paulr33

id be very surprised changing intercoolers would fix your problem the only time i would agree with that statement is if you had the stock SMIC and it basically achieved 0% intercooler efficiency the more boost you dial in, the hotter the intake charge thats simple physics and you cant avoid that sure there are better and worse intercoolers if your intercooler is working and the intake temp is half normal one side is hot, one side is stone cold if your intercooler is not working and the intake temp is spastic both sides are hot im just not convinced going to another intercooler is going to magically solve the second issue (if you have that problem)

is it just me or do you guys find tons of websites just freeze your browser these days? like google, try and search for anything, basically instant lock of the browser for several seconds same with netbanking, instant lockups for seconds++;

hiyabusa and gt28 kit

having a normal daily car is tops

they do, just not in a park full of joggers, walkers, kids, families and other people walking around i think its fair enough that 1 park is exempt from bikes im sure they were allowed at one stage and far too many incidents occured where cyclists plowed into walkers or walkers plowed into cyclists so they banned cyclists

yes no bikes

think i saw my 33 on the road in my old suburb surely its not the same car given it was only sold last week couldnt get close enough to confirm

yeah gym later

scar non

half past dead exit wounds national security blue streak tango and cash executive decision

moved from tutorial - dont post "please help" in here

moved from tutorial - dont post "please help" in here

moved from tutorial - dont post "please help" in here

be sure to note al's car has external gate with proper manifold the car was very different when it had internal gate and same turbo so its worth the extra $ for a proper external gate setup the difference in power delivery is worth it

the dash temp and the ecu temp are two different sensors if the ecu temp is toast or out of range it will make the ECU act differently - have a look at ETC/SENSOR SW CHECK - What is displayed for WTRT ? and what does it show for MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, WATER TEMP ? on the water radiator pipe at the top of the engine, front left, there are two plugs one of them is the ECU temp sensor, one of them is the dash temp sensor they both operate independently so whilst you can have a valid dash reading, the ecu could be getting a dead signal or wrong range etc if you find your water temp sensor is dead you can unplug it and the car will still run it will just assume ass correction and be a bit sluggish - ie dont flog it like this from memory its generic sensor part - i used a sr20 180sx part on my ECR33 when i killed my sensor

do NOT connect it before the intercooler only after and just before throttle body ensure your ECU can detect if there is no meth and use alternate timing or adjust accordingly i think it should be wired in via a pressure switch so it only comes on when boost exceeds a minimal level ie 6psi so that it doesnt run meth when your on light cruise etc also think it should be wired in like NOS, via the TPS, when TPS is 100% fire the meth solenoid

your asking to get defected / pulled over

on a long weekend with good weather it is all the bikes and quick cars go thinking its going to be empty and an awesome run but it would probably be full of slow std cars and cops trying to catch out hoons

half of melbourne will be on the black spur tomorrow

fyi my ECR33 with 245k on the clock went for $3200

there are a few additional features the powerfc boost kit has over a seperate controller 1 - plug and play no extra wiring or controllers 2 - boost displayed on hand controller 3 - boost correction is enabled on the ecu 4 - safety fuel cut if boost exceeds target by 0.25kgcm2 - ie split vac lines 5 - you can use the boost reading in logging if used with datalogit to better tune boost build

fair connection Hardware is Fast Ethernet, address is 000e.8373.7618 (bia 000e.8373.7618) Description: Telstra Bigpond Cable 10mbps MTU 1500 bytes, BW 10000 Kbit, DLY 100 usec, reliability 255/255, txload 11/255, rxload 226/255 30 second input rate 18957000 bits/sec, 1633 packets/sec 30 second output rate 459000 bits/sec, 811 packets/sec

and/or the housing is too small or exhaust back pressure is excessive even with a 15psi spring a small housing can yield poor boost control as well or "tapering off boost" is what most people see and they usually blame controller and try to find a better controller that can hold boost

as per above - any controller can let you run any pressure ie 57psi if you like providing the base spring level is half reasonable it sounds like you might have had the wasgate spring too low, ie 7psi spring trying to bleed 20psi

one thing that is important to remember regardless of what controller you use is that be careful and aware of the pressure difference between the actuator or gate spring and what you want to run ie if you run 7psi spring and you want run 22psi thats a lot of work for any controller and the results might be spiking boost / tapering off boost or inconsistent you should run a spring that suits your "mininmum possible boost" and then use a controller to let you bleed a few PSI over that mininmum ie if you want 21 psi then run springs that give you say 17psi minimum and bleed the rest via controller and lastly if you see boost pressure taper off in the rev range its probably excessive exhaust back pressure (housing too small or boost too high)