB30, so I need bigger ones! Cost: $2400 (these are about $2900 to replace depending on where you go) e.g. http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm Item: Tomei Sump Baffle Kit SOLD to [WLDCRD] Condition: Brand Spankin! Reason For Sale: I have the sickness.. and so I am going for a Performance MetalCraft one instead. Cost: $210 I bought these turbos because I wanted a fast response street car with a bit of track/club stuff in there as well. I think they are perfect for the job. However, after being on the car for only 4 days, the number 2 Piston's ringland went. The engine has been stripped down and so now I have decided to build an RB30 and these turbos are a little small for that application. I have had the turbos checked out at TurboTech and I even have the VSR Balance sheet to show they are micky mouse. The turbos are more or less brand new and were run on Redline fully synthetic. At the same time, I am going to the 8Litre Performance Metalcraft sump, so don't need the Tomie insert anymore. (Also - had the actuators set to 15psi on each turbo) Be good if this were Perth Pickup, but I can freight if need be, Cheers, Matt.

yeah but "what" did you do? Install HKS Cams? Ok, but what lift/duration?

Hi Greg, glad you stopped by on this one! Tell me, is there a 'disadvantage' to running smaller base circles (other than the cost for new buckets?). ie the HKS do a 264 duration cam up to 10.0mm lift. But Tomei do a 260 duration cam up to 10.8mm. I am trying to get as much lift as possible. Would the extra 0.8mm lift of Tomei still be worth while? Or would you go the 10.0mm lift HKS cams and save the money and extra hassle...

Hi mate, Yup - I knew about the machining to clear the cam lobe - but thanks for pointing it out nonetheless. Wow - are you saying I need 13mm shims?? Don't you think getting as much lift as possible is going to help with engine efficiency and spool up even at 500-550hp? (my target) Its been recommended to me to go as higher lift as I can get in the duration I want and I thought it made good sense - I thought Poncams (as good as they are) were easier because you didn't have to worry about other valve train components. I don't mind mucking around a bit though to get the result I want... If its only shims and valve springs I am prepared to do it. If its special lifters, modifications to valves guides and more hoo-hah, then I might not go that far. What do you think?

Cheers! Sounds from what you're saying then that I shouldn't have too much trouble shimming them. mmm... big cams you have there!

Hi guys, I am in the process of an RB26 rebuild. I am looking to buy some Tomei Procams with 260degree duration and 10.8mm lift on both inlet and exhaust. A couple of questions: 1. I know I need valve springs to suit. Tomei have "Type A" valve springs which are said to be good for up to 10.85mm lift. Does this mean they are "right at their limit" if using a 10.8mm lift cam? OR are they exactly what I need? ie do they have appropriate clearance - I don't want them coil binding obviously. Has anyone had any experience with these? Can you run that "Type B" 11.5mm lift springs with a 10.8mm lift cam for some 'extra piece of mind' or is this unnecessary...? 2. Tomei seem to suggest that they reduce the base circle of their cams to get this lift. And they have lifters made for the job to most of this up. But of course this adds a further $500 minimum to the job. Has anyone successfully shimmed the stock lifters for these type of cam? 3. Lastly, if I DO need new lifters etc, then it may be better to back off the lift a little and go to say HKS 264 degree cams with only 10.0mm lift... (but I'd prefer as much lift as I can get). Can anyone comment if HKS/Tomei have reduced base circles and how they go about resolving these problems? Cheers! M

Hi all, As the topic says, 5 injectors working straight off an R32 GTR. The 6th one had a bit of a leak and so got binned. Looking for $250 for the lot.

True, but its better to set the actuators as close as possible to the boost you are intending to run. It will build boost quicker than a boost controller detecting, compensating etc..

Hi there Lucien, Actually I got the motor out over the break and its just been sitting there. Haven't got the head off yet - but will soon. I am making a "shopping list" at the moment... for the full rebuild... <_<

Hi mate, mine were set at 8 pounds from factory. We reset them to 16.

Can anyone point me in the direction of anyone that might have a good CNC program for doing RB26 heads? Has it been done? If it hasn't, I'm keen to get a second hand broken head off someone (if anyone has one lying around..) and get someone to do a couple of ports by hand first, then get a CNC program done up for it. Any leads on this guys?

