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Well I am going to visit Akihabara, I know the trains are good over there and I don't mind a bit of a walk. Just trying to find somewhere near there or near a train station thats relatively easy to get to.

Hey I'm going on a short holiday soon to Japan. I want to visit some car part shops to buy a few things but I am struggling to find any info on the net. I know there are going to be a heap over there but I want to make sure they are close by and easy to find from where I am staying. So, does anyone have any links for car part shops? Looking at buying my turbo's, cams, injectors and some other things. I am specifically after HKS and Nismo items. Thanks

Hi, I'm wanting sell my fish tank so I can buy a bigger one. Its an AquaOne AquaStyle 850 model with stand. It has its own built in filtration system using 'bio balls' and its own lighting system. The tank outline is silver in colour and the stand is a light brown. I am currently keeping a pair of clown fish, a redband shrimp and a bubble tip anemone but I am using a special light to keep the anemone alive. I've had the tank for about 5 weeks and I would like $450 for it. This is what it looks like, Located in North Sydney.

I'm after either an R32 or R33 GTR head. I dont need the exhaust side like the exh. manifold, turbo's or lines but would like the intake side to be complete with injectors. The head itself must be complete. If you have one let me know with the price.

I emailed them at the start of the week and they said they used the ductile iron rings. I will be surprised if you could get the new ring set at their advertised price.

^ Why? They don't even sell the turbo he is after. Do you goto a butcher to buy fuel?

They are still using the older style piston rings hence the cheaper prices than you see listed above...

Hello, I have 1 brand new ARP stretch gauge for sale. I would like $270 delivered for it, pick up, or COD is welcome if you pay the COD fee. I did buy it for myself but I doubt I will use it for quite some time. Pics; Part Number : 100-9942 Info from ARP website: We highly recommend using a stretch gauge when installing rod bolts and other fasteners where it is possible to measure the length of the bolt after tightening. It is the most accurate way to determine the correct pre-load in the rod bolt. Simply follow manufacturer’s instructions, or use the chart on page 25 of this catalog for ARP fasteners. Measure the fastener prior to starting, and monitor overall length during installation. When the bolt has stretched the specified amount, the correct preload, or torque, has been applied. We recommend you maintain a chart of all rod bolts, and copy down the length of the fastener prior to and after installation. If there is a permanent increase of .001˝ in length or more, or if there is deformation, the bolt should be replaced immediately. Don’t chance it! A sample chart is as follows: ARP offers a highly accurate stretch gauge with a dial indicator that reads in increments of .0005˝. Features extra heavy springs for consistent repetition. Comes with a heavy-duty, insulated plastic carrying case for protection. A “must” for any serious engine builder.

Sold

Price dropped to $370.

Yep, but some companies may x-ray prior to that process so their grain flows may seem better than after forging.

You have to remember that the grain structures and flow change during the forging process.

I think different rods will have different pitched threads. 3/8" and 11/32" are two that are available for the RB30 I think... You just have to make sure which one it is before you buy the rods I guess.

Rods Have a read of that site. Gives you a bit of info about different forged, billet, aluminium and titanium rods.

What rods were they RB SANDY?

Hey, I'm looking at starting go-kart racing as I'm sick of doing nothing on my days off work. Does anyone here race or could give some pointers about getting started up? I am looking at probably buying an Arrow Kart, AX8 28-30 As seen here And a Yamaha KT100S motor... My only concern is that i'm quite tall (194cms) and not too sure about how I would fit. If someone has some info on licences too than that would help. Thanks.

Why not just buy a shit box and keep saving your money so when you're off your P's you will have enough to probably buy a R33 GTR... Thats what I would do...

From the ARP site...

Hi, Have 1 set of GTR ARP2000 head studs. Brand new in a box $390 delivered or pickup. In North Sydney. PM if interested.

from memory you can use the VG30 bolts, same thread pitch as sr20 which suits the rb30...

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haha all good dude, my post was rather random, just felt like adding something

beer baron, its richard from unique autosports ! come and ill show you next time your in :-)

doing dyno runs the last few days on a top secret car, big mods, and a t88-38k, 22 psi, 432rwkw. oh by the way, did anyone say lag ? next step is to bottle it so the boost comes on quicker ! boo yah

yeah dude, its just a slapper, i used to work in porsche supercup, a factory mod was the change from sintered brass to steel synchro rings, they are a bit heavier on the wear of the gear cone however give a far crisper and quicker gear change due to the higher co efficient of friction of the steel pn stell set up. consider synchros are $30 ea, times 5 = $150, os gear set $2k plus ? im not that keen on spending that sort of money on a gearbox, as i said its just a slapper. I dont need a twin plate, its only 230rwkw, if i dump it it would smash the box, i've generally found that a good single plate is well upto taking this power output. thanks for the comments though, all info helps, especially passing it on to other, cheers