paulr33

ive seen pieces of the compressor wheel stuck at the throttle body so its possible if you kill the compressor wheel, it can make its way into the intake

worst ever DUB stickers

and i wouldnt trust any of the non-genuine intake plenums on a $5k/$6k engine greddy geniune, nismo genuine or nothing, stay well away from the ebay copies, the std one is probably better

i think youd be hard done by to max the std front facing plenum on the rb26 i mean, sure if you are making 400rwkw then you might be close to peaking its efficiency, but i dont reckon you would gain anywhere near 15%, like moodles said, nismo quote 1.8% hardly cost effective if its a dedicated track car and you have every other nismo part, go for it, but most cant justify the cost to gain zero most if they are picky enough tune and trim cylinders 1 and 6 to compensate for the airflow balance across the plenum

sup

hello

at idle timing is locked by the powerfc at 15deg for RB25 it will display 15deg on the hand controller and you cant change or tune (the idle timing) the idea here is that you at idle, adjust the CAS to also show 15deg to match what the ECU thinks idle is so if you see 15deg on the hand controller, and sometghing else at the CAS, you adjust the cas until it reads 15deg bang on then your ECU and CAS are in sync and when the ecu says its 22deg at blah blah RPM etc its actually 22deg

bazinga

if the aac valve was toast or not connected it would have sucky idle with aircon etc on, but it shouldnt stall in normal idle if cas was toast or not connected the car wouldnt start in the first place check afm check tps look for basic loose connections etc

no need to be sorry part of the learning process ive been using the pfc boost kit for quiet a while now on stock turbo and it works well it also enables boost correction on the maps but i dont fully understand what it does and how looking at datalogit it looks like it's able to use an alternate boost target with cold water temp ie boost max 0.50kgcm2 when water is 50deg and slowly ramp to target as water temp goes up, but havent played around enough

MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, KNOCK press UP to display top score press RIGHT to clear top score flog it check peak knock level if its over 50ish get the tune checked / check fuel / back out some timing

my personal advice? sell your GTR buy your own investment property in your name (any area with good growth, not necesarily the best suburb) but another GTR when you're finished and the property has settled removes risk the place is in your name you have an investment property finance is easy once you have an investment property

you sure you want to make your own? in a car accident id hate to see poor seat rails fail and the seats come out of the car

agree with bsa double check the recommendation how much power, what mods, what engine

from the top 3 pin powerfc (any version, djetro, ljetro, pro, ap engineering) is for car that does have an ECU controlled boost solenoid from factory ie ECR33 has dual staged boost where the ECU switches ground on pin 25 to "run" the stock solenoid the apexi kit gives you a new solenoid to use (which runs on pin 25) and a map sensor loom, and map sensor. the map sensor loom connects to the 3 pin socket 5 pin powerfc (any version, djetro, ljetro, pro, ap engineering) is for car that does NOT have an ECU controlled boost solenoid from factory ie EJ20 (not sure if it does or not sorry) where it does not have an ECU controlled factory boost solenoid and boost is controlled by wastegate spring the apexi kit gives you a new solenoid to use, a solenoid loom, a map sensor loom and a map sensor. the solenoid loom connects to the 5 pin socket and the map sensor loom connects into the solenoid loom. the 3 pins are ground, power and signal (map sensor signal) the 5 pins are ground, power and signal (for the map sensor) and power, ground (for the solenoid)

that makes no sense djetro has nothing to do with displaying boost or not, or the 3 pin loom the 3 pin white socket on the side of every powerfc is the boost control kit loom, for the map sensor the 5 pin white socket on the side of every powerfc is the boost control kit loom, for the map sensor and solenoid cars with 3 pin socket have an existing ECU controlled solenoid, so apexi re-use that wiring on the std loom if you have the 3 pin loom then that should run the map sensor, not the solenoid the solenoid runs of pin 25 (assuming ECR33/BCNR33/BNR34 etc) that has boost control solenoid in pin 25 (i think most skylines are like this)

insane in the brain

both will work fine they are two seperate systems and wont know each other exists when running them together just make sure only one device controls the solenoid and both get the same map sensor signal the powerfc boost kit and the avc-r use the same parts so there are no issues theres if you enable boost for the powerfc it has boost pressure correction as well (good) my advice would be to have the AVC-R control boost and the solenoid but also feed the powerfc the map sensor signal at the same time this will enable boost correction in the maps (you can leave ETC, FUNCTION SELECT, BOOST set to OFF and it still displays boost) you will need to buy the PFC boost kit loom (the 3 pin loom) so that you can wire in the map sensor to the PFC the loom is bout $30 from nengun.com

do it right do it once splitfires are probably cheaper than OEM many have used splitfires and no complaints

2nd hand pzero 255 run flats 100 a corner fitted wrapped

coilpacks from what ive seen on hear the coilpack failure rate in ER34 is higher than ECR33 in ER34 it's usually accompanied by engine check light being on but anyhoo its definetly spark related and your ER34 is a bit old, replace coilpacks with a new set (splitfires, do it once, do it properly) they fail in ECR33 also symptom on ECR33 with dead coilpacks is runs fine, drives fine, idles fine. on boost / heavy load = misfire / detonation city

bcnr33 redone interior n1's 34r wheels vic 15k

scar non

cable up here in keilor not aware of any big outages

this is a very valid topic and i think there are a lot of myths out there and a lot of people get caught up on i want xxx rwkw and i have to run xyz psi there is no magic limit or safe level for an engine for boost why? because boost is simply the amount of resistance, nothing more the less boost you can run the better the more boost you run, the more stress and less efficient it becomes the old hat method is keep winding in boost until you peak torque, airtemp doesnt ramp and you continue gaining power ie why run 22psi when you stop making power/torque with anything past 16psi? the point is your tuner should dictate this type of value and tune as best he or she can within the turbochargers limits exhaust back pressure is also a big concern so why run more boost if its of no gain