Psymon

I bought some of those Autotechnica H3C's. Shittiest bulbs i've ever seen. They literally fell apart after they got warm!

The only identifying numbers i've seen on mine are on the compliance plate and build plate on the firewall. It also has the compliance VIN stamped into RH strut tower. I guess if they were getting picky there's your engine number which may be used to indentify it. Most rego stickers also have a VIN on them. Some cars also have the chassis actually stamped somewhere into the chassis. I've never noticed it on the 32, but i've never really looked for it either.

Out of interest, was any other damage caused when this bolt snapped? Was it a bolt supplied by Nissan or otherwise?

I have been lucky twice now! I'm about to do my 2nd timing belt in 20 000k. Did the first one a few years ago at 130k because the idler siezed. I didn't know what the previous owner had done so i replaced belt, idler and tensioner. Now the tensioner has gone again so it's all being replaced again. No damage either time!

Do these offer a camber difference over factory arms?

I've noticed a company on eBay selling aluminium radiators that have aluminium shrounds and twin thermo fans on them already. Meant to be a complete bolt in setup. If anything it at least looks neat... couldn't really comment on performance though. I can't get a link atm because it's blocked at work but if no one else has found it by the time i get home i'll find one.

Anything with a screw on lid since the 32 doesn't have a cup holder!

That looks gorgeous!

I slept with my window open last night and woke up with my whole room, closet and ensuite covered in dust! It's gonna take ages to clean!

As far as I'm aware, Nissan never made a GTR bumper to fit a GTST.

Flywheel Bolts 12315-42L11 P/S Belt 11720-V7300 A/C Belt 11720-77A01 Fan & Alt Belt 11720-AA001 Spigot Bush 32202-B950A Thermostat 21200-V7206 Oil Filter 15208-53J0A

I think you'll be struggling to get a turbo for that power level on your budget. You might pick up something 2nd hand if you're lucky. Maybe do a bit of research to find the turbo you need then check out yahoo japan auctions for a good deal? Check out the RB20 turbo upgrade thread sticked at the top of the forced induction page. That will give you some ideas of what you need to make what power. As for your auto, MV autos in adelaide can provide the bits to make your box handle that power and there should be someone in victoria who could fit them for you.

Head over to the Mobile Electronics Australia forums and ask on there. You'll get more informed anwers and less smart ass comments from jerks.

Maybe... if i stop being lazy and get a tune by then

Seems to have started running ok. Very lopey idle but once it revs past about 2k it smooths out and revs cleanly. Should be enough to get it to the tuner methinks. Only a 2km drive

Car wouldn't run or idle properly... sounded like a timing issue so i wondered if it was the CAS. Seems to be working ok now for some reason but i'll check later for any codes.

Like the topic says... is there a way to test a CAS? No one around here has one so i can't really just swap it over to test

Ok. well i guess i'll have to figure out why it won't even idle! Just checked cam timing again and its fine. I'll go and pull the plugs. Would adjusting the cam gears make a difference?

I've just finished putting a head on my RB20 which had some bigger than standard cams. Not entirely sure what they are but i have a feeling they might be 264 duration... not entirely sure on lift. With the larger cams, will i be able to start it and get it running well enough to drive to get a tune? I started it earlier and it was idling well albeit quite lumpy for about 5 minutes. The problem is i forgot to plug in the air flow meter during this time. Now i've plugged it in but it won't idle any more. I've got a new set of plugs to try incase running it without the afm plugged in has fouled the plugs in it. I've checked cam timing and its fine. The adjustable gears are both set to 0. I've also checked all the obvious things like sensors, vacuum, IC pipies all joined properly. What about ignition timing? Should i just leave it where it was prior cams? Or should it be retarded to deal with the more aggressive cam profile? Or is it just a simple case of it's not going to even idle until i get it tuned? I appreciate any help guys. Thanks.

Happened to have an Rb20 injector in my drawer and my camera on my desk so i took a photo for you

Alright so i've just had some custom piping made for a new turbo i've fitted and i've just realised i now have nowhere to plumb the breather pipe from the turbo side rocker cover back into the inlet piping. I still have the hose from the plenum side breather that connects to the pcv hooked up, and i have the u shaped hose that joins the 2 breathers hooked up. I'm wondering if i can just block the outlet that feeds to the inlet piping or does this cause problems? Any help is appreciated guys. Can also provide pictures if required.

Really? Must have gone up... i know a guy who got done years ago and it was only $76 then.

I just finished this... it was a great game! I finished playing as Hero, so i might play it again as Infamous... at least then i won't have to worry about not killing civillians!

I read that this morning as well! Fantastic news!

I had the same thing happen once on my subaru daily. I was lucky because i managed to jam a largeish flathead in there and with enough force screw out what was left of the bung without damaging the thread. Then i just replaced it with a normal bolt with a bit of thread tape wrapped around it to prevent leaks. Sure it means i need a spanner to get it out now but it doesn't leak and i haven't had any problems since! Just have to be careful not to over tighten it.