paulr33

the powerfc faq has 2 topics on knocking Tuning Information # I always have knocking, is it true, is it lies or is something wrong? http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#66 # How do I debug knocking, how can I make it go away? http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#67 The most likely scenario is when the car is tuned on the dyno it uses a certain set of axis and the tuner mainly focuses on these. The environment is usually controlled and the tune state is fairly static given the conditions and environment. Then you get the car and flog the absolute crap out of it and touch cells that might not have been tuned as well, or have as much variance to account for different conditions. End result is it knocks so you might need to do a map tracer, find the cells you hit, and tune them a touch, takes 5 minutes and the FAQ tells you how to do it and costs you $0. This is a key advtange with the powerfc you have the faq the power fc flashing the knock warning light a simple hand controller interface to fix the issue lots of people willing to help most cases should cost you $0 and doesnt need a "retune"

get visual basic and learn SendKey()

you can install it yourself, its pretty easy as long as you can read diagrams the tune is easy as well, there are guide and videos on youtube on AVC-R tuning

the powerfc is solid state and unlikely to fail, but certianly possible if it did fail you would likely see other side affects such as mangled idle, stalling, no power at all, psycho display on the hand controller or now power at all to the ECU If your CAS was toast / slipping / mangled i dont think it would start, idle or run properly if your AFM was toast / mangled / damaged / loose you would have the problem you are seeing i would be checking the AFM voltage at the hand controller and jiggling the wires, i bet they are loose and as grant said i reckon coilpacks would be on the way out they would relpicate your symtomps you are having they work fine on idle and cruise but when on power/boost - misfire/run like ass

it would only alter the tune slightly, that is, use different cells so depending on how your car is tuned, you might not need a "retune" if its tuned properly, most tuners extrapolate the values to the neighbourhood cells on the map (ie the right way) so its fine if it varies a little after all air temp air pressure humidity fuel quality octane rating these vary every minute of the date and you dont need to "retune" each second so its prefectly fine and it might be ok, so don't "panic" but it is a good idea to check the AFRs on a dyno but dont get sucked in if workshops "DEMAND" you must retune from scratch for a simple dump pipe

most skyline owners i dont think really care about top speed most are interested in lateral acceleration ie get to 200km/h as quick as you can who cares what it tops out at, most probably dont even know its like the age old question oh my commodore is faster, the speedo goes to 220km/h and your skyline only goes to 180km/h even with the factory speed limiter in place the skyline reaches 180km/h much quicker than the commodore would this is what i call "fast" - lateral acceleration, not top speed but back to the original topic any car could technically do it, just gearing, weight, power and setup expensive of course but no reason why a supra can do 400km/h and a skyline can't

how to wire BNR32 PFC into R32 GTST is covered in the PFC FAQ and workshops can even do it for you read the info or get a workshop to do it for you or buy a legit AP engineering HR32 powerfc

the misfire bug only applies to BNR32

there is 1 loom but 2 versions of it there is the 3 pin version and 5 pin version depending on what powerfc model you have, and which socket you have on the side determines which version to get on BNR34 from memory it is the 3 pin version the 3 pin version is actually 3 pins for the map sensor (power, ground and signal) the other pin is on the main ECU loom and it's the boost solenoid / wastegate solenoid wire this wire runs to the factory solenoid and you simply re-use that and it re-mates to the AVC-R solneoid (power, ground) the 5 pin kit is used where the car does not have a factory controlled solenoid so the 5 pins is 3 for map sensor, 2 for solenoid

its probably the micorsoft common libraries that you are talking about screen shot the app or something, someone might be keen depending on how hard it is visual basic would be a quick and dirty way of doing it

as far as i can tell it stored on the powerfc unit and is not part of the tune ie you cant copy the self idle learnt data - if there is data, if that makes sense if you buy a brand new powerfc connect it to your car turn key to ON but dont start it and copy someone else's tune over the top or tune it accordingly then start the car, you still have to do self idle procured the only way to start it is to DATA INIT and then next key on self idle learning procedure thats the 30 minutes of normal idle, 10 minute air con, 10 minute demister etc

