paulr33

tyre pressure is what helps drop it to 20psi in the rears and dont get your boost controller to trim around gear judge like the avc-r to give you traction imho if you cant get traction get better rubber, wider rubber, better diff, better suspension etc you could def do better with 2.3 60ft with a f**ked diff in my car i was able to get 13.7 @ 105 on my first time at heathcote also with 0 to 100 4.88s and 4.9s

its a std nissan brake setup go see brakes plus and ultratune and some generic local mechanic compare prices between all 3 and away you go don't forget basics and simple price checking and service its a std nissan brake setup, no secrets, no magical parts etc

i reckon you would have zero chance imho go through your insurance and get it fixed then see if vicroads respond but i doubt it if there was a massive hole in the road and they didnt fix it or they were vicroads contractors onsite and they left placards or something on the road then i would say so for sure

if your on a budget why so much on guages???

350 labour thats what i paid to have my diff removed, services and re-fitted so id assume around the same ish that was at a place in thomastown something differentials forget the name sorry

yeah 30 seconds is plenty all the turbo timer does is keep the engine going which keeps the oil and water lines flowing the oil is to cool the bearings to prevent cooking its more crucial with non ball bearing units, so the oem unit is fine with instant shutoff the bearing core wont drop much with 3 minutes of idle the exhaust housing would still be sub 300/400+ deg anyway

yeah if you pull the turbo's off at very least do all the gaskets but yes if you can afford it, replace the turbochargers at the same time and gaskets get all the gaskets from nissan OEM either via rhdjapan.com or nengun.com or greeline.jp

from memory the plugs and sockets are the same but on the manual loom the auto wires are missing

yes exhaust pressure = drive the exhaust wheel harder = drive the compressor wheel = increase boost pressure if you are leaking exhaust pressure you are loosing precious "kinetic" energy thus you get sluggish exhaust wheel performance, which in turn results in sluggish compressor performance its probably a bit laggy as well

for basic drifting you need 200rwkw imho sell your car if its stock and buy a modified GTST already with this power level otherwise going from stock to 200rwkw + basic drift setup ecu 1000 tune 500 exhaust 1200 tyres 600 suspension and diff setup 1000 new diff 1000 good intake 350 boost controller 300 intercooler 600 fuel pump 300 clutch 1200 doesnt include coilovers doesnt include new diff should get some change from 10k be prepared to bin your car and if its your only car rethink if you are ok with loosing your car many have done so before

fix the exhaust leak you are loosing precious back pressure

go speak to centreline in thomastown they have packages to suit

you run a $5 ps2 keyboard extension lead into the hand controller port and just leave the cable coiled up under the carpet i was always able to find r33 GTST powerfcs either on ebay or car forum people selling at reasonable prices, 1100 max yeah powerfc is a mature and stable product plug it in, it works, away you go the whole car computer imho is fiddgety and way over the top apexi should have made a logger box for the powerfc but then its starting to venture in markets it didnt need to so if u want logging you go fc hako or consult

powerfc hand controller imho easier works simple to use easy to remove or sell or keep in the car

what does the gizmo launch interface do? anti lag boxes run spark cut and retard timing which is the killer and does the bang bang boost on tap type arrangement launch control that lets you consistently get off the line is what you want pretty much what the powerfc does with its pro control 0km/h launch ie floor it and revs cap at whatever you like when speed = 0km/h so all you have to worry about is clutching off the line properly and getting traction

buy a GTST or get a real stand alone ECU you needs lots of control and extra precision given its N/A with a turbo on top you have to juggle the compression and extra intake temp recommend powerfc

i replied in your other thread, go read it under driveline

and if you find out its still f**ked DO NOT spend money on the a-lsd system but a real mech diff or a 1.5 centre from nismo i wouldnt spend money on a new a-lsd pump etc if you find your pump is toast imho waste and get a real new centre

the active LSD light stays on when the system fails only the SLIP light should come on when you "loose" traction or when the computer thinks youve lost traction A-LSD is a warning light, if its on, the system has failed and given up and wont run the pump or any try to detect traction loss this usually occurs if the A-LSD computer gets no TPS signal or the wheel sensors are toast have you done any major changes lately? ECU fiddling? stuffing around with ABS or TPS sensors?

tips? buy a vl turbo manual save time money effort pain hassles and it all works

yep i had split vac lines on my GTST for ages only when stressed them out you could see it split i ended up replacing them twice, same issue finally went with thick fuel hose, problem solved no more splits it was always on the actuator signal vac line

no idea, someone else would be able to comment but i suspect there would be subtle differences in the chassis and frame so things like the exhaust etc might not mate up

more less likely to fail would be BNR34 RB26 as it's not as old - given reasonable km usage etc BNR32 and BCNR33 use same ECU control BNR34 has minor differences in the ECU, most notably is the ECU socket wiring is different (and built in immoboliser as part of the ecu) - no idea how that works with the PFC vspec as far as i recall has differences to suspension, 4wd computer logic and other handling characteristics not aware of engine internal differences

19% lower reading sounds a bit far fetched even the guy driving the car said it doesnt feel as punchy?

yeah if you get it wrong you wont have to swap the entire loom, hell no it will be 1 or 2 wires flip around or move etc after all the powerfc is the same unit for s1 and s2 direct plug into the loom plug so there cant be that much difference really the differences as others have said is on the engine side wiring and where things go and the end they all mate to the master loom which meets the ecu loom