sl33py

It's nerdy, but cool: Mario Tetris.. ahh memories

Gday widebody32: From memory of the phone call - it's 400 to reco the rack, but 700 if the pinion is buggered, or something about leaking (which he suspects), and 120 for each tie rod end. I think that's fitted.

Rode in this thing yesterday. It goes hard, but drives like a kitten when just pottering around. Good luck!

Haha.. oh well, it's a decision we all have to make sooner or later. I plan to drive mine until fossil fuels become illegal Having said that, only 20 minutes ago, I just found out my steering rack is munted and needs reconditioning/fixing, and it's tie rod ends are buggered as well. Another 1k into the black hole!

Hmm yeah something like that. Man... having a hard time finding yesterday's weather! Not even on BOM - Maybe I'm blind.

Even though I couldn't stick around for the whole day yeah was great fun! Thanks John/a20089. as Adam said, good to catch up with the people we've met previously, and meet new ppl - Luke et al. Yeah the big screen made it more social, instead of cramming in and craning your neck to see a tiny CRT on a desk Wish my car was ready, but at any rate I'll definitely go back there for a run when it is. Very nice setup at Ultimate Tunes. Also good to see that (assuming my car runs as it did last time), it's pretty healthy compared to other R33s Hope those who can will post their runs as suggested above! The R31 was impressive (think Jester was suprised as well from his response "WTF is THAT??!" hahah), a20089 - did you catch the dyno guys choking with all the fuel in the room? hahaha And what was emblem on the front of the Liberty that looked like and L and then another upside down L underneath it? Some japanese badge? Time for an avatar change Adam? heheh - thanks for the quick spin! Edit: haha changed your avatar before I could correct my typo

Yeah I can't run my car tomorrow. Will orgnaise it for another day when it's all in one piece :| I'll only be watching.

My car's in a whole lot of pieces at the moment. Took it in Monday for some work but now looking like I may not get it back by the end of today (ugh). I might have to ring up and book a postponed run too. Which sucks cos it won't be as much fun doing it on my own. Might see if I can get a friend go with me on Saturday, even if I don't have my car... *fingers crossed*

Will give you a buzz very shortly mate! Edit: Oh... stock. Mine aint stock, but it's got similar specs, just rated a little higher. It's easy to drive like a stocker.

Just on the way home from Civic to Belco in gf's car: Gunmetal grey R32 GTR, orange R33, maroon R33 all going past the convention centre. White R33 and silver R33 on Belco Way.

Give Trojan a bash if you don't have luck at the first place you try.

Saw a dark grey R32 with white Rays wheels in the Civic carpark near the pool yesterday.

Also make sure it's not just your coilpacks arcing. Take the plastic cover off the top of the engine, drive around hard at night until it's making the noises, then pull over and (carefully) look into the engine to try to see little sparks grounding themselves to the block. If it does it at stationary, it might be easier to recreate.

hehe race_snooze, yeah took your advice from a while ago on board. John reckoned the 2530 might be a bit too responsive too, even though he's proud of his work on ur car Bullet32, yeah definitely! Thanks - the more cars I can try (and know how it roughly compares to either of the turbos mentioned above), the better to help make the choice. You'll be able to tell who I am on the day - snooping what everyone's got and looked and their dyno runs hahah Anyone other takers?

lol Baconer, sounds like you have it pretty easy I'm at home (ugh) and I pay $500/month, and they increase it each year (26yo, getting out soon!) As for what bugs me: Mismanagement at work and resulting wasted time/resources. Won't name the gov department, but I'm not surprised they are way over budget and way behind schedule.

I had MAZ1's on mine for about 3 months. While they were way better than the Falken 326 before (put on by the dealer), I wouldn't choose Maxxis again. They seemed to "let go" way too early during any kind of spirited driving, much earlier than I expected them to. While feedback is good, I don't think they should have been losing their grip so early. I swapped them off after about 2 months cos they were out of round. I've now got Toyo T1R's and they hold on much longer before giving the same kind of squeals/feedback. Having said that, I think there are probably better performing tyres for the money than Toyo. I'll be looking at Bridgestone Potenzas or maybe Hankook somethingorather next. Or Michelin Pilot Sports if I win lotto

When I'm in reverse and moving slowly, my clutch goes "clack clack clack" if I'm not giving it enough revs... that's cos of a light flywheel though. It's not that right?

Hey guys/gals, Trying to decide whether to get a HKS GTRS or 2835ProS kit for my R33 GTST. Anyone got either of these installed? I've done a lot of reading and PM'ing but want to see how they actually feel/drive - how responsive they are compared to each other and my stock turbo. Probably only need 10 minutes and don't even expect to drive it, would be happy as passenger I'll be at the dyno day on the 22nd (see thread). Best reached by PM. Cheers in advance! Ben.

I saw this car the other night. One blip of the go pedal and the car literally shat a puddle of fuel out onto the tarmac lol. Ouch. John, like I said the other day, I've had my car at like... 5 places (and multiple times each) to try and solve suspension woes. I know you paid a lot, but like others have said, when all's said and done, if they are too retarded to fix it, and spining you BS lines, I wouldnt be going back! I went back to Jax Quickfit like 6 times (because they had a satisfaction guarantee) before realising I was wasting my time because they are clueless. Cut your losses and try John @ Trojan He's had one of his personal cars in HPI, he's a heck of a lot closer than Sydney... Hell, he might even look at it for free/cheap and give u his idea of what's wrong, if you're REALLY keen for the Sydney tuner to fix it. I've used this method when I deserve something to be fixed by the place I bought it, but they were simply too unskilled to see the problem.

