R32 TT

I hate to appear stupid... (but I am so ~good~ at it ) How would I check for this and what am I looking for? ie I don't know what the 'standard size' should look like, so I'm not sure if I look at it whether I will know if it has a restrictor fitted or not... Has anyone got a pic by chance?

ok well - a bit more information you might find interesting. Sure the Garrett are cheaper to buy than the HKS equiv. Prices for 707160-7 and -5 have been hitting around the $2500-$2700 mark. Nengun prices for HKS GT-SS have been around the $3200 mark I believe. I have however just bought the studs/nuts and gaskets to got with the 707160-7's that I bought - as none of these come with the turbos. Try $450 for the studs/nuts (18 all up) and $170 for the gaskets. From what I understand - the HKS 'kit' has all of this included? So now, the HKS/Garrett pricing looks much closer to a dead heat. Either way - when buying your turbos - ask if all this comes with them or not...

Hi all, Am fitting some Garrett 2560r to replace the stock turbos on my R32 GTR. A couple of people have mentioned fitting some sort of oil restrictor on the oil lines to the turbos to reduce the flow of oil to them (and increase it in the motor?) I would have thought that the lines on the turbos/GTR would already have this sorted... and I am concerned about what to do here.. I especially do not want to 'under' supply oil to the turbos of course.. Can anyone give me the low-down on why/how this is done? Or should it be left well alone?

Well - I can tell you I just had one pair of 706160-7 arrive. They are apart at the moment while I get the exhaust housings ceramic coated. Hopefully I would say they'll be back on the car and running within the next 2 weeks. (hopefully). I have thrown some photos up, along with some pics for comparison of the stock turbos and some of my manifolds after being ceramic coated. What you can't really see is that the exhaust housing is noticeably larger. I'm sure its something everyone has probably seen before, but here they are anyway. If anyone wants something specific photographed on them just let me know, http://dsl-202-72-159-143.wa.westnet.com.a...e/Turbo%20Pics/ Matt

All righty! Took me more than a couple of days... but heh... <_< 707160-9/707160-10 specs according to TurboTech: Hi Matt your turbo's are about 2 weeks so I have heard. The other GTR turbo's are GT2560R p/n 707160-9 comp wheel 45mm Trim 55 a/r 0.42 turbine 42mm trim 62 a/r 0.64 no actuator supplied 375hp. GT2560R p/n 707160-10 comp wheel 51mm trim 52 a/r 0.60 turbine 47mm trim 76 a/r 0.64 actuator supplied 450hp. Regards Ian Hmmm... can anyone say "HKS GT-RS" ? (707160-10) The -9 looks like the odd one out. Appears to be similar spec to the -7. But I am not sure of the other differences? It was suggested to me by someone else that only the -5 and -7 actually have the bolt on GTR format. Where as the -9 and -10 would need to be adapted. But this is totally second hand info - so don't quote me on it. If anyone knows better let us know.

You and I have a similar line of thinking then. Except my front turbo did let go just a couple of weeks ago. I already had made the decision to get new turbos, but they aren't in the country at the moment and so I guess it was just bad luck... (oh and the fact the stockies had been driven to 1.2 bar previously! It wasn't me. Honest.) I'm looking at the same thing as you. Average power under the curve rather than peak hp. I figure since the stock turbos running 1.1bar got me a 12.3, then GT-SS equivalents, and better dumps etc will get me in the high 11's. Fast car in anyones book - and should be good on the tight twisty stuff. I have a few mods done on both intake and exhaust. ECU and injectors are done too. Stock cams though. Just waiting for the turbo's. I've had the cast iron Exhaust manifold, dumps and front pipes ceramic coated this week, so I am a little bit excited (and nervous about the possible ceramic in my motor) Pity you're not in Perth to check it out, but the 707160-7 is what will be going on my car at this stage. So hopefully they aren't far away. (Garrett doesn't seem to have a solid ETA). Stay tuned and I'll let you know how they go,

I'll find out what the four are for you and post them up. (will just need a couple of days). For me, the -5 and -7 were the only two I was interested in since the others were bigger than these and I am after low down response, mid range etc... But give me a couple of days and I'll find out for you. (or perhaps someone else reading this already knows and will beat me to it?)

This help? GT2860RS ? <see attachment>

Yeah - I agree. So a pair of GT-SS's might be had for quite a lot less that a pair of GT-SS's if you know what I mean.. <damn should have kept that to myself!> I must admit I don't quite know how to read the turbo maps. I'd be interested to hear what your thoughts are and what is it that you are actually looking for when you read them... Mr lwells - what turbos are you currently running? ..or are you still deciding? Cheers, Matt.