Yeah I hear what you're saying. Perhaps the JE are thinner and/or have shorter skirts. (I've always preferred shorts skirts.. not just in pistons either...) I'll have to see if I can get hold of one and post some pics. I don't think the JE have any coatings like the Wiseco's either... I was thinking of having them ceramic coated - but thats just the top, not the skirts.. How much are the Wiseco's? Frankly, it was just what my engine builder suggested. He's always had a like for the JE stuff. I once used them in a V8 too. But to be honest - I'm sure the Wiseco are probably just as good. And I like the sound of the teflon... I'll ask him about it and see what he thinks, but I know he did say that most 'good forged pistons' these days are all very good.

I just weighed the stock pistons in at 440grams - and the JE replacements are 335grams according to the specs. 25% less, or 100grams per pot saving - using this particular piston. Got to be good. Take another 200grams off per rod and the crank surely is having a better time of things at 8000rpm - not to mention the faster spin up time?

Cheers for that, but I guess I meant I am not a "no limit to budget, out and out race car". I still intend to be 'racing' as much as I can. Part of the reason I have Motec and CDI is because that what my tuner is most familiar with, and secondly - he sponsored me. He probably wouldn't like me to give it away like that. But thanks for the offer anyhow. Now if you want to swap a veilside front bar for that nice stock one you have - that's something I'd be interested in!

Fair enough. I suppose it was just my thought that perhaps the crank may have suffered some fatigue over that time. If not, and in keeping with what Lucien says about the metallurgy point of view - perhaps it is better to simply keep that one? I'm all for saving the money if it really is no advantage.

No offence taken. I don't really want to throw $500 away on anything either. It just seems to me that to go to all this trouble while the motor is out and so on, and then pop the 12yr old crank back in - which has had to be modified (possibly weakened at this point?) - in the scheme of things $500 was good insurance... but hey, that's exactly why I am asking the question - to see what others have done/think on this. Pistons I thought were lighter going to the forged items over the stock cast ones -aren't they? The crower rods are about 200g lighter than the stock rods. (recently another was done, and my engine builder weighed them both).. so all this means less stress on the crank I would think.

Mate. That IS exactly how I want mine to look. I don't know whether be happy or sad to see it. I'm happy becuase it looks how I thought it up in my head - I'm sad because you've beaten me to it and worse still you're in Perth! Can I ask - did you get a new front bar and so on? Bought new or anything like that? I currently have a veilside front bar and no rear spoiler. I would like to get the Nismo front bar and rear stocky back on and am thinking of going new parts... Nothing on that thing I would change. Perfect.

Great! Thanks for that - I'll give them a buzz and doing some sniffing around on this. The Trust Sump is a new baffle and everything is it? I have to cut the old sump and weld this on etc? Is the Tomei baffle coupled with say an oil cooler as good an option? (since the oil cooler will add 'some' more capacity) Or is the Trust unit a superior baffle besides the actual capacity increase...?

Well - 'Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?' A rebuild could be just a set of rings and bearings and a 'freshen up'. Or full-house build doing pistons, rods and crank etc.. I guess it depends on what you are doing with it. I am trying to build something that will see some track work, so I have to balance my budget with things that will allow the motor to 'live' when its at revs on hard corners. So my build is going to include things like new oil pump, sump modifications and so on. But I am not going as full on as someone building an outright race car either. You could easily get more power than I am aiming for by spending less money. It will most likely live on the street because it doesn't see the same temperatures or get held at high revs for as long. If you aren't doing track work, you may not really need sump modifications at all. But I am doing the same as you, trying to find out from others what the 'balance' needs to be for what I want to do with the car. Doesn't really answer your question I know. But the answer is 'it depends'.

Any recommendations for the custom sump? Quite a few people seem say the Tomei insert is ok, but I can see that adding capacity can't hurt either... Who'd you get yours from?

Ah ok cool. I was going to ask this actually. Is there any real difference between the R34 Crank and R33 Crank? - I'll give Doug a call - cheers! And where abouts are you for getting the Tomei gear?