sl33py

I occasionally chat to Affy and his mate Marcus in my work's car park. Nice guys, and knowing what his friend knows, I fully expect Affy's 'line to go very fast, very soon!! Welcome

OUCH. Sounds like much of my 'small' problems that show up or uncover much more expensive stuff.

Price drop

So you're worried about the Skyline being stolen where you're moving... but not a Typhoon or Evo 9???

Who saw the Suzuki Swift hooning around and having to constantly wait for the black Monaro to get its 5h1t together? I was in the swift Aching arm from all the handbraking now hahaha but man that thing was fun, just enough power and lightweight to bring it around after a quick flick. As my gf says (it's her car): "Go Swifty!"

I'll be getting a clutch put in by Trojan soon, kinda using it as a toe in the water for future work. Got a good price for labour compared to other places. I knew I'd found the right place when I saw in the carpark: line, line, line, soarer, line...

Whether you buy from online or go local, I recommend talking to Woody at City Custom Exhaust, he's a champ and knows what he's talking about. He'd happily fit anything you supply. Haven't had any luck with Roadway. I took a Civic there from which some idiot had removed the flex section of the exhaust. Instead of knowing or figuring out that Civic's are transverse engines and need a section of flex, they just welded it up again which of course came loose soon after, making me think I had some crazy stuff happening. And that's with a LOCAL car. Woody figured it out in 1 minute flat. I wouldn't take an import there unless you are supplying them with all the parts, they gave the cheapest quote and you can check the work yourself. RE legality in volume, I agree with someone above: last I heard/read, it was 90dB measured from the rear of the car, from the opposite corner to where the actual exhaust canon/whatever is. DON'T let them jam it up IN the exhaust! Seen that happen before and of course it doesn't pass... heaps of standard cars wouldn't pass if measured that way.

It might be what I have. My mech said I've got a busted bolt in the clutch near the throw-out bearing. When you have the hold the car at the catch-point in reverse and then 'jockey' it on and off power a little bit (so yes, the car will jerk), the transfer of weight makes a sharp 'clack clack' noise that sounds driveline related. On the little arm that has the throw-out bearing on the end, there are two small wires/arms holding a ball-ended bolt. Apparently this bolt can snap, but the clutch still works fine, it just makes a god awful noise. For me. it is most easily heard in the situation above, but I can also hear it in the changes between 1st/2nd and 2nd/3rd, particularly if I'm a bit rough and let the clutch out a bit too fast.

I just rang up a spare parts place to get a replacement motor and they told me there are TWO stepper motors for the AC! A higher one and a lower one. So..... seeing as noone here as differentiated between them (let alone mention there are two), I had to spring for both, cos I'm getting my stereo guy to fix it, and I don't to pay for him to replace one, only to find it's the other and that he has to go in again. One motor has 8 teeth and the other has 10.. or something like that. Both cost me $125.

If it's the same noise I hear in my car (about to be fixed I hope), my mechanic says it's common in R33s... There are two lengths of thick wire on the arm thing with the throw-out bearing (forgive the incorrect/lame names), and in between those wires, there is a screw with a ball-head on the end. Apparently the ball-end can snap off and the clutch can still do it's job just fine, but when you're in reverse with the clutch IN, and you let it come out to the catching point (especially while rolling backwards slowly), you'll hear it go *CLACK* *CLACK* with each press/release of the pedal - it's a really ugly noise. I hear it a little bit when changing gears too. The guy who installed this clutch for me has the same 5h1t in his car so he thought it was normal.. this other guy says most ppl don't even realise its a fault or bother to look for it. Lame. I should know in the next week or so if it is my problem for sure (clutch has to be changed anyway).

So is the clicking noise gone now? And how about the hesitation after changing gears? I'm waiting back for clutch availability but hoping you found this fixed it. If so, we're NOT crazy or paranoid!

updated price and contents of original post, now including the flywheel.

Oh OK, thanks for the info for everyone. Yeah it's cheap... esp when I think about what a generic (non-skyline) workshop charged me to put it in I should have waited.

