sl33py

My clutch squeaked a lot. My sounds were coming from inside the actual clutch housing. When a mechanic pulled aside the rubber boot which keeps it shut, sprayed some WD40 in and then we pumped the clutch - no more sounds. They said "the bearings have dried out" or something to that effect, and they said they could go in and lube it up etc, but they said they don't bother and usually just replace the whole clutch at the time (for a 10yo car).

Zero maintenance oil free air filters?! Didn't know they existed. I'm getting an Apexi! I'll just be sure n box it up.

I've got a JVC head unit where I can put in the time delay from each speaker to my head. I've just got front splits and a sub. The splits are set fine IMO, but I don't think the sub has ever been spot on. I've dialled the sub so it's only handling 53k or lower (40k if I want it really tight, cos it's a 12"). But I'm still not sure what distance (cm) to set the sub for. It's in a box about 10cm from the LHS of the boot, with the cone facing the right hand side of the car slightly angled up (it's bolted down). I think the "as the bird flies" distance is about 260cm, but it sounds better (I think) somewhere between 130-150cm. Strange. What do you guys/gals use? I'll keep experimenting, but think there maybe some trick when setting the sub distance, as it's not direct line of sight and not facing forwards or backwards.

Thanks Nismoid One more possibly stupid question - if the new radiator I'm getting is 4cm thick instead of 1cm, it's gonna take 4x as much coolant to fill right? If so, hope I don't have to flush it or top it up too often, cos that would be costly!!

worm

I'll get the radiator for sure, and try to get a cheap oil cooler (dunno what makes a good one). I'm currently running stock ECU, but have a PFC to go in. To save on tuning, I was planning on giving the mechanic the PFC and get an FMIC, the radiator all at once. Now I might wait til I can get an oil cooler and thermostat and ask about a header tank as well. I don't know if I plan on going to the track once a month, maybe even less but when I do, I want the car to last at least 4-5 sessions like others do and without worrying about this stuff. Thanks guys!

I find it's a good rule for buying a "normal" car that you should allow 1.5-2k for random repairs in the first 6 months. For any RWD Skyline, double that. For any GTR, quadruple it. And tha't not even thinking about insurance. There are exceptions, like if you know the previous owner, and they've done all the hard yards and you drive with the suggestions above in mind. But the average Skyline where you don't have a clue how many kms the timing belt has done, or how worn out the radiator or oil/water pumps are, or condition of the turbos etc. This is why I got my 100k service at 90k. And in 3 years I've had to change front rotors, water pump/radiator flush (don't bother, get a new thicker one like I now have to anyway), new clutch (not cos of my driving but simply because the "bearings had worn/dried out" and the mechanic didn't want to go in there simply to delay what would be coming 20thou kms later. Basically with my Skyline, if something screws up, I tend to replace AND uprate the part so that it's very unlikely to occur again. Having said that, I'm currently eating tuna and bread for lunch every day haha The part I find most annoying is that I've spent maybe 10k on fixing and replacing stuff, and other than the exhaust, I have not ONE power mod! I guess when I do boost it, it's more likely to last longer. A stitch in time....

Dammit. What time of year and what was the temperature like? I'm worried about replacing the radiator and it not being the cause. However, if the fins being so crumbly/weak shows it's as bad as I'm told, then maybe it's the difference between mine and yours/my instructors old R33. If I replace the radiator and it's still buggered, I'll try for the mechanic to find+fix the real cause for free haha Going to Wakefield is an expensive way to test it, but I can't think of a better way than simply recreating the conditions - continually pushing the car in reasonable heat for 9-10 laps, nearly constant boost and just seeing what happens. When my radiator was blocked and I was testing, I did a bunch of hard launches, stop/start driving in the middle of summer and that brought the temp right up, but that doesn't compare to a few laps of Wakefield.

Cool, thanks. Is the header tank just the topmost section of the radiator? What would you have to do to be able to just go at it for a full session or two and not have to think about the car or check gauges? I wasn't concentrating on much except the road, and can't imagine looking at gauges while on the track haha. Don't even remember looking at my speedo now I think about it. haha @ pod I'll only do it if my mechanic can prove it gives more power and I'd box and duct it anyway. Keen to avoid the noise if I can anyway.

Oils are all Motul. Engine oil = 8100. Coolant is Nulon ready made (red) stuff, says it's made for jap and euro cars. Mmm, I know/have a plan how to get the power I'm after at a later date, have discussed that with my mechanic/tuner (who does have a dyno), and got that side pretty much sorted. I intended to track it again with what I hoped to be the fix for the overheating before doing ANY power mods, but I found the ECU cheap and it'll help with street economy and I'll do it at the same time as the FMIC to avoid having to retune. Depending on how things go, that could very well be as far as I mod the car, but I've spent money to be sure I'm ok in case i go further. I agree, I don't intend to get a new turbo before I've "learnt" the car as is and gotten pretty much the best times I can in the car (will get my instructor to drive it to compare/get a target time). My stock radiator was flushed and water pump replaced about 1.5 years ago, because after a 'spirited' run and subsequent overheating while only on normal street, my mechanic found that the radiator was 2/3 blocked and the pump was knackered. After this track day, he pushed on some of the back fins of my radiator and they crumpled pretty easily (I pushed one too cos I wasn't sure how hard he pushed and yep... pretty weak). He said this means it's on the way out/corroding. By the sounds of it, the new radiator should do it. I'll ask him about an oil cooler too. I'd really like to know what else is included in "and any other supporting mods that may require replacing of stock parts to maintain reliability". I know the fuel pump should be replaced, but I'm sure there's other bits and pieces to put on the list that I don't know about yet.

