sl33py

Wolverine, when you say 'if I could choose again' are you talking about with the Stagea, or with a R33 GTST? or would it count for both? Although I'm going to buy locally (for warranty and being able to just throw it back at someone and say 'fix!'), I'm using nengun et al for prices, and the GTRS kit and 2835 Pro S kits are only about 100 bucks difference, delivered. While I'm sure both will be at least 600-700 more locally, I doubt there's 1k difference, unless you know of a place that can sell for much lower on the GTRS than the 2835 for some particular reason. "that would make it worthwhile looking at a correctly specced GT3071 or GT3076" - are you saying the HKS aren't correctly specced? Or that if I looked at those Garretts, I'd need to choose the right parts etc? These Garrett turbos don't come with all the associated kit... regardless of the price, I've more or less decided to get HKS something, mostly because they come with all the kit needed (so less install fee for me, no fabrication etc), plus just in case there actually IS something in the HKS over the Garrett. The latter is only a small part of it though, cos if the Garrett's included the full kit and HKS didn't, I'd probably just as easily go with them. I think for simplicity's sake I'll just look at HKS from now on. So from what wolverin said, it seems the 2835 Pro S can give a bit more power than a GTRS, and the spool up time difference would be a tad longer but possibly negligible. OK, so where does the 3037S and (oh god, another model lol) the 3037 Pro S fit compared to the 2835 Pro S. Obviously more potential for power, they're rated higher. But If I'm aiming for an easy/safe 260-280rwkw, which will be better and why? I read some ppl like SydneyKid saying choose the turbo that will allow you to use the lowest boost possible to get the power you want, but then I read others saying HKS turbos prefer boost levels at the higher end of their operating range (or whatever the proper term is). The 3037 kits are ~$200 or ~$400 vs the 2835 Pro S, so they are definitely an option too if they will perform better for my particular aims. Edit: I've removed the fuel regulator from the plan

Oops gotcha. What about the HKS turbo ratings? They're at the wheels like I think, right?

740cc for 250-260? Isn't that high? Everyone I described my goals to said I only need 555cc... Good idea, I'll try my local section and see if anyone has any of these kits installed that I can ride in. I'll (re)read your results thread WARLORD. While torque and smoothness is important, I'd be cut as a mad snake if I bought one of these kits and it only got me 230 odd rwkw. There are ppl getting aroung with highflows with that kind of power for a lot less money. I know nothing is certain with these engines, but I would be haha I think it's only worth me getting a kit if it puts me well and truly in the 260-280rwkw area, OR if it will do the job MUCH better in some other way over a highflow. I think the safety of the tune and how hard the turbo itself will be pushed comes into it here... While I go looking for locals with them, can someone tell me from personal experience how any two of these turbos compare on similar setup cars? I only need relative seat o the pants feelings, then I can figure out "GTRS tends to come on boost faster the 3037, but doesn't give a much power, and the 2835ProS takes a little longer than the GTRS to spool up (so.. less torque), but peaks out at higher kW, and at a lower RPM and on lower boost"... or something like that. I don't think many ppl in Canberra would have exposure to more than one of these kits. Going to a dyno day in two weeks, will see what the guys/gals there say too.

This is the graph I referred to earlier: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=16353 But now I look at JustJap, the GTRS is rated to 400PS (~294kw) and the 2835ProS is rated to 420PS (~308). So there must be some other variables involved with that graph which make it work out differently. I can't remember how I got to that graph link (waaay too much surfing, 100 firefox tabs at once, mostly SAU hahaha). Does anyone know who produced it, and why it might differ from what you'd expect going by the numbers? 2835ProS is back on the cards I think there's simply a "2835" kit and its in the graph, and the one seen on JustJap is the ProS? The Pro S is rated to 420PS (going by JustJap), but the "2835" is only rated to 380PS (going by http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/..._gt/ac_gt.html). According to all the HKS power vs response graphs, the GTRS responds quicker, but the 2835 can do a bit more power, as shown here http://importscene.com.au/prod792.htm but then THIS one (go to http://www.hks-power.co.jp/ then click turbos) shows the GT Sports kit Pro (the range the 2835 belongs to) as being better in power AND response. The HKS ratings MUST be at the wheels, cos if you take the 2835Pro and go 420PS(308kW) x 0.75ish (drivetrain loss) = 230kw, but just going through the RB25 dyno thread, ppl have gotten anywhere from 220rwkw to 290ish! HKS must rate them for rwkw power... it's the only explanation. But then some have pulled ~300rwkw with a GTRS on 1.38bar ... supposedly the lower power rated turbo! Who reads Japanese? Tell me what the jap HKS site says I can't find much info on the USA HKS site I know absolute power shouldn't be the deciding factor, but i don't want it to limit me to say 250rwkw... I could just go get a highflow if I wanted that. Which of these will give good response, smooth delivery, and torque I can use on the street (without the car going sideways all the time) and also at the very occasional visit to Wakefield?