OK so in the Fuel Injector Worksheet I chucked in (top to bottom): 340, 6, 0.6, 0.5 and 37 (2.55x14.5) and got 73.73lb/hr and 775cc/min. Sounds a lot higher than the stock 330ish Hope I got that right. Interesting..

Well I trust this guy a lot more than the other choice I have. And he's only referred to real results he's had so far and everyone around here thinks he's good. Just wanted to check if there was anything I'd forgotten about or should budget for (eg fuel pump, hadn't thought of that), and then the whole turbo thing came up, which sorta made me wonder. Will ask him what he reckons about this stuff and see what he says, I'll most likely go with what he recommends, tempered by info gathered off here. EG the 2535 sounds better for me than the 2530. BTW how do I convery 3.0kg to PSIG? (or is that the wrong number in the wrong place)

Weird.. the mech said he can get 240-260kw from a 2530... So.... what if I had the money and want reliability etc AND want 250rwkw or so? What would I need to do. Enough work with the right parts and 250 should be reliable, right? I won't really know what to do if the mech says 'that's all horsecr4p' about what's been said on here He seems very well respected locally, so makes me think he can't be too wrong... Also, can someone explain how my calculations were wrong so I can figure out what PS I need from a HKS turbo. Grr more I learn the less I know

I'll ask the mech! Would these be side injectors or top ones that you're talking about? I think we discussed injectors (hence why he said he's got 300rwkw on stock) and he said that if you replace the injectors, it's best to make them the 'top' kind... I assume this stuff don't look so stock Doesn't matter really - if it's going to save the engine, I'll get it, or ask him to check up on it.

Thanks Steve, I'll mention that calculation when I ask the mech and see what he says. I don't want anything blowing up! Yeah... what your saying makes sense RE power. I don't see how an engine can make any more power overall than the turbo is rated for. On this site, I can't see the GTRS model. http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=706 Please note, I've only linked directly to a specific turbo, as in this view, it lists the available turbos down the left. But if you go to the comparison chart though, you CAN see the GTRS. wtf... Interestingly, the GTRS is rated for 400PS: I assume thats at the fly, and 400PS = ~294kw. And that comes down to about 220rwkw (x75% which I've found works well in general)... Still noticably short of what I want.. can you explain how this turbo would be good enough? Maybe I'm calculating wrong.

I read the PFC is good and started looking around for ppl to do it, but locally, the guy who is considered the best with PFC has rooted a few cars now and I've heard a few too many horror stories to take it there. I'm just doing what the general concensus was as far as ECU's: go with what your tuner recommends. I asked him if he can work with the PFC and explained the bad stories I'd heard about MC (ie bad economy and only good for WOT power, bad cold starts etc ect) and he said he knows the Microtech, and that he agrees the old ones were 5h1t, but that they've come leaps and bounds and he likes to work with them. The clutch is soon to be replaced with one rated for 300kw (have to check if that's rw or fly). He said for what a hiflow would cost me, he'd recommend a new turbo. I looked up on the HKS site - the GTRS2530 is rated for 320PS, which is about 235KW (dividing by ~1.36). Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that that mean it won't go above 235KW no matter other engine parts it's combined with... and is this why you say it's a bit small? What would you recommend instead (bearing in mind I don't want it sticking out like dogsballs, I hope to fit it under the stock heat shield, or at least a stockish-looking custom heatshield). This mechanic says he has several R33's running around town on stock injectors doing 300rwkw. I've heard arguments for and against this now, and need to discuss this with him further as I don't know enough to argue one way or the other myself. I was under the impression that the Microtech will be able to control boost electronically, but with PFC you need to add the boost kit. Also, with the PFC you need to add to Z32 meters (or similar) which cost. The Microtech apparently doesn't need any of that. Sounds like if I want to futureproof, I should go the FMIC, as if the above comments are correct, the SMIC will be limiting later if I want more power. While it will be a daily driver for now (say next 2 years), I definitely don't want to buy or do anything which will just need to be ripped out later. I've just had to replace the clutch (needed it and was in a bind) and now finding I'll need it again cos the clutch they gave me won't handle this kinda power, and I definitely want to avoid that kinda unnecessary spending in the future :| I like the idea of a shielded pod/similar filter (this mech recommend JR filters), and will discuss CAI with him. Thanks for the pointers so far. That comment about the turbo being too small has me concerned WRT my aims (to be honest, I really want 250rwkw).