If you mean is it twin, no, it's just one thick pipe. If you mean is it in sections... dunno. If the installation manual says that, my mechanic can read it, and should be fine Cool @ kick, sounds good to me

Cool fresh, let us know how it goes! What ECU?

I'd like to see as many ppl as possible populate this site: http://sau.garagespank.com/ It's easier to directly compare dyno runs to each other.

I see. I've already got a non stock dump pipe - I've got 3" from the turbo back, it's just my cat being replaced soon to a high flow unit. Does this mean I can't use the hks dump pipe if you say it fits with 3.5" ? Different size.... When you say "KICK" do you mean it steps out a lot, or you mean more like 'bang for buck'? (Can continue this in PM land if you like). I'm after reasonably smooth power delivery. Interestingly, RMS just gave me an amazing quote for the GT2835 ProS kit (only a few hundred over the best "landed" price from an O/S vendor), but also said this is the only kit for the R33 GTST "at the moment". I assume that meants only "available" right now, cos nengun has 3037 kits and GTRS kits listed.

Thanks for the suggestions re Garrett, but I'm way keener on a kit I can just give my mechanic and let him setup, even if it requires a little fiddling around on his part. I can't be a55ed chasing up the individual parts and I don't know enough to be 100% sure I'll get the right bits anyway. Oops, right you are @ quoting just the turbine price. I've got a single 3" dump pipe, guess my mechanic will have to change it for the 2835 kit. [Michael]: yep, good point I didn't actually think cat's made that big a difference! I'm about to fit a Metalcat to mine and the mechanic said it's good for maybe 10rwkw. So I figured it was in the airbox/pod category WRT power increase (ie not much). Will get a better idea in a fortnight when I dyno the car and the only difference since last time will be splitfires, lightened flywheel and a new cat. Was 151rwkw, expecting MAYBE 10rwkw better at most from the combination. Any more and I'll be surprised! RE 2835 making less torque, I think the person who told me actually meant a little more lag, not torque, you are right, there shouldn't be much difference and lag doesn't last long on any of these turbos really Lithium: this is the graph that made me think GTRS had more power, I can't remember where exactly I found it, I bookmarked it and found it again at a later date haha: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=16353 I can now see that the 2835 is actually rated higher, and a few PMs and posts on here confirm that there must be something screwy going on with this graph, as it isn't representative of their power, if fitted to the same engine, same boost level etc. I'm liking the sound of the 2835 Pro S the more I read. If as grepin said, it starts running out of puff at about 310rwkw, then it should handle the 260 or so that I (now) think I should aim for. If I can get more, great. I've more or less settled on the 2835, I've got another question: I know higher boost is harmful to the engine, but what boost level is TOO high? Does it depend on the turbo? I reckon it DOES depend on the cooling and intake system at the very least, cos I've read many times that colder air in means u can use higher boost. What level of boost do you reckon the 2835 will need to hit 260? If it does 310rwkw on 20psi, then maybe 15psi? Can it even be guesstimated like that, or should I shut up now and just ask my mechanic

OK ardie I've seen those dynos and read the corresponding threads. I'm 95% interested in HKS purely because they come with the whole kit and kaboodle and my mechanic says he prefers to fit them cos they are easier with all the parts and no fabrication required. The last 3% is name and just in case they are for some reason better. So I'm mostly going off things like dyno's and ppl's experiences on here Don't think that I'm just going for the name, so no real need for the 'at least 30 extra rwkw' comment I think it was the fact that I saw a few GTRS and 2835 setups running very close to 300rwkw that confused me a bit. I honestly haven't thought too much about the boost levels much, other than the point I raised above. Your dyno sheet looks good. I'm very interested to know what RPM your turbo hits when you've moved off from the lights and plant it in second, and also if it steps out unexpectedly (well.. I guess you'd be used to it now, but you know what I mean - will it catch me unawares during daily driving - btw I'm gonna do some advanced driver courses very soon before any power upgrades). I also didn't realise the cams and headwork were possibly having so big an impact on their performance as you indicate. I won't be doing those things in the near future. I guess the next question is, as above: difference between the 3037 kits, and which housing combinations to choose? I found this: the Pro S is internally gated. And something about the "anti surge comp housing" (beyond my technical knowledge now) is different too. Edit again: found out that the 3037 Pro S version is (according to discopotato) designed to run specifically on the RB engine. The other versions aren't explicitly designed for it. At least, that's my understanding of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=180172 Holy shamoly, Mercury Motorsport sell the 3037 for $6870! Nengun is MILES better. I wonder how close someone local could go. I'd guess about $3500 at best... how safe are turbo kits in the mail?? Bah... mind's in turmoil again: Just received a PM supporting the 2835 Pro S pretty strongly. They pointed out they I said I'm after maximum useable torque on the street and or track (if/when I go). Also said the GTRS will have a bit more low end PUNCH than the 2835, and significantly more than the 3037. They own a GTRS and said if they could choose again, they'd sacrifice a bit of low end (as said above, noone races/drives hard below 3K!!) and get a 2835 Pro S, as the middle ground I suppose. This also sounds a more promising choice now I've seen that the 3037 is definitely not in the same ballpark when bought from local suppliers. This thread has been very helpful so far Pointed out a few things I wasn't aware of!