sl33py

My 96 GTS-T gets VERY hot very easily. I noticed the other day coming back from work, so I took it for a drive to investigate today. I wanna know if this all sounds ok or if I need get it looked at: 1) Let engine warm up a bit, temp > 1/3 (2 minutes) A/C is OFF at this point. 2) Driving granny style around 60 zone, 1/2 (so now we're definitely warm) (10 minutes) 3) 80 zone, keeping off boost, temp at a bit over half (5 minutes) 4) 100 zone, hitting boost a bit now since on uphills and need to regain speed wiped off on corners, temp > 2/3 ( I start to worry about here) 5) come back to 60 zone, temp > just over half again 6) turn A/C on. Set to 18 (it's fairly hot out, about 26 degrees), temp > back up to 2/3 after a coupla minutes 7) A/C off cos I was worried bout the engine, temp > bit over 1/2 8) 100 zone and travel at highway speed for about 10 minutes with A/C set to 21, temp > 2/3 9) Boosted a bit on the highway to catch up to a car took the temp to about 3mm below the first temp "warning" line (at this point I go "oh shit!", wind the window down, turn the A/C off, back off completely and granny it back into town. This aint right surely? I would expect a bit over half temp at highway speed with A/C on full and that's the highest it should go, even if hitting boost a bit on uphills. I'm just wondering what other ppls temp gauge reads in these kinda situations. I'm worried cos I plan on going to the coast which will be lots of hill climbing and it'll be on boost now and then (unavoidable...) and it'll be hot so need the A/C on, but I don't think it'll make it if a bit of around town and highway driving took the temp as high as it does! Is something majorly wrong?

Looks like my misfire wasn't the coils. Changed the plugs in my 96 GTS-T S2 to NGK BKR5ES-11 and took her for a run. After temp got between 1/3-1/2 (what I consider warm) I did 5 or 6 runs to very near redline (6.5k). No misfires. Then on the 7th run I noticed the engine temp was up to 2/3s and rising, so I backed off and pulled over. Temp went back to normal. During the idling period, I only got 2 very slight misfires in about 2.5 minutes. I figure if the engine temperature got as high as it did, I'm driving it harder than I should, and since I didn't encounter any misfiring at WOT during that period, I consider my problem fixed. I suppose if I was to do something to the car to improve the cooling system and the temperature stayed acceptable, I would continue to run it hard and see what happened, but since I'm not modding *just* yet, I'm satisfied!

Replacing the TPS fixed the low idle problem for me perfectly. No more looking like a nooby who can't drive manual or stalling it in crawling traffic! My engine is stock tho, nfi for ppl with mods.

Fark! Yeah, it's a worry when a workshop's reputation and the impression you get from them (and the dodgy personality the rep exudes) deters non mechanical-minded people enough to make them try their own car work. Funnily enough, the guy who I got to work on my car also left an oil leak, but he admitted it (major family problems happened to him that day and he wasn't thinking straight) and he fixed it real quick. I don't care if ppl screw up, as long as they admit and fix it without any extra charge to you. It's the ppl who deny it or cover up problems that I hate. PS. I'm about to order some Splitfires to solve the high rev misfire problem. Then hopefully she'll be running like a dream cos there aren't any other problems with the car. Will post my results on the appropriate 'missfire under boost' thread.

If your getting misfiring at idle and also under partial load (non boost) when the engine has warmed up (or even before), try replacing your throttle position sensor. I had the problem your describing. If you stay in second and slowly let it wind out to 5rpm, u could feel it misfire every now and then. It made it a b*tch to drive in stop start traffic, since ur keeping it very near the clutch catch point a lot.. it would every now and then just misfire and kill the engine cos it suddenly lost enough power to keep the engine running (we're talking really crawling traffic here though). Anyway, cost me 110 delivered from justjap and now I only have the misfire on boost at very high revs (Splitfire time!)

Yeah, Abo Bob: 2nd hand OEM coilpacks 310 all up, inc shipping.