I'm still liking HKS simply for nearly straight-swap factor. I wanna know more about how the 3037 would run, setup to for 270-280rwkw and on the street. I really don't want a turbo that's gonna kick out suddenly on me, I like a little linearity - think stock turbo linearity but just much more oomph through the range! How would I get that? Cams I think haha. Anyway, whose got a 3037? What boost are you running, how hard does it hit compared to a stock turbo? And how much laggier is it? I've seen the few examples I've been linked to, but would love a few more ppl's opinions, just in case the few examples I've got are odd ones out. There's a graph somewhere, I've got it bookmarked at home (will update this post with it later), that shows a bunch of HKS turbos. The GT2835 and GTRS perform very well (with the GTRS having more torque earlier on, and more linear, and more or less the same up power up top). The GTRS also seemed to max out at a bit higher than the 2835, which runs at odds with the last post. I'd like to know where the 3037 would fit in the grand scheme of things. Unfortunately, the graph didn't say if it was on the same car, or boost levels, so I guess it's next to useless

Edit: Just realised the Garretts are only sold as turbos by themselves and you need to get all the surrounding parts to suit. Regardless of which is 'better', this is an argument for the HKS kits in my opinion. While I've never been completely sold that Garrett or HKS is better than the other, it's seemed to me that once you add all the surrounding bits needed for a turbo, a Garrett isn't very far ahead in price (haven't done the numbers, but it's a strong impression I get from several posts I've read over time). Anyway, I think I'll discount the 2835, cos I saw a post by grepin here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=hks+3037 saying it was badly running out of puff at 310rwkw on 20psi. While I'm only going for 270-280, I don't want the turbo working too hard. So it's down to GTRS vs 3037! Just need to figure out how hard the 3037 kicks and how well it behaves on the street now.

FPR is a fuel regualator. I had that in the list from when I was looking at modding in two stages, the first stage didn't have injectors, hence the need for the regulator I think... or maybe the fact that my tuner has a few R33's running around with 300rwkw on stock injectors and a rising rate regulator. Irrelevent I guess, if I do it all at once. He also says it's "chalk and cheese" between the Garrett and the HKS, mostly with respect to the response of the turbo. I won't pretend to know why. I should ask eh haha. Anyway, I'm reading your thread now though. No worries at the similar questions from others! 280rwkw seems to becoming the popular goal now. I guess that's because a rebuild is a more certain thing after 300rwkw. On that note: I have to admit I drive my car like a granny compared to some others hahah. I've only redlined a few times in nearly 3 years, most recently when I got the new flywheel and it revved through the range much quicker than I was used to. Other than that, I usually shift 1k from redline at most! Oil changed every 5thou kms. I look after it and intend to keep it until it fossil fueled vehicles become outlawed! My mechanic said 280rwkw is pretty safe and I've seen several cars (well looked after though!) getting around after a few years of ~260rwkw and no signs of problems. I intend to get my mechanic to do compressions tests etc etc to see how healthy the car is to start with. No point modding it if it's weak to start with (unless I rebuild it stronger first.... hmmm). I can get a HKS GTRS kit for ~2780 (locally!). Does the Garrett equivalent work out much cheaper? Already seems pretty cheap for a whole kit... Hey, u got a nice curve there! What conditions did you have that made it kick out so hard on the street, compared to what you show in this dyno? Cos that dyno doesn't look like something that would put you sideways as readily as you said (driven with some sense of course... any car can do it if driven stupidly).

