paulr33

if your going to change the turbocharger, be sure to go for a stand alone setup over a piggyback piggybacks are usually comprimises and often can cost just as much once completed and tuned, if not very close recommendations include powerfc vipec you also need to make sure you have the following to support a larger turbocharger fuel pump injectors airflow meter (if you go past 260rwkw) clutch ecu tune to suit in most cases you cant fit one without the other, ie you cant install injectors or airflow meter on stock ecu, and you cant tune the stock ecu (only remap)

some people are foolish too WHY ON EARTH YOU WOULD BANK XFER MONEY TO SOMEONE YOU HAVE NEVER MET OR KNOW ZERO ABOUT im sorry but far out common sense please ill sell you my R34 GTR VSPEC for $15,000 honest my bank acct is 06-0252 012042

keep your eyes open and look on ebay (beaware of scammers) btw there is no difference in powerfc for s1 or s2 gtst - ie it doesnt matter what model it comes from, ECR33 powerfc works on both

i dont reckon it would need a retune but might be a good idea to check and make sure the a/f ratio's are in check - they should be

if you have the stock AFMs still which are 65mm and a HKS kit to suit them, then they will mate to 65mm apparently you can strech the rubber intake piping to 80mm but its upto you, probably should do it properly and get the 80mm twin intake kit

yeah you dont need 440cc injectors with std turbo the std turbo will run out of efficiency before the stock injectors do so sell them and spend the money you get back on a piggy back or ECU remap the piggyback or ECU remap will add a bucket load more average power everywhere and make the car heaps quicker you should peak 200rwkw with those mods + ECU remap or piggyback but the average power will be up heaps more over the std ECU and boost controller plus youll have to avoid the factory boost R&R around 10psi so its a crap setup even if you just ditch the injectors and tune it

there is nothing to figure out or nothing to do your head in. it is a simple yes / no question. if you have a remapped ecu, aftermarket ecu, piggyback a) get it remapped / tuned again if you have the standard ECU a) remap the stock ECU b) get a piggyback ECU option c) get a stand alone ECU or your last option remove the aftermarket injectors YOU CANNOT RUN NON STANDARD INJECTORS WITH A STANDARD UN-MODIFIED (not remapped) ECU

go for it but you would always be coming back to sau for the expertise and history behind things like forced induction and the for sale section etc

no, emts (and others) mean, what ECU are you using to support the different injectors? you cant just change injectors and expect the ECU to figure it out, you need to tell the ECU what injectors you have, if non-std 370cc your options are remap the stock ECU get a piggyback ECU option get a stand alone ECU either will let you run larger injectors. with STD ECU and anything other than 370cc injectors your car will run like ass and it's a timebomb im surprised the tuner didnt check or ask you or refuse to tune it with std ecu and different injectors did you tell him it had non-std injectors? did he ask what ECU or have you just failed to list it here?

you guys still don't get why they target imports? how obvious can it be....

thanks charles its ok i think for what i need i can just print it at work using tiled a3 sheets its nothing special and theres no budget for it tiled a3 is fine ill use photoshop, and some adobe stuff along with PDF Tiler to help me out i should be ok thanks again though

hi people long time reader, first time poster looking for a cheap supplier of printable media like flyers, stick up posters, large cardboard stands, banners etc ideally a cheap online supplier who i can send pdf's or whatever photoshop blah blah's to and they can print them out as flyers, banners, big cardboard stands etc - only in small volume and cheap, doesnt have to be top notch quality as on a budget any ideas or experiences with this sorta thing i know i can get it done at office works but im sure they charge a packet for it

from memory this could be the stock intake pipe sucking shut do you have the std item still

i wouldnt have thought so to me a family car is something with space, good economy, cheap insurance, doesnt matter if kids break stuff inside it or spill drinks etc doesnt matter if the kids fling the doors open at the shops and hit crap and doesnt attract spastics trying to show off how much boost they run

yeah its one of the nicer one's hasn't moved though and is still there

my view it's just a car? a 4 door skyline is not family friendly and it doesnt look good

i reckon your idea is crazy and risky and will give a crap result but your engine but i do think twin gt25's ECR33s will max a SINGLE z32 airflow meter or come very close

the injectors and regulator control how much fuel goes into the engine, not the pump the pump provides the rail with pressure and flow as long as you have enough pressure and flow it is fine its only when you start sucking more power out of the engine, thus using more fuel you need a higher flowing pump to keep up if you dont get a higher flowing pump, when you make more power, the engine uses more fuel and sucks more fuel off the rail but because you have the original pump it can only flow so much fuel and pressure, thus you don't get enough fuel into the rail and injectors end result is you start to lean out the AF/R fuel mixture, which in turn causes excessive exhaust gas temps and melts the valves and blows the motor a fuel pump is not something to be short changed or skimped on to save $100 re: reliability if a fuel pump fails, the engine stalls and it's fine if a fuel pump cant keep up flow rate and keeps working - this is critical and kills the motor this is why its important to buy a genunie fuel pump that is rated correctly for your usage and an even better insurance policy is to have an AF/R guage with warning welcome from 2005

yeah the ones that are on carsales have been there for 6 months at least the silver one at 42k has been there for agessssssssssssssssss the main diff over vspec and normal that you can't easily change is the different diff computer in the attesa system i think the MFD change is nothing earth shattering and the rest is moot unless your on track duties non stop

its probably worth 60k but its what someone is prepared to pay for it that matters if it was me id by a stocker for 40k and spend 20k on mods if i had a budget of 60k unless yours is some ultra super mega rare midnight purple III or something obscure i see (and probably most) zero value in vspec II over normal vspec

fit a higher actuator spring

agree the AFM is not something that should be mucked around with its one of the key sensors the engine uses for engine management why do you think it rev caps at 2500rpm as a failsafe when the AFM is mangled, failed or unplugged cos its not safe to run with a mangled one or non-working one

this is what a legit Z32 looks like

there are also Z32 (really VG30 AFM's) fake on ebay so do not BUY fake ones a legit Z32 brand new costs $350 ball park and comes in an orange BOSCH box look at the pics of this page for a fake Z32 http://paulr33.com/techinfo/snipit.html also Ive never seen "green" plastic based Z32s like that EBAY url you posted, they are knock offs or fakes or copies or shitters

hello ECR33 AFM is 80mm and maxes around 220rwkw ish, some can do more, some less, but they all peak 5v around this level VG30 AFM (or Z32 we call it) is 80mm and maxes around 400rwkw ish, some can do more, some less, but they all peak 5v around this level both are a direct swap for the physical diameter and adapters but the wiring is different ECR33 S2 is pink label 3 wire and VG30 is orange label 4 wire (extra ground wire)