paulr33

what you lack in power you have in diff gears (lateral acceleration) and weight

yeah disel's run lots of boost so what? they also have heaps of exhaust flow and need it at the lowest rpm possible hence the usually bigger rear housing

yeah dont get wrong good ideas and trying stuff is great and fun but you need to be serious and if you end up with a 500hp car from this mashed combination imagine what it would make with a proper sized turbocharger and the response difference???

the problem here is, you have a turbo for a specific use on a specific engine then you plan to strap it onto something else which it wasnt designed for if the turbo was useful and had value you would be able to search on it ie if it had HKS plastered all over and a specific model you could see how much its worth but as its generic diesel based turbocharger it's basically useless and holds no real value you can turbocharge whatever you like with whatever experience you like at the end of the day its a likely to give a crap results vs a well sized turbocharger to suit the engine capacity shop with the engine size in mind, not the turbocharger size first and then "hope it works ok" without specific part numbers and ID tags no one will know what it is, and most wont care unfortunately as i said, if it was a useful turbocharger it would be worth $$$$ and not "just laying around" we see this all too often generic t04 dinosuar spec someone "gets it for cheap" and it's ass

read my sig

its just odd 4" intake and the 3" intercooler pipework surely the restriction is the other way around ie after pressurized compressor, not before?

how hard have you looked

good work and well done, v detailed write up it is handy being able to fill up with whatever and let the ecu adjust, thats what computers are good at

if what you think is true nissan would have done it from factory imho leave it where it is, its there for a reason and setup in that order

no, your issue is stupidity and confusing things there is "common issue" at 5psi go back to your other thread and dont troll others

whats the common issue people have had? not being able to install boost guages properly? that hose is ordinary as dude seriously go and buy some real hose from autobarn/repco/bursons its probably flexing under pressure and then leaking there is no "common issue" of aftermarket boost guages not working

it's just a car? as long as it's insured whats the issue? if it was $200,000 of irreplacable gold bullion fair enough....

any exhaust shop would be able to fix it unless he has hacked apart the exhaust housing on the std turbo to fit a dump external pipe if he/she has done that just buy another std turbo for $100 from someone selling one

sorry to hear but cant understand why no insurance

id say you cleared up a restriction somewhere and its not using cells which havent been tuned as well as the others this will drive higher knock as the timing may be too high in those cells, or the AFR too lean the intake temp could also be too high from compressor out of efficiency as well

pointless post from me but be sure to note there is twin 2835 with internal gate and external gate setups twin 2835s regardless like disco says is stupid its a cropped GT30 setup basically and who runs twin GT30s???? imho for the original poster the T04Z would probably provide much more linear response vs twin that large

do you really really want the tommy kaira version? is it a MUST have? you might be paying more for essentially a basic GTST just check the pricing and dont get ripped for "basic" mods if you havent brought it yet consider BCNR33 (33 GTR) instead? they are fairly cheap and may save $$ later chasing power with more mods etc something to consider

yes i think its the traction control system

std bov is best forget changin the bov, waste of money, sounds gay and usually makes the car stall or run like ass exhuast get a good jap brand one if you dont want droney just find some local members who have 34s and listen to theirs and see what exhausts they have

fyi a 200rwkw is pretty quick on the street against most cars the 4.11 diff ratio really makes it a quick car in lateral acceleration vs other heavy cars (that have more power, ie v8s) i got my gtst with 58k on the clock and its now got 240k on the clock with the std turbo at 12psi so reliablity is there as well

yep just turn down the boost slowly bit by bit until you slip under the stock ecu limits 300 to 330rwkw is an expensive upgrade its proably easier to sell your car and buy a car with that power level it would certianly be cheaper. i reckon 15k at least in mods and labour

from memory s1 gtst is alloy, s2 gtst is plastic/nylon

vipec doesnt support a native knock sensor? or an off the shelf knock sensor? it must be wired in with a controller box?

thats probably why the stock ecu has lots of protection on the ER34 turn the boost down 1/2psi and try again keep repeating until you avoid the protection then get a piggyback, standalone or remap solution

if you have a choice go the plastic compressor wheel lighter