Cheers, read that thread already - that's what gave me the impression that the 3037 would be under-utilised and/or running outside it's ideal efficiency etc. Steve also commented that boost came on too early and too hard for street use on anything over 1.2 bar... and that only gave him 256rwkw. I guess another requirement for me is that the power is relatively smooth, it'll be 95% road driven, with a few visits to the track (sudden boost won't be useful for either of these). I quite like the power delivery as the car is, just want More

First of all: I've read the turbo swap thread! I didn't QUITE find the answer I'm looking for. I've seen 3 or 4 graphs of these turbos, but not being a mechanic and knowing that half of the dyno results are in the tune and based on the supporting mods, I'm still not sure which to get. I believe they all cost similar, so price isn't the issue. I just want the most suitable turbo. My mechanic said they will both be close, but couldn't tell me for sure (off the top of his head) how one would differ from the other. I've got an R33 GTST S2. Engine mods: turbo back 3" exhaust w/Metalcat, K&N panel filter, splitfires, RDA rotors & EBS redstuff, new shocks(Bilstein)/springs(Whiteline)/bushes/sways, Xtreme Custom clutch good for 300rwkw, Xtreme light flywheel, T1R tyres. My main aim is really good response, combined with as much USABLE power as I can get, but only up to ~280-290rwkw. I don't want to risk the engine's bottom end and a rebuild. Even if I do that later, it'll be because I won lotto and don't care about money any more, so I won't mind having to ditch this turbo. But for now, I want it to be the most suitable for my current aim. Just to confuse things, my mechanic/tuner suggested the HKS 3037 because "it has more potential". I read that HKS turbos are designed to be run with reasonably high boost, and I don't want to buy and under-utilise a 3037 if it's actually intended for higher power (he says it's good for 320rwkw, which I don't need). I'll be getting the following support stuff: Fuel pump, 555cc injectors, decent quality FMIC (600x300x76), FMIC, piping to keep the stock airbox (decided this after HEAPS of reading & I can avoid the induction noise), Haltech E11V2 (yes, maybe overkill, but it'll future proof me), stock BOV modded to suit (tuner does it for 100 bucks). Might also get Poncams to give a bit more torque, budget and insanity allowing at the time I pull the trigger. For a safely tuned 280rwkw (possibly a smidge more on a track day w/extra boost), which turbo would you guys/gals recommend? I foresee this being IT for modding the car, until I buy a house etc so wanna get it right. How do these turbos differ fundamentally, if at all? I'm not up on the whole exit housing size etc, even though I've tried reading and understanding it. Whose driven/ridden in cars with these? Trying to find out if one is found to give typically better response than the other or if one is more likely to run out of puff before 280kw. PS please don't recommend Garrett (my mechanic likes HKS much more) or a high flow (won't give enough power). I'm trying to NARROW my options down now, not widen them haha From the limited number of graphs and a few PMs, I'm leaning towards the GTRS as they seem to give good response, but some graphs indicate that the 2835 would be very close in performance too. If there's a thread comparing these turbos directly, pls link me! I couldn't find it. Thanks in advance.

Depends if your building stronger or simply rebuilding, but I think it's 4k>6k in parts, 2k in labour?? Guessing. But a 100% accurate answer: Lots.

If you keep your GTST, just make sure you get the vented bonnet and flared guards, before you get it dyno'ed! They help No really: think about what you have to drive every day. I could have bought an older GTR for what I paid for my R33 GTST, but I like climate control and 1/100th of the road noise etc. Plus if this car really IS stock as a rock, you should probably replace ALL the suspension bushes and stuff (like 2K worth) because if they are the original items, they will be p1ss p00r by now! Having said that, I've gotta replace my cradle bushes cos they are already shot (which surprised my mechanic) Think about this: can ANYONE on this forum honestly say they bought a skyline (ANY vintage) and didn't have to spend more than just a few hundred bucks on it within the first year? DON'T buy a car if it's gonna leave you with nothing. Maybe it's better the devil you know

Cool, that has everything! Looks like I won't have to ask for anything in particular

Cristian: Cool, I'll remind you. I agree leech, but the only mod I've got is full exhaust/cat and it's been running healthy for the past 2 years (yes!: *yawn*), so chances of overboosting are pretty much zip More interested in torque this time. When I do my first proper mod (ECU in the next 6 months), then I'll wanna know AFRs again

Cristian, RE the printouts - I've seen some with kW/AFR/Nm plotted against RPM and speed. Engine speed doesn't really mean too much to me (mechanical neophyte), whereas RPM does. And the last dyno I had was kW + AFR vs RPM. Ideally I'd like kW + Nm vs RPM. Car's stockish, so don't care about boost, feels like it's holding fine to redline. Is that a viable combo? Cheers, Ben

You rock up, make sure you're paid up, get a place on the list, make sure you line up ur car when it's meant to be dyno'ed, stand back and watch them rev. Get your print out (I've never seen a dyno day without print-outs, please confirm John), you look at your printout and go 'hey! xxx kw, not bad!' and then 1 week later you wonder what you can do for more power

Hey John, I spoke to you about half an hour ago I'm in with my R33 GTST, and I *might* talk my brother into bringing his Integra VTIR. Will send the moola shortly!

