Psymon

How much you looking at for the Tein castor arms?

Picsoritdidnthappen!

I don't know if that's a serious question or not!

Yeah just a metal lip behind/under the front bumber basically that would move up and down when the buttons were hit. From what i gather they usually get removed because they're quite heavy and the actuators break and cost a lot to replace. I've never actually seen a working one!

I had a similar problem on my RB20. I did a temporary fix by getting a piece of moulded heater hose from Autobarn in the right size. I have a couple of speedflow fittings on the way that should be a more permanent fix.

I like Terry's idea!

Nissan did it factory in my R32 GTST. I checked on FAST and its definately meant to be there. All i have left is the buttons. The spoiler and actuators are sitting in my shed... probably about 25kg worth!

Thats the engine CC not the manufacture date!

Awesome 31!

It doesn't leave the garage often! Especially now i can't put a timing belt on it haha

Dammit! haha

Well nothing else has worked so i guess it's time to weld or drill. I'm not sure how well welding will work because most of the center of the stud has been drilled out.

On the plus side i know a couple of really skilled welders so i might get one of them to take a look and see if they can pull it off!

If i HAD to choose it would be the LP640 but I can see why it's a hard choice. Ideally driving both would be the most satisfying! Out of interest, how much to rent one of these? And what sort of restrictions are on them etc.

Should have bought a 32 chester!

Yeah no thread doctor or anyone out here unfortunately! I miss canberra sometimes With the dremel idea... won't that pose a significant risk of damaging the thread in the block? Something i'd rather avoid if possible. But i guess as a last resort I can give it a try. I got a suggestion in a pm to try a proper stud remover instead of an ezi out so i might give that a crack if i can find one in my lunch break.

Hey guys. I've broken the stud that holds my timing belt tensioner in place and haven't been able to budge it. I've drilled through the centre of it and tried using an easy out but it won't move one bit. I'm going to try hitting it with some of that freezing spray tomorrow to see if that helps crack it, or maybe heat the block around it with once of those pencil blow torches but i'm not sure how successful this will be. I've thought about welding something in there but there is very little surface area to get a decent weld. It doesn't help that the stud has snapped just below flush with the block either. So has anyone got any ideas or suggestions that might help me get this stud out? Cheers Simon.

Nope. A lot of places will not offer any warranty on performance parts.

I'll take the plenum. Shoot me a pm.

I've had plenty of problems with australia post express. I try and avoid them at all costs now.

I was wondering this myself when i was looking at my broken stud last night!

Yeah... pretty much the same problem here. The car started making a horrible noise. Pulled off the timing covers to find heaps of slack on the tensioner side of the belt. So lucky not to skip any teeth! Mine would fall in this category.

Anyone had this problem with the tensioner pulley stud? I just snapped mine! Luckily no engine damage though!

When mine was auto it would start a burnout a lot easier if i bounced on and off the brakes a bit. One day i realised i didn't want the auto any more and i was going to put my manual conversion in so i did some D bangers to send the auto off in style, they worked heaps well! Just don't expect the auto to last more than a few times!

Mine does this. If you're confident enough you can close it with a test light. Pull the switch down, grab a test light and clip the alligator clip to the metal frame in the headlining. Then just poke the pointy end into the bottom left wire i think it is. I'll be home from work soon so i can get you a pic if you like. Also the keys have to be switched to ON for this to work. Also... there's no point mucking around with a 2nd hand switch. A new switch from Nissan is only about $50 and should only take them a couple of days to get. Part no 25450-01U10.