the r32 Actuator is actually a 12psi from the service manual
so your running 12psi boost standard from the spring (you cant run less than the spring)
the ER34 ecu has a boost map sensor which is different to ECR33 "excess airflow" mapping
the ER34 actually watches how much boost is present and has a safety back/off mode which you would be hitting
youll need to remap it or you can try unplugging the boost sensor and just plugging up the vac line to it
this might make the ER34 ECU ignore the faulty boost reading of vacuum (technically its valid) and wont trip the excess boost limit
(from the archives)
mythbusters ahoy!
where HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me know
you cant "dyno tune" the stock ecu so be careful what you are asking and paying for
the 02 sensors (both of them) are solely responsible for giving the ECU valid feedback during closed loop (light cruise) on fuel ratio's from the engine
the ECU then uses these sensors to lean out the mixture on light cruise to save fuel. as soon as you flog it / bring it on boost this mode stops operating.
if one or both of the 02 sensors are dead then closed loop won't work well, ie waste fuel
id strongly suggest changing both 02 sensors
from memory the nissan service book said approx 100,000 or 150,000 for 02 sensors
i used the pfc kit for a while and it worked pretty well
one less box, good setup, good overboost protection
if you are having issues be mindful of how much boost you want to run and the actuator spring rate
ie dont run a 5psi wastegate spring and expect the pfc boost kit (or any elec controller) to let you run 22psi
choose a reasonable sized spring in the actuator and then bleed a few psi extra via a controller
adjust the tune to bring boost on earlier (more timing)
1.1kgmc2 is too much boost for standard turbo
auto runs different diff gears to manual so gearing would play a part (engine load / turbo charger boost pressure ramp)
auto also runs different stock boost actuator (irrelevant when using boost controller)
imho tune your ecu setup and you should be around the equiv of a manual ish
from memory in my manual 33 tuned i had 0.85kgcm2 by 2700rpm
you dont need datalogit to do DATA INIT
but you will loose the tune, so if you don't have a copy or have it saved then yes get datalogit and back up the tune first
there is a procedure to follow when you do DATA INIT
and if you dont do it properly the idle is ass and sometimes results in instant-stall skyline
so read the pfc faq on DATA INIT at paulr33.com
if the TPS is wrong or off scale and isnt in the idle range then the if may tell the PFC the throttle is actually partially open, when it isnt
so as the others have said, dig up the nissan spec manual, find out the voltage range the TPS should be for idle and set yours to match that
the PFC will copy what the standard specs are so ensure it is aligned to that
ie if the spec manual says idle or closed should be 0.035 v then make sure yours is the same
you can't run map sensors on the l-jetro powerfc (the airflow meter version)
youd have to sell it and buy the d-jetro version and buy the map sensors and get it tuned
you shouldnt max twin z32s and its probably comparable to cost vs selling your current setup and buying a map sensor based system
it's not d-metro its d-jetro. the stock pfc users airflow meters and it is l-jetro and the map sensor version is d-jetro
its likely the d-jetro has the same issue as its just map sensors instead of airflow meters
the 33 ecu does not have a boost sensor, it has no idea how much boost you are running and doesnt have sort of boost cut
it does, however, watch how much air the airflow meter is showing and if its too much at certain load points the ecu cuts all the timing and richens up to protect itself
the ecu thinks something has gone wrong and goes into a failsafe mode - ie cut timing, richen up - most people call this "boost cut"
it certainly would not be triggered by running 1psi more than stock - that is stupid
its typically around 10 or 11psi is where you will hit this excess airflow protection
if you hit the stock ecu excess airflow protection, just drop 1 or 2psi and try again
there will be a magical number where you can run more boost and stay under the factory limit on the 33 ecu
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this is how they handle simple traffic / car related issues
imagine how they handle complex issues such as 40yrs+ of soil and water pollution at tullamarine / westmeadows and aircraft noise issues arising from extra runways/flight traffic
agree
v lucky
poeople like that arent always as lucky and end up in emergency and go home in a wheelchair para
not a good idea
seriously
why dive while drunk?
your the hero
the rear exhaust would be larger on the N1
from memory the std 32/33 rear exhaust housing is 0.48a/r and 34 is 0.53a/r
the n1 would probably be 0.60a/r exhaust housing and it should be stamped somewhere on the exhaust side
im not convinced they would check that they have been upgraded and nor would they care
they do a stopping test to ensure the car pulls up correctly at speeds and other than that, i cant see why it would fail the brake test or brakes
its a different story when you goto vicroads with the roadworthy cert for a new rego and they do the inpsection
they might go hey why does this have ap racing 6 pots on the front when it should have 4 or they might not even notice (or care)
that makes no sense
the diag port goes nowhere when you use the powerfc
the powerfc doesnt run normal ECCS diag so the port is useless, if you want diag look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK