dori34

michaelk, what are the side skirt rear extensions, do you have pics of that? pods look like these http://knightracer.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Bryan_R32GTR_029.jpg its trust style not top secret bonnet lip is just a n1 replica in fibreglass, as the oem foam/plastic one warps and loses its shape,

car booked in to do clutch next week, so will visit toshi in 2 weeks for final tune

found this video from Tao, great music choice will run approx 3-4mm as advised by Tao. if i adjust actuator, will it affect the tune ? my turbo 21u hiflow is getting fullboost by 4500~ which is very laggy. me and toshi tested with no airbox cover on and it help response dramatically but no where near the 35-3700rpm it should be getting fullboost by. current mods 480cc 21U hiflow 3" turboback jasma apexi superdunk 2,5" cooler high pressure hypergear actuator @ 19-20psi unopened rb25det s2 r33 Toshi suggested to run pod with EBC and it will help around 4000rpm but i want the 3500-3700 response that the 21U is supposed to make lol didnt get change to run on dyno or complete 3rd and 4th gear runs as clutch slipped over 5000

anyone use the 9.5" NPC clutch or are you all using the 10" as advised by NPC?

is that in Smithfield ? if so I will do after i change my balljoints.. i use to go jax in livo but they apparently stopped doing custom wheel alignments on weekends cause it takes up too much time... ironically the wheel alignment machine was empty for 20mins as i waited.... grrr i think pedders stuffed up my alignment because when turning left, the steering wheel doesnt rotate back and needs manual input, where as turning right it rotates back itself.

urgh dam i just bought rails like this with the MO adapters, guess my head will be hitting the roof then get original MO rails

will try reducing toe to 1mm total and see if it improves. dont want to pay for a full alignment just to adjust toe so will try do some home adjustments until i get the ball joints fixed. Thanks guys

i noticed below certain speed my steering wheels different to when it is above certain speeds. one is firmer and tighter the other feels like theres no feedback and loose. any suggestions what the issue could be?>

any tips on adjusting preload on actuator?

what methods would you guys use for bedding in brakes? go to 80km, hard brake without lock up down to 20km repeat 6-8 times let cool overnight?

BUMP

BUMP

do you have the original rear swaybar?

whatever the rubber covers over the ball joint is called. this is what mine look like, this could be culprit of back end wiggle ? anyone used the chinaspec ball joints or have any issues with them? if they last a few years i'll happy. $60 delivered for 2 vs 1x for $80 + delivery....

sorry don't have those plastic trim inserts apart from gear surround, dash cover and stereo/AC surround.

about the before and after. the before settings was the new settngs after the original settings got wiped as they had to redo it as i mentioned the toe was changing on its own. front and rear toe were completely out prior to getting the alignment done. been searching up that hicas bushes can do this so i checked them out and theyre both worn with torn rubber boots. pretty certain my control arm ball join boots are torn also so will probably just replace them all at the same time and give the suspension a freshen up.

up she goes

so just recently got a wheel alignment done to the below specs. settings i've found from searching the forum and posted by sydneykid. the back end feels wobbly/loose when i hit any bumps in the road and it wiggles side to side. I jacked the car up and could see the rear hicas arm ball joint in the hub is worn on both sides,I assume this would cause the above issues? am i better off replacing the worn ball joints or go with hicas eliminiator kit from driftworks etc. i initially thought it was due to needing an alignment after all the adj arms went in but looks like it made no difference as it was experienced before. Pedders said the rear toe kept changing on it's own when they tried to set the toe right to my specs so it could be related to the worn ball joints... they but couldn't say why or what was causing this and before anyone says it, i know i shouldn't of went to pedders but i was desperate for an alignment on a saturday arvo... they also mentioned my KPI and Included Angle should be the same, as they are different indicates a bent hub, is this true? current handling mods are adj front caster adj rear camber HSD dualtech coilovers (damper adjustment makes no difference) hicas lock bar subframe collars appreciate any of your comments.

Luke, do you mean evo x door cards? only jun, abflug or tbo front lip for r32 gtr

after wide rear fender or bolt on flares in the 15-30mm range.

when is the nismo festival on?

found out they are 25mm at the widest point if anyone ever needs to know for future reference

unfortunately coupes only Lifted

anyone fit these on their gtst before. curious to know how wide they are for the rear i know they dont work with lipped guards so planning to shave the piece that overlaps and stuck on with some strong adeshive thanks

also have R33 GTR radiator cooling panel (mines style) in carbon fibre $150 and GTR wing end plates in carbon fibre $90