paulr33

%25 sounds about right / resonable

dont select any other afm, that will alter the tune you cant "map" the voltage off the airflow meters, what ever voltage they read, they read, the ECU then interprets the voltage and works it out based on the ecu tune so you can't make the afm show 0.5v instead of 0.2v if that makes sense? it is probably showing different voltage because there's different resistance across the hotwire / ie ; different airflow

pointless and you wont need it. the r34 gtr intercooler will be fine (assuming GTR core, dont use GTT, its the same as ECR33, pointless upgrade) if you insist on doing it dont use the wiper jets get proper water spray jets and use them

duty is a ratio of open to closed and boost is the target you cant see both. set a mid duty to start off with around 45 and see how much boost comes out. if its too high lower the duty. if boost is too low increase duty slowly and repeat test it in 2nd gear or 3rd gear for more accurate readings and a better load rate on the road

yeah that is completely wrong it should never be like that if you unplug the AFM sensor completely does it do the same thing? if you unplug the TPS sensor completely does it do the same thing? when you unplug the sensor on a car thats running a PFC the sensor name will go in black highlight under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and the engine light will come on this might give away which of the sensors wires is mangled up if you unplug the AFM at the sensor and it still shows a value you know the AFM wires are f**ked if you unplug the TPS sensor and the values go away you know the TPS is at least wired in properly, but could still be bridged at the loom etc

from memory VCT never operates if NTR doesnt work easy way to test it clutch in start car keep clutch in move into gear keep clutch in rev engine to around 1500rpm keep clutch in under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK you should see VCT turn on at some point past 1300rpm i think if you never see VCT turn on, its not running VCT, or VCT is never engaging worth checking

why are you using manual powerfc on auto car? you know its not supported right? but anyway look at ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and look at the values of MAFS-1 and TPS do they both change at the same time?

the is, of the is not makes no sense id say the AFM signal wire is mangled somehow

agree. MAFS-1 should not change when the car is off and you press the accel pedal cant be too hard to trace the signal wire when it was spliced at the afm plug, this is where its likely to be wrong

theres a nice yellow 8 on car sales for 22k very tempted to buy it

just get a k&N one and every 20,000 odd take it out, bang it to release all the loose stuff and re-use it

powerfc does not support more than one tune and you need to use datalogit to change tunes daniel runs dual flex 95/98 in his r34 gtr with a link g4 read here http://www.skylinesa.../page__hl__flex

the ecr33 ecu does not retard timing based on air temp as it has no air temp sensor, therefore i will not perform this function (retard timing based on airtemp) pretty sure er34 is the same no airtemp

its in the nissan service manual...... the spring rates for manual and auto are tested at different levels of mmhg - aka boost pressure

make sure you check the throttle body pipework too ive seen busted plastic bits end up at the throttle body so be sure to check there as well if its gone into the engine its too late anyhow and it would be stuffed by now all you can do is check the pipework and make sure theres no bits left lying around for direct bolt on and best performance GCG hiflow send them your old busted one then send you back a new one highflowed and its a direct bolt and looks the same as the std turbo but you still need fuel pump, ecu, frount mount intercooler to get it working properly you could change just the turbo and drive it normamly but most poeople when they change the turbo wind the boost up and complain when it misfires etc with the standard ecu so just do it properly

please tell me you arent running stock ecu? your probably hitting the stock rich and retard if its still the stock ecu its also likely your coilpacks are dying on boost which is pretty common but before you go and shell out for coilpacks check what ecu you are using you cant just crank up the boost and hope it will work on the stock ecu

yeah it doesnt worry me cos its my dads he loves recording free to air stuff so he can put up with the ass features =) ive got two wd tv live's in our house bulletproof and plays every movie ive even got two cisco switches now so its a pretty good setup 14 active ip's in my house =)

oh and it gets worse it has USB on the front so if you plug in your own USB drive it has to "register" it and format as linux ext2 so then you cant just copy your own movies to it and play movies off that, played divx movies must be off the network via DLNA why design it like that ?????? ASS

far out my dad got a panasonic blu ray player and pvr in one on the box it has plays divx/mkv and records tv MY f**kING ASS IT DOES this product is the biggest piece of shit i have ever seen shitter than the pioneer vsx-527-k this thing wont play xvids which is basically the standard these days and the same for mkv as it;s just a container so essentially out of about 25 movies i copied for him, it only plays 4 that happen to be mp4 mpeg4 format and it has to be via DLNA so it expects the pc to do the transcoding on the fly so basically you hit play wait a good minute or two for the transcoding to buffer enough then it plays WHAT ASS the WD TD LIVE is absolute god compared to this device

ah good point, didnt think of that perhaps disabling the 02 sensor and spending time tuning all the load points via safc may yield better economy?

you should be able to use the safc load points to the bend the tune on light cruise to get around 15 or 16 on light cruise i had my powerfc tuned for mid 16s on light cruise and got pretty sweet economy for many years make sure you are measuring your af/rs using a wideband 02 ssensor and not a guage or reader on the stock narrowband 02 sensor

scar non

sup peeps ditched the pioneer 5.1 for a stereo amp would never go back to 5.1 or 7.1

the pfc displays the standard errors and will turn on the check engine light or exhaust temp light on BNR32 you can look at etc, sensor sw check to look for any sensors with black highlight, this means a sensor has failed it wont be a sensor failed causing your issue it sounds like hot / melted vac lines or something simple

or at least compensates for the lag