Speaking to TurboTech over here in Perth, it would seem that the part numbers starting with 707160 are indeed the GTR type flange. There are 4 versions. 707160-5, 707160-7, and I can't remember the other two off hand. (I think they may be -9 and -10, but don't quote me) If you got to www.turbobygarrett.com they only mention the -5 and -7. Note that on this site, it refers to them as 2860r. But as Pete will tell you, his are stamped 2560r (still with 707160-5 stamped on them also) Now, in Turbotech's parts list, the 707160-5 and -7 are also referred to as 2560r, not 2860r However, there is a place on the Garrett website which mentions that they have a new naming convention in place. Here is a quote from that page: The biggest change related to the nomenclature is this: units which utilize a 53mm turbine wheel (as measured at the inducer) are now referred to as "GT25" frame size, while units employing the slightly larger 53.85mm turbine wheel are now referred to as "GT28" frame size. For those familiar with our product range, this means that the unit formerly known as "the GT28R" (part number 466541-1) is now in the GT25R family. More specifically, it is now a GT2560R model. You can find this at: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre.../gt_basics.html I would say that this is what is causing the confusion between the 2560r/2860r. The important thing is, it is the 707160-x range that we are talking about and bolts up to the GTR flange. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but this is how it appears to me. It would also appear, if you get out the specs on all these turbos that the -5 and -7 Garretts are very similar spec to the HKS2530 and GT-SS respectively. So! I am thinking of a pair of 707160-7 for myself... Anyone reading this tried them? Or am I pioneering them? (its the one time I don't want to be first....)

Hey guys, just thought I'd dig this thread up again to see how the GT-SS vs 2860r debate is going.. One thing that DiscoPotato mentioned was that on the Garrett site there are in fact TWO GT2860's.. one is the 707160-5 that we are all talking about as being more or less the same as a HKS2530 or N1.. The other is a 707160-7. Which no one seems to mention much. Take a close look at the spec on this and its more or less the same as GT-SS specs. But naturally it isn't going to be the same money as the HKS item. Has anyone delved into this a bit more? Have we got any opinions about if GT-SS truly do spool quicker and provide more average power on a stock to slightly modified RB26? If so - perhaps the 707160-7 flavour of the 2860r is worth looking at? Hey, WilliamsF1 did you have any luck getting more power up top with the GT-SS?

Does the 707160-7 have the GTR type flange already do you know? I was looking at that too - as it appears to have similar specs to GT-SS.. Is this your thinking too? Most people seem to be suggesting the 707160-5..

Mmm.. sounds ugly. So what would you say I'd be looking at budgeting for? Since the pistons, rods and crank are "intact" is is more likely just new rings and bearings? (and perhaps oil pump as you say)

Mate... that's all I needed to hear... Good luck with it - keep me posted on what it was with your motor - I'll do the same, Catch, M

Wow! $500 in and out? I think I've been charged near to that for just pulling the turbos off... Took them about 6 hours, they said is was a jerk of a job... What's the labour rate there? I'm paying around $77 an hour.. Yeah I tend to agree with you then, I think if you've got it out - I would do all bearings and so on.. I know how these things go though.. "ah, we may as well upgrade the pistons, crank and rods..." !! Perhaps I better pull my neck in though..

Thats interesting you say that.. I hadn't tried to cost it up as yet (burying my head in the sand ) But I think I had read on the forums most people suggesting $6k-$8k?? So the question is now - do I pull it apart and "see" if I can save a lot of the components before they're f$%$#. What do you reckon would be a rebuild cost then when you say its a fair bit cheaper? $500 Labour? Isn't that just for getting to motor out??

Yeah.. what a mess. Only had the car a while. Put in a 12.33 on its first run and I took it home. (not into the drags, just wanted to see..) Dropped a fair bit of cash into it in a short time including a Motec M800 and Motec CDI ignition system... Garrett GT2860r's on order - but out of stock so we fitted the Motec gear intending to run it for 4 to 6 weeks while we waited for the turbos.. Made 256rwhp on the old setup running 1.15bar - but ran a healthy 275rwhp running only 1bar flat using the Motec, with crisp throttle and idle etc.. Might sound like I "have the money" but quite frankly, I have stretched the budget. If the motor needs a rebuild I am down for the count in the 2nd round... Would it be cheaper/better to simply buy a drop in replacement motor? I'm looking for no more that 500 engine hp - so I had hoped the stock unit would be up to it. ? ...sorry to hear that you're in the same predicament.. no fun eh...

