paulr33

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/372519-tcs-slp-and-engine-light-on/page__p__5941503__hl__coilpack%20tcs__fromsearch__1#entry5941503 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371356-backfire-and-traction-control/page__hl__coilpack+tcs__fromsearch__1 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/364591-r34-gt-t-engine-tcs-and-slip-lights-coming-on/page__p__5898585__hl__coilpack%20tcs__fromsearch__1#entry5898585 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/234231-r34-gt-t-lights-coming-up-on-dash-engine-lightslip-tcs-light/page__p__5413480__hl__coilpack%20tcs__fromsearch__1#entry5413480 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/291882-r34-tcs-and-slip-light/page__p__4879901__hl__coilpack%20tcs__fromsearch__1#entry4879901 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/400337-r34-gtt-dreaded-error-code-21-coilpacks/page__hl__coilpack__fromsearch__1

see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/400337-r34-gtt-dreaded-error-code-21-coilpacks/page__hl__coilpack__fromsearch__1

from that auction page it wont work on the stock ecu (or PFC) because All AEM digital gauges feature a 0-5v analog output for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system, such as the AEM EMS or FIC. the stock ecu and PFC only run 0v to 1v analog input so you need an wideband 02 sensor / controller with analogue output

your car has a factory narrowband sensor the stock ecu and PFC (and most ecu's) assume you have a stock narrow band sensor you cant just remove it and install a wideband sensor and expect it to work if you do install a wideband sensor as a narrow band replacement then you need to ensure the controller for the wideband sensor has narrowband output this is usually a 0v to 1v output which the stock ECu will use and trick the stock ecu into thinking you have a narrowband 02 sensor narrow is 0v to 1v wide is 0v to 5v a/f guages are useless on narrowband sensors and only meaningful on wideband sensors stock ecu assumes (and pfc) narrowband and will only work on narrowband sensor (or fake narrowband input from wideband controller) narrow band 02 ssensor should be $80 wideband 02 sensor form memory around $200 the stock narrowband sensor does die and it only has limited service life from memory approx 100,000kms or so so yes, its a good idea to replace it and you may yield some fuel economy as its the sole sensor responsible for fuel economy management with a f**ked 02 narrow band sensor the stock ecu cant trim the fuel map on its own and its probably wasting fuel note - dont confuse this with black smoke when you flog it on boost when you flog it or floor it the stock 02 sensor is ignored and the ecu does all the work the stock narrowband sensor is only used on light cruise / light throttle when you open the throttle / floor it / on boost the ecu goes into "closed loop" and ignores the 02 sensor

bov wont matter can u try std coilpacks and see if the lights come on again i dont know why er34 has cookiy throw slip/tcs on when coilpacks die but im pretty sure thats what it does

yeah or maybe thats the go the 02 closed loop is for out of the box tunes if you can be bothered tuning the fuel map on light cruise at 80kmh/ and 100 and 110kmh for example then youll probably yield better fuel economy than the std 02 closed loop defaults. i think from memory on my 33 i had afr's of around 15 at light cruise or even 16 and with the std 02 closed loop it would alwyas around around 14 or just under and stay there

i reckon its coilpacks given the hestitantion youve described find some ER34 threads where people have had coilpack issues see if its the same issue - TCS/SLIP lights come on

the boost control kit wont cause the slip/tcs lights to come on the boost control settings are always displayed even when the kit is turned off if the kit is turned on and not connected the check engine light comes on cos it cant detect the boost kit map sensor that sensor sw check screen looks fine - if a sensor is f**ked the names goes bold highlight black dots mean switch or relay is on - so all normal here the only thing i can think of its the same as the ECR33 active lsd where the lsd computer is expecting TPS signal from the stock ecu and becuase the PFC you are using doesnt do that, the SLIP/TCS chucks a spaz have you got another friend with an ER34 you can check to see if theirs works? has this PFC worked in your car before? how does it drive? any misfire or other wierd shit? form memory coil packs toast in ER34 turns on TCS/SLIP (no idea why) but thats what happens apparentyl but its odd that its not on with stock ecu this was what i had with my ECR33 and active lsd stock ecu fine, powerfc Slip/Active LSD would always fail

as in its trying to aim for the ideal a/fr for std 98 penis fuel each fuel has its own ideal stoichmetric no idea what it is for E85 but just enter this value into the PFC and you should be ok

the pfc (and stock ecu) assume you are using normal 98 penis fuel in datalogit you can set from memory the target af/r or co-efficient for the closed loop operation you will need to adjust this if using different fuel its cos its using the 98 penis fuel target settings and trying to aim for that

what does SENSOR SW CHECK look like under ETC is any sensor name highlighted in bold? is this the same as the active lsd in the ECR33?

did you play quarantine? "doom on wheels" apparently fiddlesticks

i can remember trying to get NFS working with my next door neighbour and we would dial each other youd have to run out side under the carport and yellout ok dial and wait for host etc etc at each other same with nascar racing, dial host and it was horrible it would never stay in sync enough for a good race or a lap

the hardest one to ever get working was NFS PC CDROM even when it finally worked it would stay connected for like 5 seconds and start racing then go "out of sync" fiddlesticks

C&C red alert or doom on null modem

its like LP gas coversions, they reckon 2 years it has paid for itself i think in darwin gas was $1.01 for some spazzo reason (we just got back from darwin today) in melbourne its like $0.58 - no idea why????? penis fuel was $1.55 and down here it is $1.37 - seems normal, not sure on gas

yeah its definetly a good step forward in saving money and the environment if every 2nd household moves to solar imagine the slow decline reliance on fossil energy over time it all adds up ive seen poeple get those "power eco friendly" power boards that turn off your devices and shit when idle dont bother with that crap all it does is annoy you and flick your devices off during idle / standby. sure some devices may use a few watts at idle but if you have solar you are fine

i dont know when they will break even but it shouldnt be too far away in comparison the power bill at my place with me and jess is $120 a month ill sort out solar once we are married and all the expensive stuff is paid for want to knock out a wall and get married first

my parents have from memory an $8k or $9k solar install and have had it for about 2 years now i think the did the first install and then added more panels later on. their power bill last year was $37 or something stupid like that for the whole year because they have so many panels and dont use a lot of power they basically come out even for a while year. this is with my 2 parents and my brother in the house. they are pretty watchful of power usage but still have the usual plasma tv, pool pump, another tv, stereo, elec oven etc more often than not they are sending power to the grid which just clocks up credits for them on their bill all the time

didnt know you had an s15 good work where are you working drop up a note

what is special about your powerfc? you need to look up the pinouts for the R33 and then wire the signal wire for the tacho onto the guage because you are using a powerfc it makes no difference, its the same RPM pin out if using the stock ecu as well

makes no f**king sense but as soon as i twisted the piston it went straight in no amount of force even with the brake lines undone and nipple off it still wouldnt go in with full 6" g-clamp on it the second i removed the g clamp and then turned the piston with a flat blade it wound back into the caliper ass

you are a legend bang on if you force it nothing if you twist the piston it goes in instantly far out thanks heaps

how the fudge does that work? the piston has a cross pattern on it