there are places that repair them you can also get apexi to repair it via nengun.com for official repair you cant check it with consult so dont bother trying open the powerfc up and look for any burnt tracks or damage, also smell for any burns

and reading engine load by air pressure instead of hotwire airflow meter does not lead to better response or more power hotwire airflow meter measures air directly passing through to give engine its load axis manifold air pressure sensor measures pressure and guesses engine load based on pressure via a lookup table when you reach target boost the manifold pressure sensor value remains fixed and you run 2d map from here on when you reach target boost the airflow meter continues to increase and you run 3d map

well of course if the car is only worth 5k you wouldnt do full comp the risk is a reasonable well and trade off is worth it but if the car is worth sub 18k surely not ?

when did the problem start has it ever worked - ie no misfire on boost whats changed recently

this idea, concept and your countermeasures are flawed forget countermeasures, forget if you "think" its a simple case of at some point in time, regardless of why/how/when/where/who/what your car will be stolen or written off or mangled by someone else the key question is can you afford to loose the market value of your car - ie lets say 18k if yes, then no need for insurance or 3rd party if no, then get full comp forget the other crap its flawed and youll only end up pissed off when something happens

the powerfc is able to idle with working 02 sensors or no 02 sensors, or 02 feedback turned off depending on the powerfc version and if IDLE-IG is enabled under function select, its usually hard locked to 15deg or 20deg (depending on rb25 or rb26) you cannot enable the self idle learn feature it is a once only feature that is enabled automatically when you perform DATA INIT then next time you turn the car on it runs through the 30 minute self idle procedure if you skip this procedure, f**k around with the car, drive or it have mangled idle air control, mangled sensors, mangled intake etc then its toast and you must DATA INIT again and re-do the procedure if you mangle it the usual outcome is instant stall when you tap the throttle or wonky idle that is, hunting all over the place (rpm stall / rpm hunt) not AFR hunting

im with GTSBOY that redline statement makes no sense you rescale according to your RPM range

what is your THEFT pay out figure right now its usually the simple question would you walk around with 20k in back pocket and "hope" no one takes it and if they do take it, would you care? a) YES - get full comp b) NO - stay as is i know i'd be pissed if i had my car stolen and only 3rd party insurance is there for a good reason most of the people who put "stole car look out for" threads and REALLY REALLY want their car back are people without full comp insurance if you have full comp insurance and its flogged who cares as long as the payout is reasonable away you go full comp also helps you if someone rams you and drives off or its unclear who is at fault, instead of being stuck with 10k bill you can get your car fixed

but as far as common knowledge goes running twins it's a good idea to have them of equal spec or standard ie dual cpu make sure you buy both cpu's at the same time, so hopefully form the same build batch and spec hard disks in a raid setup maek sure you buy all the drives at once and hopefully from the same vendor, batch build and firmware on the drives etc ram banks in pairs buy them at the same time so you reduce risk of minor chip differences doesnt guarantee, but certainly reduces the risk of differences

nismoid and iplen raise valid points

if you have a power just monitor injduty and TPS replacate replacate with gate wired open i would be gobsmacked if duty was less @ the same TPS with gate wired open the physics do not support it

yeah and thats the exact key to the issue if you can afford it and are willing to wear the risk go for it many have run that boost and survived and im sure there are equally as many who have ran that boost and failed my car is the same GTST with std turbo and running 0.85kgcm2 for years+++ many have failed at this level and let go taking the motor with it im aware of the risk and if it happens, it happens the key is, can you afford it and wear the risk if so enjoy if no, turn boost down as precaution

when you are on light cruise the turbocharger is effectively a paperwork there isnt enough velocity to make boost or as we call it "to tell the computer - hey throw in tons of fuel were making boost"

you are going way too technical for something that's not a problem all for trying new things but on light cruise ecu is in closed loop feedback TPS is usually around %5 wastegate is closed pressure is around -200mmhg when you open the throttle ecu is not in closed loop feedback TPS is usually around %15 wastegate is closed boost pressure may be zero or may just sit around 0.0kgcm2, ie past vacuum