Uh oh...

Cheers for that Josip, I might give them a call and see what they reckon.. My engine builder doesn't think it would happen - but to be fair, he's not doing Skylines everyday and may not have thought of the fact that just 3 cylinders are in the equation...

G'day Pete, Yeah I can see what you mean re the velocity that parts off the turbo would have when it let go. They'd be fairly moving! It's just that they're so light - I figured even a whisper of air would blow them back downward toward the cat.. And considering the air speed and force of the exhaust I wouldn't have thought they'd go far at all.. To me it seems like throwing confetti against a stiff wind! It'd go nowhere! But... if people have had it happen.. well then, there goes that theory. I guess its all academic now anyway. I guess I have to spend the money on new turbos, have them fitted and then just "see" if it continues to live...!? I *hate* that. I'll do the compression test and see. I know all six cylinders had 150 only a week before it happened. So if any are down - I guess we'll know.. As for the boost - at the time, and during the last half of all of the dyno tuning etc it was running dead on 1bar. But the owner I bought the car off mostly ran 1.15 and had often run it at 1.25bar. Prior to the Motec going on I had continued to run it at 1.1bar myself.. Naturally I had hoped to have the new turbos on before this happened! Especially since I only drive it weekends - but as you know - the GT2860/2650r have been out of stock..... I suppose the Dyno tuning would have put it under a fair bit of stress. Also, there was quite a lot of backfiring as the revs were being backed off on Dyno... Would this be having a "detonation" effect on the turbo's do you think?

hmm.. I can understand that as 2 of the 3 exhaust valves are closed that when the 3rd is open is might be exerting pressure back up the manifold to towards 2 and 3..., but there isn't "airflow" in that direction is there? (and not vacuum surely?) And even is something was sent right up to a closed valve, wouldn't it be blasted out the moment the valve started to open? I'm not saying to anyone it hasn't happened of course.. if people have had it happen, then its happened - who am I to argue... I just can't understand how. And since some people have said theirs has been ok - am wondering how you figure it out before its too late... I can't believe this could mean a full rebuild!

Hey gang, Well, the thing happened that I had hoped wouldn't. Did a fair bit of Dyno work last week, fitting a new ECU, and - after about an hour of being finished - my front Stock Turbo spat it. I pulled out into traffic and gave it a foot full and it more or less went halfway through making boost I think. Luckily I was only about 500m from the workshop so I parked it more or less straight away.. Now I've read a lot of posts saying that blowing a standard turbo exhaust wheel can somehow take out the motor? Firstly - how? Can the bits of wheel travel back up the exhaust manifold against the pressure of exhaust flow AND make it past an open exhaust valve?? OR, did the motors that have blown actually lose a wing or two on the compressor side (which seems more likely) By the way, we have the turbos and exhaust off and yes, my wheel is in 'bits', it didn't stay as one piece.. Also, for those who have actually had this happen - did it more or less munch the motor straight away? Or a few hundred kilometers later? The reason I ask is my motor still starts and purrs just like it did before. Obviously I am not driving it - but it "seems" fine. Someone said "ceramic dust" can get back into the motor, and then slowly grind it up... but that seems even less likely than "pieces" getting in there as surely dust wouldn't make it against the exhaust flow? What else can I "look for" to try and save the motor? Gimme some good new guys.. Cheers! PS.. Yes, I had turbos on order since about 6 weeks ago and would have had them fitted by now if they were in the country... <_<

How do you rate it Roy? Besides the fact that it still looks good of course. Do you think that there really are benefits in better spool time and more power to be had from it all? I'm sure it keeps underbonnet temps down a little - and perhaps even extends the life of the components coated - but I am more interested in the true gains in performance, and keeping the ait flow up. A negative feature was suggested to me: And that was that since I am keeping the exhaust temp so hot (because it can't lose heat so easily) that I would be putting further stress on the internals of my turbine and bearing etc! <_< catch 22? Or irrelevant do you think?

Ah - so it does! (just looked it up) I have a basic HKS boost controller which doesn't - and I only ever see people quoting max boost.... so I wondered if this sort of thing was played with much.. Sorry if it was a dumb question! I come from a normally aspirated backgorund and am still learning. So would this be the norm then? Are people out there tending to raise the boost as RPM goes up? cheers,

Hi mate, have you got the actual aircon controls? ie the digital display with fan, temp buttons and so on? Mine displays but sometimes just doesn't respond to button pushes etc... intermittent. How much would you want for it? Matt