I wanna know what of the basic systems of the RB should be upgraded to make it "bulletproof" up to say 260-270rwkw. I just did a course in my R33 GTST at Wakefield, but the car cr4pped itself after two sessions, boiling out 4L of coolant and eng temp maxed out. I brought spare coolant and made it home fine and hasn't exhibited any strange behaviour in the past few days but I'll keep an eye on it. It was about 27deg on the day and maybe 33 on the track. I want to go back and be certain the car can run a full day (with reasonable breaks between sessions of course, not non-stop). Especially as it's only going to get hotter in the next few months! My mechanic had the car several times recently (suspension mods) and says the engine is fine in general, and most likely the 1cm thick stock radiator just wasn't up to the heat of the day and how I was driving. He's recommended a 4cm thick radiator which I'll get. But I want to know what else should be looked at/replaced. The car is very stock power wise - 142rwkw. Just a full 3" exhaust, Metalcat, Splitfires, very heavy single plate clutch, light flywheel, suspension 95% replaced/redone. No other mods remotely related to power. So what are the weakest links of the RB? If an oil cooler will help, I'll get it, cos they seem reasonably cheap (the kits at least, dunno about install). I'm very proactive with my car and try to nip things in the bud. Seeing the engine temp max out like that made me 5h1t myself more than having to continue the day in my instructor's GTR (with another 70kw atw than mine - he though I was stressing about driving his stripped out race car... I was just worried about mine!!) My car runs fine on the road with no overheating etc. And I know oil coolers and such may not be necessary for street, but I think the track was a good test - I want it to be able to last a whole day if I want. I don't think I need to worry about baffled sumps/whatever, because I'm not achieving those kinds of speed (yet) I guess I was just surprised that the engine poo'ed itself so hard when it's stock as. Surely they get that kind of heat some days in Japan. My instructor said he had an R33 that didn't do this at the track. Other things I'll be doing shortly (not because of the overheating, these were already on the cards) are: FMIC, new ECU, radiator (to help the cooling), radiator air deflector (for what it's worth), possibly a pod (properly boxed of course). I got my mechanic to put in a clutch that will hold 300kw, so no worries there (man does it bite hard though). I've gotta admit, I've never properly looked into the supporting elements of the engine, just the "main" parts. I searched on here but didn't have any luck - "weakest/RB/weak/link" etc

Nice! What the heck is the black mini-looking thing near the end... the one with the engine in the passenger seat?!

Rob just told me: "we've got three Summernats finalists working here" or something very similar to that. Booked in

Massage bahahahha

Stand corrected! *gets back in box*

Um yeah, even with the reds you've gotta give them 2-3 minutes casual driving before you can expect a decent pull up at the lights.

FYI: Dereck at 5th Gear just had EBC Reds fitted They were squealing like crazy cos they were only put on the day before, but mine are quiet.

Yeah I heard/read that too, Dereck said he's never seen it or had it happen to him. I think i left it off and just left it in gear/reverse. Boiling coolant STINKS. Definitely gonna head back out though to: a) verify in the same conditions that the overheating is solved and b) find out what time I can do in this thing!

Yeah someone else told me that too when I got home I'll know for next time. Was too busy freaking out.

So by lap ~15 my temp gauge was that the "oh 5h1t" marker. I pulled into the pits and saw that coolant was boiling and p1ssing out all over the ground. Car sounded like a kettle! I popped the hood, and let it cool a bit... nothing doin'. So I I did a few slow laps of behind the pit area and the gauge just maxed out. Aieee! Pulled in, shut it down, left it. Threw more money at Dereck and jumped in his car instead I'm just lucky I brought a nearly full 5L bottle of coolant - it needed the lot to top up my radiator to get home! My car's been in and out of the mechanics a little recently and they say it's fine, probably just couldn't handle the heat on the day (was about 27deg, so maybe 32 on the track?). I'm gonna get a better radiator and put in my PFC and FMIC and try again. We didn't time, but Dereck guessed I was doing 1.18-1.19 in his GTR. 4WD is such a different ballpark to RWD eh. If only I'd driven one beforeI got the GTST. Then I'd be living on baked beans to keep it running Oh well, had fun!!! I reckon everyone should go out with Dereck (5th gear) at least once, I learnt heaps and could see what others were doing wrong after only a short stint. But still heaps to improve so I'll go again for sure.

MUST.... BITE.... TONGUE!

Time for a lock and other little arrangements. What's the best wheel lock on the market? And a site or something to back up the claim... Preferably something that takes 10 seconds or less to fit/remove (by me, not a thief!) and can fit in a glovebox, or under the front seat/similar. My bro had a cheapy from Supercheap and it fell apart on him!

Gun metal Stagea pulling into Jamo about an hour ago. Your tint was too dark to wave, wouldn't know if I got it back

Nope. Part of the reason I bought them - the last ones squealed all the time. Hot or cold. These maybe give a little sigh when really cold on a first few breaks, but after that, nothing. It's probably also related to the rotors you use too.

Oh well nm... scored a PFC+HC for 850. Sweet! I'll keep an eye on this though, as it's interesting to see who will take the lead and become the next *currently-manufacturer supported* ECU of choice. Plus if I go completely nuts later, might need to use MAP instead