Yeah but the 2 places who back up the warranty are the dodgiest #(%*#%*'s in the city and I refuse to take it to them unless it blows up in a big way and I realy can't afford to fix it. Plus, this is one of *those* problems. EG they test the coilpacks with a multimeter and say they're fine, when u really need to play with it in detail to isolate the problem. Even the mechanic I like and haev taken the car to so far said the packs are fine (not the stock ones, and not ideal, but fine). I really don't care any more, I've just heard way too many horror stories about the warranty's mechanics to take it there. Especially as this problem only presents itself between 5-7k. The places I'm avoiding are known for screwing up ppl's cars bigtime and using them out of hours and even going on driver training day's using customers cars. I don't trust em. That, and I'm 99% sure the warranty ppl will patiently wait for me to explain how my car pops and farts when I'm 1-2K off redline and then say "WHAT DO U EXPECT IF YOU DO THAT TO A CAR?! BYE" The warranty is worth jack, and was thrown in, didn't add anything to the cost. Probably cos they know they'll barely ever get a claim on it cos of who provides the work!

About to change my coilpacks on my 96 R33 GTST to try and get rid of the misfire at high revs on boost problem (5-7k for me.. higher than most). Everyone talks about the Splitfire brand of packs. Looks like they would cost about $550ish delivered. A guy at Autobarn told me coilpacks can be bought for the Skyline that would be $250 total. My question is: are the Splitfires so much better in any respect? e.g. design, or longevity, or performance? On the thread about doing home-grown fixes: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...356&hl=missfire it looks like ppl are filling particular areas on the coilpacks with sealants. I'm wondering if the Splitfires have particularly better design than the stock coils and if that is what ur paying for. For obvious reasons, I dont want to change my stock coilpacks for new ones that aren't up to snuff or "el cheapo" dodgy 5h1t. So why does everyone rave about Splitfires? What else can they be compared to. I'm willing to pay the 550 or so, but only if they are the best, or very near to. The main thing is, I want to eliminate the coils 100% as the cause of the misfire. And another thing, out of all the ppl who had the misfire problem and replaced the coilpacks to fix it, how many found it actually fixed it (COMPLETELY)? And how many were ripping their hair out after cos it wasn't the cause? Nearly poll worthy, but it wouldn't be very useful really... just to see the "odds" of new coilpacks fixing ur car hahah But I'm getting really annoyed now with farting around with the car instead of just driving it! I'm gonna fix this car if it kills me, sends me broke, or drives me insane!

Indeed. I'm gonna look into the dodgy araldite etc solutions, even if they are temporary. If they help/solve it, I'll buy new packs. But that'll have to wait a while as I'm running lean $$ for the rest of this month from fixes already done!

Last night, after a hot 30 minute run in fairly warm Canberra evening heat, my car did this. When I floored it: it's fine until about 4.5k, but from then on until I hit 6.5-7k, the engine seems to cut in and out very quickly maybe 5-6 times a second. I think it is misfiring, it sounds like it's backfiring too, but I expect that is only a side effect from the fact that it is misfiring. I tried to recreate it again this morning, but to no avail, winding out 2nd to 7k, I couldn't do it (after 10 minutes moderate driving to warm it up enough to put that kinda stress on the engine). I'm gonna see if it only does it when the engine is *really* warmed up again, like it was last night. Is this pattern typical of the problem? Is it worse for everyone when the engine is hot? And less obvious when cool?

Feels like the engine is cutting in and out very rapidly. Like you're very very quickly taking ur foot off the gas momentarily and putting it back on, several times per second through that RPM range. Basically exactly like they describe in this thread, which I'm about to read (again.. i read it when i first had troubles, thinking it was related).

OK so today the throttle position sensor was replaced. Car idles MUCH MUCH better now. There is only a very *slight* miss maybe once every coupla minutes. And (unrelated) my new rotors and brake pads are an immediate improvement. But now I have the misfire between 4-6K. I guess I just didn't notice cos I hadn't pushed it up that far too much until now, thinking the car was all fine. *cries*

Hey white R33 S2 with nice bodykit and plates "SKY33T" you passed a stock-ish silver R33 S2 on your right, heading under commonwealth bridge towards Fyshwick.. that was me! Driving slowish cos I was on my way out to Ed's for a much needed broken part! (throttle sensor) Anyway, G'day.

I just got quoted 250 a corner for Maxxis MA-Z1. I can't go past that, seeing how well they did in the magazine road tests (I heard Motor gave them a good review too), for 1K as opposed to 1600, the decision is now all but made! The fitter said the reason they are so cheap in Australia is cos they've only been in the car tyre market here for about 2.5 years. My mechanic also says they're great, so I'll give em a go.

