paulr33

could always look at a turbine shaft speed guage, gcg.com.au have them

looks good http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Nissan-Skyline-2001/AGC-AD-16991752/?Cr=1

glad no one hurt

thats a good point by scotty actually, if you've got a boost leak then yeah that might explain what you are seeing suggest basic check for leaks

black and white 1974 dodge sedan with illinois plates, request assitance

If it's a new garrett turbo I wouldn't imagine excessive shaft speed would be a large concern unless you are trying to run 95 psi through or some spastic number. The gate pressure is the target before it diverts excess pressure, ie "shaft speed control". As long as you have a target on the compressor map it should be within its engineered limits. The most likely failure would be oil contamination or dirt in the intake which gets into the bearings. IMHO these would more likely to kill a new garrett turbocharger. Not being able to reach consistent boost in all gears sounds like something is mismatched. There's no reason you can only make 20 psi in gear 3 vs gear 4 for example. Think of psi as your turbo shaft speed. If the engine and setup is matched correctly, or not mismatched then your shaft speed should hit its target no problems. Of course if u are outside the engineering limits, ie expecting 80psi then no hope but at normal levels it should be consistent. My evo makes 19psi in every gear, why shouldn't it?

evo? where'd you get an evo

looks pretty good, has everything

coffe and cars this morning @ road track rally pretty good setup and turnout

more boost

that sucks re: R34 above but at least insurance will cover it =)

this is car #55, we're in a truck

i once knew a hooker named minnie mizzola

rocci loves emily

depending on how bad, id consider insurance claim, it might cost more to fix it otherwise...

going back to your original post and problem statement, i cant see why the map sensor would be better at light load tuning if anything, the airflow meters would be better as they measure actual airflow over the hotwire vs the map sensor that guesses load based on pressure (pressure != volume) you need to remember if you go for twin Z32s these are 80mm each, whereas stock BCNR33/BNR32's are 65mm so you will get more airflow resistance on the std items, which translates to a more accurate airflow meter reading, which translates to a more accurate tune (more variance in the load cells). if you go for twin Z32s then at 80mm each you might find it feel more dampened and sluggish as each intake is larger and it dampens the signal a little. i would strongly think about what you are trying to solve before you do anything as you might find it worse in my skyline i had the powerfc and i loved it and in my evo ive got the vipec and its pretty good also the vipec is map sensor setup (previous owner changed setup) and it works pretty well but i can feel it is a little doughey on light cruise i suspect thats due to the map sensor and large cams (270degs) and all the other crap done to the engine but either way, im not convinced map sensor "is better" for light load tuning yeah sure the vipec has more features and is "this generation" but it doesnt have a simple hand controller which really sucks but then yeah some of the other features are nice (launch, gear judge, logging etc) but it's a 20x20 ecu at the end of the day

you make my speakers go boom boom

yeah you can split the wires, use a bridge tool and run completely seperate - from two seperate outputs so on my stereo amp i have channel A and channel B on the amp Channel A goes to speakers on input #1 on the speakers channel b goes to speakers on input #2 on the speakers then on the amp when Channel A and B are turned on you hear normal music if you only turn on channel a - you only hear trebble, if you only turn on B you only hear bass

see page 5 http://www.wharfedale.co.uk/files/manual/20131112071557_13.pdf

bi-amp is better but if your amp doesnt support it, life goes on. just bridge the terminals so that the single speaker wire goes to both terminals if that makes sense ie dont cross the wires, but merge them

bi-amped means to split the signal and run two seperate outputs to the speakers you need an amp that supports channel a and channel b - or dual amp my setup is like you basically run two pairs of speaker wires to each speaker does the amp have speaker A and Speaker B ? given that it's a 5.1 its unlikey does the amp have subout ?

pickup my car on monday from micolour, woo hoo cannot wait =)

c:\stunts\stunts.exe

its all good, was in the BA as my car is still at micolour nothing wrong with the door, the other car was a merc haha

dear dipshit thanks for driving into my open car door in the bottle shop how useful