paulr33

Airflow (Hotwire/Flap) usage ratio

thank munna1, he wrote it and put the hard work in

$20 wager that min gets the most drunk

pissheads!!! i wanna come and play simpsons trivia

if you do a long burnout and SLIP is locked on for more than 20 seconds it gives up and goes into ALSD fail. at this stage it drops to single spinner and wont lock, until you reboot the car

my bad, assumed he did it correct

how stuff works.com Exerting Pressure The way a gas like air exerts pressure inside a container like a tire or a balloon is through the action of the air atoms colliding with the sides of their container. Imagine that you have a single atom of nitrogen in a sealed container. That atom is in constant motion ricocheting off the sides of the container. The speed of the atom's motion is controlled by the temperature -- at 0 degrees Kelvin (absolute zero) the atom has no motion, and at higher temperatures the speed increases. By its collisions with the sides of the container, the atom exerts an outward pressure. So there are two ways to increase the pressure inside the container: * Raise the temperature of the atoms inside the container - The hotter the atoms, the faster they move. * Put more atoms in the container - The more gas atoms you put in the container, the more collisions you get and the greater the pressure they exert on the sides of the container. When you blow up a tire on a car or a bike, you use a pump to increase the pressure of the air inside the tire by increasing the number of atoms inside the tire. A car tire typically runs at 30 psi, and a bike tire might run at 60 to 100 psi. There is no magic here -- the pump simply stuffs more air into a constant volume, so the pressure rises.

one of the given ways to increase pressure is to reduce air volume and increase temperature. exactly what you dont want in a combustion engine. you want more air

i care not for KKR plain bearing or journal bearing turbochargers. boost pressure is simply that, pressure for a given manifold or space. a car tyre at 40psi has a certain amount of air. a truck tyre also at 40psi has a given amount of air. clearly the truck tyre has more "air" as its larger volume despite being at the same pressure volume does NOT equal pressure volume of AIR makes power pressure of AIR does NOT make power larger turbochargers make more power at the same level thanks to the compressor wheel achieving more compression and stuffing more air in. the large exhaust housing allows it to spin faster, in turn driving the larger compressor wheel to its required speed to dial in whatever amount of airflow you need. airflow makes power, not boost. dialing in more and more boost generally gives you more airflow only whilst you are still in the ideal "island" of the compressor wheel. for the stocker turbo we know that beyond 12psi is out of the effiency zone or island. the net resuilt is that you drive the compressor wheel too fast and it dials in more heat. this results in more and more heat into the engine intake and less air is actually achieved. a lot of people just believe more boost and you'll make more power. a) talking to a friend and telling him or her your car runs a stock turbo at 16psi b) talking to a friend and telling him or her your car runs a gt30 turbo at 8psi everyone is likely to believe a will make more power as street talk, more boost makes more power. this of course is not the case

data init is intended to put the powerfc back to factory settings for that ecu. that is defaults for rb25 apexi powerfc or rb26 powerfc, etc depending on what model you have. the defaults or base maps have changed slightly over time also, some have minor differences in INJ and IGN map i think

i have one on my desk at work, its a great show and tell object

forget boost for a minute, do you have access to premium 98 ron fuel all the time? if not then this is certainly going to impact the tune and power you make

yep you got it right and to anyone else reading you shouldn't determine how much power or how fast a car will go based on how much boost you plan to run. boost means nothing, its merely pressure in the manifold. you should predicate how much power you wish to make, from that you can work how much airflow is required and then select a suitable compressor and turbocharger combination. saying i want to run 17psi daily means nothing 17psi on a hiflow and 17psi on a gt30 are two completely different things and each obviously flows its own amount of air. ie: a stock turbo at 7psi and a gt40 at 7psi. the gt40 will flow stacks more air at the same boost pressure

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=116984 that should sort you out and cover any questions you have

it wont be as good as the stocker on gearchange as its half venting the pressure to atmo, which means the turbo wont come quicker throw it in the bin IMHO

both are covered in the FAQ in my signature should give you plently of info on debugging both

250+ rwkw is easily possible with a hiflow, powerfc, full exhaust, injectors and pump. you can use a 2nd hand gtr pump for around $250 mark. you can use s15 manual JDM injectors which are 480cc or you can go for nismo 550cc injectors. you'll also need heavy duty clutch good tyres suitable fmic suitable cold air intake boost controller (or pfc boost kit)

ok it was me

its neither. its not boost cut and its not fuel cut. its actually excess airflow protection. when the ecu see's certain levels of "air" via the airflow meter signal it activates its protection mode which retards the timing a lot and richens up to protect itself (the engine). the engine doesn't shit off, it doesn't cut out, it doesn't cut spark. it should feel flat and empty, and nothing more. maybe pop and fart a little bit cos its mega rich but nothing more. its oftenly referred as towing a boat all of a sudden or driving against an invisible brick wall

stock gtr would be better

try putting in the correct injector correction and latency what do you see under SENSOR SW / CHECK anything in black ?

there are copper washes http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115059

it wasnt me

Since applying this fix I have intermittently seen engine check light errors, and the TPS voltage drops to 0.02v and the revs are really unstable. a reboot of the car seems to clear the problem but i am unsure what else is affected or any other potential side affects. stay tuned my notes are here about the TPS errors http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=120847 anyone else seen this problem?

Since applying this fix I have intermittently seen engine check light errors, and the TPS voltage drops to 0.02v and the revs are really unstable. a reboot of the car seems to clear the problem but i am unsure what else is affected or any other potential side affects. stay tuned