I dunno what rotors they are. I don't think he's dicking me though, cos this morning I found out I'm getting EBC Redstuff for 240 for the fronts, instead of Greenstuff, which I first assumed cos of the price! He said Reds are 300RRP, so I think he's not ripping me on the other stuff. In fact, it's all being done right now, I can't wait to get it back

Check your thottle position sensor. I had weird idle stuff going on too and mechanic is replacing it now as he said it's knackered.

Check your thottle position sensor. Tap it with a soft mallet while its running to check it's connections and internals are ok. Mine was fine when adjusted, but acted up after 5 minutes driving and drove all jerky and misfired and crap.

Quickfit just 5hat on Maxxis from a fair height.. saying they are a long wearing budget tyre (about 40k's instead of 25-30k), that they sacrifice on grip, and that Wheels is a biased magazine and the next magazine on the rack will push some other tyre make/model. He also said that they don't have much experience with them though. Grr

Thanks Trust, I'll make sure he at least bleeds the brakes, and if he pipes up to charge more I'll say I just expected it was part of the labour since it should be done anyway.

was looking at that myself recently. apparently Race Brakes, Bendix, or maybe EBC are the brands ppl are buying. I'm getting some EBC Greenstuff pads tomorrow, having just read (after the fact) that they aren't the best, but it seems there's always someone whose got a good or bad opinion of every pad. Apparently Bendix are cheap and good. Just search.. "bendix racebrakes" and make sure u include results from the "any time period" (as opposed to the last 30 days default). Hopefully ur in a position u can pick and choose and shop around.

OK thanks, glad to hear the rotors aren't way over. I read about Bendix vs EBC on here, couldn't tell if one was better or not. He's already ordered them, so... oh well. Can you even change the rotors and pads without changing the fluid and bleeding? I don't know. If brake fluid and bleeding aren't necessary when changing those parts, I doubt he's including them. They should really be done, hey. Tomorrow I'll say "so that includes x & y... right.... ?" and see what he says. If he says no I'll act taken aback and hope he changes his mind without charging extra.. don't think it's gonna happen though. Yeah it's worth a coupla hundred a pro doing it, cos A) obviously I'm not the most clued up and B) I've gotta take a day off just to get the car to the mechanic and then run off to get some other boring stuff done.. no time to do it myself

Oops, forgot to say that's for a 96 GTS-T

One of my front rotors is messed up and I'm getting it replaced tomorrow. RDA brand slotted type. Guy is charging $500 for the pair of fronts (only doing the fronts). I'm also getting new pads at the same time. He said they are EBC, I forgot to ask which sort, for $240 the pair and going by online prices, I reckon they're greenstuff... anyone agree? And charging $170 for fitting. I think it's $$$ but I need them done ASAP and he has the stock and he's also already gonna be replacing my throttle sensor for free with one I'm bringing him since he spent a whole day to narrow it down as the cause of a separate problem I have. So yeah... $910 for RDA slotted fronts, EBC Greens (I think), and fitting, does that sound exorbitant? I *think* I've seen rotors for about 200 each.. but might be imagining things. Guess its irrelevant since it's all gotta be done asap, but still interested to know how hard I'm getting shafter (or if at all).

Try replacing your throttle position sensor. 110 delivered to Eastern states from Justjap. Sounds like what I had. I had weird shuddering while driving, (at least, that's what I think your describing). I also had slightly unsteady idle. When driving full stick, I couldn't really tell anything, but if I slowly wind out 2nd gear, I can feel it sort of hesitating now and then like it's gotta think about what it's doing. I also replaced the oxygen sensor as a first guess in the hope of fixing it. My mechanic garantees it's stuffed, cos he adjusted it and it idled perfectly for 15 minutes, then he drove it and straight away it was rooted again. He swept everything with an oscilloscope and got no faulty readings, but said when he lightly tapped the TPS with a hammer, it went absolutely berko and misfired as I was experiencing. Give it a go! Can't wait til mine's replaced (day after tomorrow).

!!! RICE?! ri*N*cewind man.. hope most ppl aren't reading it that way lol uh nevermind Those who know, know. Rim size is 235/45 R18. I dunno about the width.. how can u tell by looking? I didn't put them on myself so I dunno.