sl33py

Yeah.. PFC FTW. Motec's are only 500(ish) more than PFC without ANY of the extra junk you need to add on, never mind tuning. If you run a race car and find one cheap though, go for it.

Saw a blue R33 (GTR?) turning off Coranderrk and down Parkes way...

Awesome!

Second spare snorkel arrived today.

FIIIINALLY! Booked into Trojan for Monday... John & Ang already work crazy hours, and all you buggers are taking up his time haha so I'm being squeezed in, and not sure how long it'll be (guessing ~10 days give or take). Still waiting on an oil cooler from Slide, should be here in 3-4 days. Everything else is here: GTRS, PFC & EBC, Nismo 740cc's & pump, Blitz FMIC. Given the recent number of posts about the GTRS turbo and how well suited it is to RB25, I'm very excited There's some really nice curved dyno graphs on here... mmm curves... Plus if it's ready by the 11th, I can go to Wakefield the very next day

Shell: how is it? GeeTR: why are you up at that crazy hour?! Shell has an excuse lol

I can provide a blind monkey! lol

Shine

The beltronics site says it needs to be mounted in the windscreen = useless. Cop: "What's that sonny?" Busted.

I've heard quotes from 500 to 1000 for a full turbo kit installation. btw this topic is done to death.

What Guilt Toy said, you're gung ho on buying new coilpacks, but you're hesitant to "blow" $150 for a mechanic's time, when they should be able to diagnose the problem accurately...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong on these points, but: After all that, a turbo capable of 300RWKW on an unopened RB25 is gonna be (comparatively) laggy until what... 4500rpm? And would really hit its stride from ~5-6000rpm and up? Then, to keep the engine from dying in less than 2 months, you've gotta stop at 7k. AWESOME - 2500rpm range of decent power, sounds like a barrel of fun... Not. I think that's one of the big reasons people rebuild with better balanced parts right? So they can rev it to 8 or 9k without worrying, and be able to spool up a big turbo. If your dead set on 300rwkw (or so) without opening an engine, go buy a GTR or a later Supra TT.

vegemite

lol, that goin' under parents name thing has been fine and been paid out on every occasion thus far for my family, thanks. And the quote was always different with 1 older driver VS 1 older and 1 younger, I checked. I'm no SK/whoever, so I only say what I know from experience. Anyway it's irrelevent here, as I don't expect it would work with an import, and this was NRMA. Anyway as GTST said in this case, it's most likely JCI or bust. OK, back to OP's topic.

Well, it was good enough for NRMA to pay up. They take the youngest driver into account when quoting, it would be a little more than if it was just the older person. Noone should make legal decisions based on what a bunch of car enthusiasts in a forum say Besides, NRMA won't touch him or that car.

Just thought of something else regarding insurance: Since you're young, get your MUM or DAD to insure the car under his name, with you listed as a secondary (/occasional) driver. Should come out cheaper. Works with NRMA, should work with other places.

Think this would have been just as effective lol

750?! I think my yellow top was like between 3 or 400, and I think that was RRP

Go to your local trusted suspension/Skyline mechanic and SHOW him this spinning. See what they say.

I agree on the 'wait til you've got it' front. Have you driven this kind of car before? 140-150rwkw might be enough for you for a while. Anyway, going by previous car purchases (performance cars OR not): Allow 5-10% of the cost of the car in repairs in the first 2 years. Something WILL break, regardless whether you mod it or not. That's been my experience so far. Then WRT mods: You'd be looking at another 3-4K or more in labour if you're having all that stuff done. It may be because I'm at work and none of the pics you've added are coming up, but I don't see anything about suspension or clutch. Add another 2-4K depending how far you go with them. By the way, before you apply for a 35K loan (like I did), please be aware that most of the major banks have 30K as a glass ceiling that people without "assets" can borrow. And by assets, they mean if you don't own land, or a (resaleable) car, or stocks or anything, and you don't have a LOT of disposable income, it's HIGHLY unlikely they'll lend you over 30K. And rejected loan applications from one institution impact on applications to other places. Just sayin', cos that's what I found and ended up going through a (knee) broker ( ), you might be in a different situation. Because 3 years ago, I had the same wonderful dreams you currently have: My R33 GTST (so same engine as what you'll be getting): Car: 25k (bit more than should have paid, but was close and in pretty good nick) Instantly needed new coilpacks (fault was hidden by the seller, only figured it out a few months later), 500 Water pump and radiator were knackered after my first really 'spirited' drive, few hundred Front rotors had signs of cracking after 1 year, 500 About a year ago the suspension was found to be on the front bump stops + other issues, 2K And none of this was power upgrades or appearances etc (which I have also done, but they add up to way more than the boring 'fixes'). Get the best car you can afford to, keeping 10% money spare. If nothing falls off/blows up in the first year, THEN think about upgrading it. Just bare in mind that upgrading one thing often breaks other bits. Ever thought of just buying an R33 GTR? If you look hard, you *might* find one for 35-40K You'd have a bit more power than a 25DET, and the GTRs are built a bit stronger. Plus, you hopefully wouldn't feel the urge to upgrade it for the first year (if you do.... eyes bigger than your stomach ).

Dang, something's come up - will be busy all that weekend.

Saw a black R32 GTR (YGT ***?) in Civic about 15 minutes ago, dropping a huge ploom of unburnt fuel out his exhaust as he booted it to try and catch an amber light. Then while we were waiting at the lights behind him, he got a fly-by from a black R33 going down Corranderk.

What about solid pipes on the RB25DET from AFM to turbo? I think the flex in the rest of the stock piping does the equivalent job of the flex here right? I had a Civic with a solid pipe instead of the flex pictured above - it meant a small exhaust leak and a terrible whizzing noise until I got some flex put back in there... which is when they noticed a blocked up home-made oil return on the sump... They reckoned it had been turbo'd, or at least attempted, and then reverted back to normal!

Get them from SydneyKid's group buy, with his custom settings. My mechanic says my R33 is one of the best handling he's driven.