paulr33

GT-RS will make 250rwkw no problems this assumes good healthy engine and mods to support it

stock ecu? the stock ecu has a lot of protection to restrict people increasing boost (like yourself) do you not have a piggyback or remap?

the boost control kit is actually 3 seperate parts, which you can buy from nengun seperately the boost control kit loom the map sensor the solenoid the map sensor is the same as the AVC-R sensor the solenoid is the same as the AVC-R solenoid you can use any solenoid you want as long as its 12v (actually, maybe its 5v?) the powerfc simply switches the ground wire on/off to control boost duty - it wont know its a non legit apexi solenoid so you should be fine the loom is a white connector which plugs into the boost kit port and then runs to the map sensor there are there wires on this loom and it is for the map sensor only (ground, signal and power) the boost solenoid gets power 12v from anywhere and the switched ground wire MUST come from pin 25 on the ECU loom (from memory its 25, it will say WASATEGATE SOLENOID) ie the stock GTST dual stage boost wire you can plug in the boost kit LOOM and run up the map sensor and plug it in and the hand controller with display boost pressure its only when you turn ON the boost kit that the boost profiles are enabled and it starts switching the solenoid on/off to reach target etc so if the boost kit is OFF and you plug in the white socket and run up the map sensor your hand controller will show boost pressure, BOST will have a value in ETC. SENSOR SW CHECK and all will be good.

yep check every fuse and relay to be sure look in engine bay look in boot and next to steering wheel (check every fuse)

no its on the main harness on the GTST it is wire 25 check this on the GTR from memory its the same

it sounds plently big enough i reckon 90 would be fine theres only so much heat extraction the core can do

im using PFC boost kit and have been for a while very happy with it and works well set and forget and has bonus of simplistic safety cut instaed of unlimited boost also when you use the boost kit by default boost correction is enabled in the powerfc from memory it has boost correction for airtemp (GTR only) and low water temp (from memory it runs less boost on cold water)

just find the normal BCNR33 ECU pinout diagram and wire the TPS and speed as you please should be piece of piss to find

let people make their own judgement could be a scam if its too good to be true, probably is

block all the intake piping with glad wrap or some form of plastic film, remove the airflow meter and dont get the coilpacks wet dont spray water all over the shop in the engine bay, there is no need use a degreaser and just wipe it quickly ie dont goto your car wash and bomb the engine bay with a pressure gun thats a no no degreaser and some wipes is all you need

v good info and great read thank you

looks good ant well done and good to hear all sorted and new engine RPM = (SPEED / 28) * 1000 assuming it was dynoed in 4th gear with 4.11 ratio's

mythbusters ahoy today removing the mesh from the airflow meter achieves nothing other than increase the change of reversion the mesh breaks up the airflow pattern thus avoiding reversion much like the accordian style pipework does the same job to the compressor wheel remove the mesh you get reversion, replace the std accordian pipework for perfectly straight 3" steel and you get reversion the standard r34 SMIC is not suitable for 200rwkw its a poor core, its too small and it mounted in the wrong spot after 1 or 2 runs the core is heatsoaked and useless a front mounted larger core is critical for any decent power level yes a 34 SMIC will make a single 200rwkw dyno pass but do the same dyno runs repeatedly with a temperature probe on the core and intake pipework i bet you see 70+deg intake temp. a FMIC in the same conditions is stone cold at the outlet pipework

sweet 1050 is the magical number makes sense the code says if nuetral is off and rpm is more than 1800 and TPS is more than 0.40v but we know what rpm is now 1050

#DEFINE NVCS 1 while (sensor(TPS)>0.40 && !switch(NTR) && int(RPM)<1500) { function(NVCS,1); };

for NVCS to turn on, that is switch the NVCS system on rpm must be over 1500rpm i think, or around 1800rpm, it definetly wont turn on at 0rpm or idle nuetral switch must be off

run stock ecu diag from the consult port or plug in nistune and surely it has some sort of diag? apexi powerfc has the hand controller with on board diag and sensor display surely nistune has some sort of diag if consult doesnt work (it should)

tried yellow pages for sunroof repair? it would be a standard sunroof...

ive run 12psi for about 7 years on my GTST and it's still going with std turbocharger got it at 58,000 and it now has 238,000 on the clock

agree with beer baron and gtscott at least get a smaller turbo, even an r33 std turbo would be better

my bad i thought it sounded odd but its still a dinosaur spec surely there is better sized units

if it was a $300 datsun 180b or a $1000 R32 n/a sure but a 34R with 35k of parts on it?

covered to death in the N/A section did you look there

i dont get it? BNR34 + $35k in parts doesnt sound cheap BNR34 would be able to blow doors off average R33 without a stupid turbocharger like that not worried about reliability on your engine using this turbo? and on a 2.6L it is really way too big sell it or throw it out and at least get something pre this era, T04Z if you must have something big