Rightio, will do. Also, I'm hoping for a fair bit more power than 220atw. Hoping more like 250. Now I've got more options on the IC, need to read more on CAI as I like the idea a lot more than a SRI just gulping in warm engine air...

Damn, I have 3" turbo back, screwed up in the first post (fixed). Is that the stock GTR IC? Does it work the same or better than a Trust IC? I'll have to ask the mechanic what he thinks about it, thanks for the idea. Painting an IC will really attract heat? He didn't say anything about it when I suggested painting it... Again will have to ask. What do others think? Thanks for the suggestions. I was looking into hi-flowing the stock turbo but the mechanic said he is against hi-flow turbos cos the one he recommends is easy enough to fit, and according to him will perform much better for the money you pay ($1900 is about the best for a hiflow around here, he said the turbo is about $2500 to me, much of a muchness). @ fuel regulator, yeah he mentioned that but I forgot to include it in the list. From what you said, it sounds like a fuel regulator eliminite the need for new injectors, is that right? Got the fuel pump on the list.

I've got a stock R33 GTST SII (97). Had it two years now, all she's got is 3" exhaust from the turbo back, drop in K&N panel and Splitfires to replace the stock coils which were arcing badly. It pulls ~150rwkw on the dyno. Decided I wanna upgrade, with these considerations: 1) Stealth. I don't want heaps of attention 2) Reliability. This is my daily, so I need it to run every day without fail 3) Driveability. It can't be a horses a55 in traffic or temperamental in cold Canberra weather 4) Future proofing for other possible mods (mainly by using an ECU instead of a bleed valve) 5) Hopefully without completely killing my mileage. I currently use about 13-15L/100 with only 150rwkw regardless of how I drive, but I've heard of heaps of ppl with nearly double my power getting the same or only slightly worse mileage. I'll have the work professionally done. I've seen the dyno charts on here, read what I can, found a local mechanic I like, and he's recommended the following, which pretty much agree with, I'm just after a few other's opinions/pointers/gotcha's: 1) Microtech LTX12S ECU because my mechanic is most familiar with the newest units (he refused to use the old ones).. This will let me make whatever upgrades I like later on (futureproofing). 2) HKS GTRS2530. This is apparently a relatively simple swap from stock without too much buggering about, and can keep the original heatshield, which I like for discretion. 3) FMIC, I think it will be the Trust M-Type and painted black. 4) Possibly replacing some of the air intake piping with metal because he says the stock plastic expands and changes the performance characteristics for the worse. Plus he says metal will keep the air cooler. We haven't decided whether I need to do that or use a CAI or whatever, as he wants to leave it until the time to see what gains it will give and whether it's worth it. 5) Fuel pump. 6) Fuel regulator. He says on a very safe tune he should get 240-260rwkw out of it. Would you say this sounds right for a safe tune? What would a harder tune give? Someone told me that the stock injectors won't do well/give more than 220rwkw, but the mechanic says he's got 4 or 5 R33's on stock injectors with ~300rwkw. I'm not sure about boost levels or anything else, I forgot to ask him... I'm also pretty sure I'll be keeping the stock plumb-back. Is there anything else I should know, have left out, or not thought of, e.g. supporting mods like the fuel pump? I want to make sure I make the right decisions if I'm gonna throw a bunch of money at it. BTW, the car will soon have a clutch good for 300kw and it's already lowered an inch or so (not 'dumped').