RE having a remapped ECU making life easier: What's the point of having the Emanage at all if you're best using it with a remapped stock ECU anyway? Do you mean that it gives you a headstart that gets you past the limits of the ECU's adjustments? Cos that's exactly what I want to know: based on a stock ECU+Emanage, how far can you go? Just reading the manual for the Emanage now. For low impedance injectors, it says 'dropping resistors' are needed in the signal path between the ECU and the injectors. Could this be related to coilpacks getting fried? People just not putting the extra resistances in? Sounds like a similar effect to the guy who said he put zener diodes in - that's also stopping part of the voltage signal getting through to the coils.

I have a manual R33 GTST SII, which is more or less stock engine wise. Upratede clutch, splitfires (originals arc'ed), turbo back exhaust & high flow cat. I've got two goals: 1) Maintain as much 'factory quality' driveability as possible. IE economy when driving sedately, cold start, stable idle, AC & NVCS still working. 2) More power (duh!) I want an ECU (standalone/otherwise) that can take me up to ~280rwkw as I fit new parts. (basing that number on the strength of the RB25 bottom end). After that, I dunno if I'd spring for the bottom end rebuild to keep going. I plan on getting a HKS GTRS or 3037, fuel pump/reg, FMIC plus associated bits. Some questions: 1) Is there a maximum power this ECU can give, irrespective of the car? Or is it determine by what engine/parts combo it's presented with? If the Emanage can't go to 270-280rwkw at all, the following questions may not need answers... 2) I've read several times that the Emanage can only adjust the injectors up to 150% of original 150%. Does that mean that they will only do 150% of the stock injectors and that's IT, or does it mean that if I put in 555cc injectors, that 150% 'range' is larger again? My mechanic says I need 555cc for 280rwkw, so I need to figure this out, as I think 555cc is over the 350cc or whatever stock is. 3) I think earlier in this thread (or another, I've lost it now) I read that Greddy have plugin kits for the RB25DET. Is this true? I know that earlier on people were modifying the R33 GTR plugin units to suit RB25's... still necessary? I really hope it's just a plugin affair for the RB25. 4) The fried coilpacks problem: Assuming Revision E is the latest hardware, and using latest firmware/software combination, is this issue fixed? Or are people still making up home-made zener diode jobbies for the ignition harness? The primary reasons I'm keener on EManage than the others: PFC - don't wanna buy something so hard to obtain, still requires MAF Motec > $$$$ for parts, $$$ for tune! Autronic > $$$ & very involved tuning, preferred tuner (ACT) never installed/tuned one before (risky...). Wolf - empty promises RE firmware functionality for every ECU released so far. Microtech - $, 3 PMs I got talking about 300kms/tank and not batting an eyelid. WTF, I get 400 with 'easy' driving! Haltech - $, Maybe ok, dunno how 'nice' engine will run vs factory though, involved tuning too. If the Emanage can do the power I'm after (~300rwkw or thereabout, URAS got on his RB26, but then that's a different engine...), and it's as easy as everyone says to tune (when the wiring etc is done PROPERLY, re coilpacks etc), then I'll probably try it out, especially since it's relatively cheap compared to the other choices. Can I get some definite answers to those questions? Thanks.

Yes, it's more noticeable in neutral and just free revving it, but I've got a buttload of sound deadening and a big sub box, and I could PLAINLY tell the difference during normal driving. I could accelerate faster - It was night and day, hence why I redlined well before I was expecting to (after having driven the car in the same configuration for 2 years, I had a good feel for when I had to change, and I usually change about 2k BEFORE redline. That's gotta say something! And because of my sound deadening, I'm sure it's not having as big effect as it does on a car that's been lightened in other ways! I would agree with others though, it's not worth doing unless the clutch is being opened up anyway, otherwise there are definitely cheaper ways to (initially) go faster.

