paulr33

get the service manual and look it up .... ? TPS at idle (or closed throttle) should be 0.35 ish v to around 0.40ish volts. if you are seeing 2.3v at idle or (closed throttle) your sensor is f**ked or throttle body isnt closed properly AFM at idle for standrd AFM or z32 should be around 1.1v ish give or take. be sure to note, with IGN on, but not engine running, AFM (regarless) should be 0.5v ish TPS should be 0.33v ish. with engine running at idle, AFM should climb to 1.1v instantly and TPS should be the same unitl you press the accel pedal

from the service manual, note the item in red and green when TPS is dead the car just runs as normal when afm is dead, rev cap at 2000rpm

if the TPS was toast id expect your idle would be pretty ordinary or it would idle peg at like 1100rpm constant how does it idle the engine check light would also be on for f**ked tps there is no rev cut that im aware of for dead TPS, but there is for dead AFM, it caps at 2500rpm

dr drift (sam) would be able to fix it he would be most likely keen to spend the time to debug and fix it

prob easiest way would be to hard wire the pump off the battery to confirm all is OK then someone can focus on restoring the fuel pump power relay from the main ecu cant be that hard any decent jap workshop could do it chasers / racepace / re customs / dr drift

i drove to st kilda rd from gladstone park every day for a good few years not only does it take the same time or longer than public transport, but it costs probably 4x more train zone 1 / zone 2 daily is - $240 a month or drive etag - $8 a day ? - $176 fuel - $176 (est $40 a week) car park - $264 so you can see the difference. the main problem with traffic is every car has 1 person in it. public transport is fine and v cost effective vs driving

when you INIT the powerfc you need to do the self idle adjust, if you dont it will instantly stall when you tap the throttle my advice read the PFC FAQ (in my sig) about DATA INIT 1. perform DATA INIT 2. dont start the car 3. set AFM 4. set injectors 5. turn off boost kit 6. start the car 7. let it idle for 30 minutes as per self idle adjust 8. baby car to tuners and away you go if you skip the self idle adjust you get a car that stalls instantrly in most cases if you dont turn off the boost kit and you arent using the boost kit the check engine light stays on because it cant find the map sensor. the boost kit is on by deault when you DATA INIT the PFC

really miss my 33 i think i just miss a fast manual turbo the BA wagon is tops but do miss quick fast car with loud spooling noises evo 8 6 spd or BCNR33 ? e8 is way more attractive.... but 33R is old trusty

needs more T51R

post a pic of them to perhaps help? no idea what they are worth

fyi my 33 is back as YZO427 and registered i wonder who has it

good to hear and well done how bad was the hail damage? how much was the car insured for and what was the repair bill??? my 97 gtst was insured for 12k and just cars didnt even bother getting a quote for my car - total loss declared within 5 minutes of looking at it

moved from tutorial, please dont post "please help" threads in this section thw howto / turotial section is for howto guides and tutorials

hamish/merowyn congrats and well done sorry im a few days behind been busy as need more twin scroll

i think i can make it

to be fair, if i was a cop and i saw a car with no plates, id pull it over too, makes sense? no?

not good hamish, id put in an internal complaint for you via telstra but i cant because foxtel is seperate everything hope it all goes ok let me know if you get dicked around ill see if i can flag it internally somehow if they dont help

either will do

supra with t67

all sorted. just had issues reactivating it due to old details. paulr33.com is back

hello yes i have a copy on my hard drive :-) my hosting company is being a donkey will be fixed in a few hours

yeah i guess to be clear there are two scenario's here one is the pump fails completely and stops pumping fuel in this case the engine would basically stall or cease acceleration and slowly come to a halt the other scenario is the pump cannot keep up the required LP/H rate for the engine and the fuel flow rate, and pressure drop off or "lean" this coupled with the engine being on full load, make stuff go bang. the engine slowly leans itself out, the exhaust temps would climb, the AF/Rs would continue to lean out and eventually the engine would either blow valves, melt the exhaust, melt pistons etc and fail this would have to occur over a period of sustained MAX load and it wouldnt just happening cruising along ie it would have to be a good 1 to 2 minutes run at full song and a pump that cant keep up to cause this type of failure (i expect) the last one is even more "variable" because is the pump failing, or are you expecting too much flow from it ?

you can use one airflow meter and parrallel up the signal wire to both inputs on the GTR ECU to make it thinks it has two AFMs the ECU does an average of both airflow meters, so it is basically the same thing the device you might be thinking of is the later SAFC II that lets you manipulate the AFMs to either single or twin AFM on single or twin AFM car that is, run twin AFMS on a single AFM car, or run single AFM on twin AFM car ther other device you might be thinking of is the HKS VPC or vein pressure converter that converts MAP to AFM

how good is failside