Barely used (200kms) clutch to suit R33 or VL Commodore for sale. $300 ONO. Selling because of a major upgrade path I've decided on just days after the clutch was put in. I'm not 100% sure of the brand, but believe it's either a Daiken (Exedy) or a PVR. The guy at Dynotune Belconnon who installed it has the exact same clutch in his R33 with a high-flow and ~220rwkw, and it's been running strong for ages now with no issues. Only reason I'm selling it is for the reason above and I'm super paranoid and want everything way uprated and overkill for the upgrades. The clutch has 200-300kms on it at most, so it's pretty much new. In case your interested, my car is currently stock except for the exhaust, 150rwkw and driven pretty sedately. Knowing that the clutch will be swapped out shortly, I've been babying it to keep it in best condition. Some have said to me noone buys a second hand clutch, but since its literally got days on it I think it's a slightly different situation. And for the price I think it's worthwhile for someone even just as a backup. Best way of contacting me is by mobile: 0404 896 713, or PM. I'm in the ACT and pickup or near(ish) delivery works best for me, but if you want it shipped I can look into it, buyer would pay shipping costs. Keep in mind it's not actually out yet, but you can let me know you're interested and I can get back to you asap. I can link to my 100% positive eBay feedback if requested and you can see my trader rating on here (small, but good ). Turn my loss into your gain! Cheers.

Long story short: Barely used (200kms) PVR clutch plate, pressure plate and throw-out bearing to suit R33 or VL Commodore for sale. $300 ONO, shipped within AU. (NOTE: NOT THE FLYWHEEL, I want the option of changing back to stock later). Short story long: I recently had a new clutch in my car but stupidly didn't think ahead. In the past week I've decided to do some pretty big upgrades (ie aiming for 280rwkw+) in the coming months and have been told this would eventually be pushing it with this clutch. So, instead of driving it into the ground with the new power slowly killing it, I figure it's best to get it out asap and sell it to someone who can utilise it while it's still perfect! It's a good clutch for anyone with a stockish R33 or mild-medium mods. The guy who installed it has the same clutch in his R33 with ~220rwkw and it's been running strong for ages now with no issues. Only reason I'm selling it is for the reason above and I'm super paranoid and want everything way uprated and overkill for the upgrades. I'm waiting for a model name from the mechanic but I know it's a PBR. The clutch is as new/barely used, and the flywheel is in fine condition. In case your interested, my car is currently stock except for the exhaust, 150rwkw and driven pretty sedately. Knowing that the clutch will be swapped out shortly, I've been babying it to keep it in best condition. Some have said to me noone buys a second hand clutch, but since its literally got days on it I thought it's a slightly different situation. And for the price I think it's worthwhile for someone even as a backup. Best way of contacting me is by mobile: 0404 896 713, or PM. I can link to my 100% positive eBay feedback if requested and you can see my trader rating on here (small, but good ). Turn my loss into your gain! Cheers. edit: big price drop.

OK, I had a new mechanic look at and drive it today, and he reckons he knows what it is. He wanted to put it up on the hoist to confirm, so I'll go back in a few days time. But he reckons (watch out, incorrect part naming to follow, I'm no mechanic!): on the same little arm thing which has the "throw-out bearing" on one end, there is a pin that holds a bolt with a ball-end. He said it is not uncommon for that bolt to snap so that the pin is the only thing holding it there and for many mechanics to not realise the problem when working in the area. In fact the installer has the same car and clutch, so I'm sure he'll be over the moon to hear that he has a problem hahahah. And what happens is the pin makes a 'crack'ing noise when it smacks back into the ball-end. If this is the cause, I'll go back to the installer (Dynotune... don't ask) to get them to fix it for free. Coincidentally, I'm gonna get some upgrades in the coming months and this bloke also said the clutch won't be good enough for the power I'll make. Luckily he only charges $450 to go in and do clutch work. Anyone foresee the need for a spare clutch capable of ~210rwkw in the next few months? Would be fine for any stockish R33, mine has 150kw at the moment, but going for about 250kw or so.