I lightened mine when getting a new clutch. I believe this is how it works, tell me if I'm wrong. While you don't get any extra power, if you have 230rwkw (and let's say that's 280atf), then with a lightened flywheel, you'll still have 280atf, but you might have 234-235kw actually reaching the tyres because less energy is lost in the drivetrain. When I got mine installed, I accidentally redlined it in second the first time I planted from a dead holt to 100kph, cos I was used to changing by feel and timing, but because the engine went through the rev range quickly, she bounced lol. I like the feel of it, in fact so much that I'm interested in lightening other parts of the drivetrain to get more of the power I'm already making to the ground. Seems like a relatively cheap way to maximise use of the powr you're making and I plan to go nuts later RE power, so I will want to do it sooner or later.

Haha just saw this again! Old thread, but still have the same problem. Thought I might update it in case one day someone suffers the same problems. @ above: Nope, I don't have spacers. Anyway, since posting here, I've had the wheels balanced and aligned about 5 or 6 times at various places. My rears were found to be both pointing to the right, so it was like having the back of a turned forklift on the car. I had a front camber kit (I think) fitted to help cancel some pulling to the left I had, because there was more camber on the RHS, meaning it was like I was on a permanent camber tilted to the left. But I've still got the steering wheel shakes. At low speeds, It's a mere shiver, which has passed under the eye of many a "tyre guy" either unnoticed or "that's just the road mate". But sometimes (can't recreate the conditions reliably ), the steering wheel just shaking violently left and right, and it doesn't represent how rough the road is at the time. It sometimes does it badly on very flat freeway. I took it to another place and they found that my car was on its front bumpstops. So I got new shocks, springs and bumpstops all round from SydneyKid's groupbuy (I kind of felt like an upgrade anyway, and didn't want the front and rear geometry messed up). So now it handles pretty darn nice on corners etc with not much roll at all now, but... it STILL shakes. So we put it up on the rack and had a VERY good look at all the bushes. We found that the front steering rack mount bushes were shot. And also my rear cradles bushes are munted. Mechanic said he'd never seen them in this condition on just a 10yo car, usually on R32's, so he was pretty surprised. He found some more bushes he couldn't say for sure were fine. I've had this wheel shake problem for nigh on one year now, and it's really bugging me now, so I said "if in doubt, swap it out". I don't have the list on me, so I might mess up some of the terms/names here, but basically we're changing every single bush in the suspension except for the ones at the top on the front (mechanic doesn't know of replacements you can get for them), and the ones which I think hold the rear steering rack where it joins to the wheel. I'm also getting a HICAS locker. Also getting adjustable rear camber rods. That's all ordered (one part apparently is made from scratch and takes 2 weeks) and it should be fitted within 3 weeks. Mechanic said after this, there really isn't anything else that can be replaced, so I'm REALLY hoping this fixes the shaking. Sure, it handles nice overall at the moment, but when I feel like an old man cos of the shakes after driving, it's not much of a consolation My mechanic said my car is still one of the smoothest he's driven (and he's had lines in HPI, so he's seen a fair few), but when I first bought this car, I could do 180kph and barely even feel any untoward shaking/shivering in the wheel compared to what I do now. I don't mind feeling the road (feedback) through the wheel, but it's gotta represent what's under me at the time, not crazy random shaking! And I won't even go into how much all this troubleshooting has cost me, cos at this point it's just me VS the car until I get it sorted, I run out of money and go bankrupt, or I run out of patience and drive it off a cliff! Will update this with developments as they happen. One day I'll get to power upgrades...

Cool I just got mine back today. It's been so long since I've driven it, but the problems it went in with have gone away. So far it drives well!

Un(spotted): My silver R33 S2 (YDT...) being at Trojan just short of 2 months now (!!!) I know I asked for some parts to be ordered which added another 7-10 days, but far out - two months. :\ Never been this long without the car. I'm wondering if something untoward has happened and they are looking for something similar-looking in Japan to import to give back to me instead Anyone been out that way getting serviced and noticed it hanging around? </RANT> Anyway, I think the guys are doing their best... must just be (VERY) busy, I'm just missing it...

Yeah I learnt from it alright: Respect the car's authoritah! Found out today: yep, left rear hubs munted, also the lower control arm. Rest looks ok. They mentioned the cradle which scared me a bit, but said it was fine. Apparently my other bits (shocks etc) should arrive Friday/Monday. They've got a plastic welder/painter etc nearby they use a lot and I've given them the go ahead for everything, I just want it safe to drive and back on the road. So with any kind of luck I'll have it back later next week/early the following.

Actually I just got a lift home from Trojan... turns out the bar is the least of my worries, the left rear hub is buggered, and that's what they could tell just from looking, there will probably be more At least the bar can apparently be fixed, doesn't need replacing.