paulr33

i think he means a special unit, as in one thats guaranteed to work, i dont think he wants two if he does, you buy two, simple

covered to death seriously, how hard did you look? powerfc faq as per my signature

what ever you get or pay for, make sure its not just max rwkw power tunes make sure medium and light cruise is tuned properly, including ignition timing and afr's all through those ranges too many tunes these day are max rwkw power tunes and the car sucks balls off max power / boost and eats through fuel on light cruise

just buy the powerfc

-: How would you go about tuning Lo Throttle, because wouldnt the 02 sensor keep trying to correct the changes you are making in Lo Throttle? Would you unplug the o2 Sensor? -: What target afr's are suitable to tune to? do some more reading on this but when in light cruise, the ecu runs closed loop, that is, read the 02 sensor and lean out accordingly the powerfc has adjustable light cruise target and you can tune every cell you like to whatever you want but thats only valid on light cruise, if you open TPS and load the engine, closed loop stops target afr's are dependant on the car, its tune, the fuel and engine setup on my car light cruise is around 16.0 with shitloads of timing (nearly 50deg) i think and on boost is around 14.7

also if you are going to the cost of installing EGT and AFR guages properly then why bother with SAFC you might as well do the proper ECU tune and tune the setup (everywhere) correctly with a hand controller having EGT and AFRs gauges and SAFC will just make you want the powerfc as you will find you constantly juggle the SAFC bending

the problem isnt just a single max rwkw figure everyone looks at a single rwkw max peak figure and goes "thats a good tune" or picks a good setup based on a single peak rwkw value the problem with the SAFC as i said, its a bender, you comprimise IGN and AFR and you must comprimise both, not one a good tune results in both being adjusted seperately and in line with engine load, airflow and boost pressure the drawback with the SAFC is that when you bend the signal, you bend it so that the ECU compensates both so you get undesired side affects, either too much timing, too lean, or too rich, not enough timing its a juggling act and you end up with a comprimised tune the same car with a remap, powerfc or hks fcon pro or nistune would likely make the same RWKW peak figure but it would respond completly different, it would be more crisp, better on fuel, more responsive and better average power (more tuneable) so forget single peak rwkw at one point whats important is how it drives off throttle, off boost, fuel economy and the in-betweens any setup can make a max rwkw peak

yeah if i do hwy i can get that when i did VIC to NSW i got 560kms (from RSM) and the tank wasnt empty and fuel light wasnt on yet and that was constant 110km/h up the highway but i would not get that in city driving

covered in the PFC FAQ in my signature the SAFC itself doesn't cap your power, but the tuner must juggle the mix between IGN timing and AFR's with the SAFC, as it bends the AFM signal, you must bend both the IGN and AFR unfortunately they work against each other due to the way it works and there's no work around so you end up juggling around detonation and timing to make sure its not too lean or vice versa i reckon you could do 600rwkw with an SAFC and a t88 but the tune would be an absolute prick and it would be on the verge of detonation city or a rich as hell sluggish tune ie comprises, which is what the SAFC is - a comprimise device - bend the AFM signal to juggle more power

dont do 50deg based on my car its too much timing 40deg is plenty on light cruise

no matter what you do run minimum boost dont load it up dont flog it simple with the basic z32 set and injector settings set correctly and default maps you should be ok if in doubt, richen it up a little as an insurance policy if you flog it, boost it up, trash it expect it to go bang as you have changed quiet a bit

yeah some of those are from "the archives" have you got the original benalia pics on that nissan van you guys had, i forget what i was called i wasnt around but i remember that pic

the first pics were in 2006 at wakefield that was the first vic & nsw gathering wakefield, eastern creek and then home i lost my licence that week too

(more from the archives - may 2007) this was when doughboy and troy decided to do 3 big rounds of yagambombs) <3rd round pic missing>

(more from the archives) the first trip dances with fences megaphone speakerphone

(from the archives)

pics and how much

how good is sump baffle sydronme i forgot all about that

as per sig and the rb26 turbo upgrade thread is what you want to look through most of them have dyno plots which shows you the "boost" ramp which is much better than guessing "boost" build rpm

drive around with it in ATMO mode, run map tracer, make it stall when you throttle off, then lean out those cells

Definitions A typical piston-type dump valve, used in auto racing. Unlike a blowoff valve, this one does not vent to the atmosphere. The small hose at the top is a feed from the intake manifold. A compressor bypass valve (CBV), also known as a pressure relief valve or diverter valve, is a manifold vacuum-actuated valve designed to release pressure in the intake system of a turbocharged vehicle when the throttle is lifted or closed. This air pressure is re-circulated back into the non-pressurized end of the intake (before the turbo) but after the mass airflow sensor. A blowoff valve, (sometimes "hooter valve", not to be confused with a bypass valve) performs the same task but releases the air into the atmosphere instead of recirculating it. The blowoff action produces a range of distinctive hissing sounds, depending on the exit design. Some blowoff valves are sold with a trumpet-shaped exit that intentionally amplifies the sound. Some turbocharged vehicle owners may purchase a blowoff valve solely for the auditory effect even when the function is not required by normal engine operation. Motor sports governed by the FIA have made it illegal to vent unmuffled blowoff valves to the atmosphere.[citation needed] Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge, a phenomenon that readily occurs when lifting off the throttle of an unvented, turbocharged engine. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine closes, the high pressure air in the intake system is trapped by the throttle and a pressure wave is forced back into the compressor. The compressor wheel slows rapidly and may even stall, and the driver will notice a fluttering air sound. The rapid slowing or stalling stresses the turbo and imparts severe turbo lag if the driver accelerates immediately after the surge event. Disadvantages In the case where a mass airflow sensor (MAF) is used and is located upstream from the blowoff valve, the engine control unit (ECU) will meter out excess fuel because the atmospherically vented air is not subtracted from the intake charge measurements. The engine then briefly operates with a fuel-rich mixture after each valve actuation. The rich mixing can lead to hesitation or even stalling of the engine when the throttle is closed, a situation that worsens with higher boost pressures. Occasional events of this type may be only a nuisance, but frequent events can eventually foul the spark plugs and destroy the catalytic converter, as the inefficiently combusted fuel produces soot (excess carbon) and unburned fuel in the exhaust flow can produce soot in the converter and drive the converter beyond its normal operating temperature range. One approach used to mitigate the problem has been to reduce the boost pressure, which reduces the required venting volume and yields less charge over-calculation by the ECU. The air can also be recirculated back into the intake, a typical stock setup for cars with an upstream MAF sensor. The situation can also be corrected by switching the fuel metering system over to a manifold absolute pressure sensor, a conversion that usually requires a compatible aftermarket ECU or piggy-back fuel controller. The MAP sensor monitors the absolute pressure in the manifold at all times and will correctly detect the change that occurs when the valve vents, allowing the ECU to reduce fuel metering accordingly.

i agree with mafia's thoughts on this the car should work correctly as it was designed and match the system setup ie ljetro with re-circ value (i dont think any OEM's call it bov) tuning around the stalling (the purpose of this thread) is a good way to resolve it, but why bother? why not just run the correct re-circ setup? learning is good and solving complex problem is good but it sounds like a workaround more than anything

moved from tutorial, dont post "please help" in this section, tutorial is only for "how to guides" or "diy guides" and not "please help"

moved from tutorial, dont post "please help" in this section, tutorial is only for "how to guides" or "diy guides" and not "please help"

moved from tutorial, dont post "please help" in this section, tutorial is only for "how to guides" or "diy guides" and not "please help"