paulr33

how did this car peform before the turbo change? we've seen all kinds of whacky theories and debugging based around the hypergear turbochargers its usually the owners trying to cram into 16 psi+ and get poor results or sluggish performance i dont know whats going on, or why, and i dont really want to know, but we see lots of "my car has random issues" after hypergear hiflows go on

hang on what....... what symptoms are you "getting" to give you that idea? if you add more boost and it knocks its a simple case of 1) intake temp too high 2) timing is too advanced 3) poor fuel 4) poor compression 1-> intake temp too high can be yielded from inefficient compressor wheel or compressor out of efficiency, ie way past its island and way out of range, ie 27psi on the stock GTST turbo is wayyyyyyyy past its island and efficiency zone. the result is excessive intake temp, which yields excessive detonation or knocking 2-> you would not want to retard timing to add more boost so discount that as your likely cause, unless your map is MEGA advanced, or your cas is off set (check with timing light at idle). 3-> check the fuel, simple and easy and you never know. but i suspect this has "knocking" issue has come up all of a sudden, or since a big change; ie; new turbo 4-> poor compression, again unlikely to pop up instantly and takes time and age to reach poor compression i would not expect a poor intercooler, that has a pressure drop to cause the symptom of "run more boost, the engine knocks"

330awkw id guess the le mans turbos might be laggy mofo's though ? the pump is your achiellies heel if that pump cant keep up cos its walbro nasty -> good bye BNR34 RB26 and rebuild light is on be wary and double check it is legit and can flow the fuel you require, dont assume, check. the main thing to check is that your fuel pressure doesnt bleed away under heavy load and on full song.

you missed point 4 4). why would you bother? its there from factory for a purpose, why remove it, why re-invent the wheel? to gain what ?

wow kinda all over the place ok replumbing the external gate shouldnt affect fuel economoy or performance (only if your exhaust is ass it might) i would replumb the entry point after the 02 sensor pressing in clutch at high speed and stalling is related to either idle RPM not set (ie too low or high) or you didnt do self idle adjustment properly (covered in PFC FAQ) check the idle RPM settings and see if you can tweak these a little. if no good you will to do DATA INIT (copy your tune first) then do self idle adjust. exhaust temp light is NOT used in powerfc the exhaust temp light is RED do you mean orange check engine light? the powerfc users this when a sensor has failed or is outside range when this happens view ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK. the dead sensor will be blackhighlighted the powerfc, much like the stock ECU has limp mode for basic sensor failure this is usually the TPS or AFM. either of these can trigger limp mode, ie rev cap at 2500rpm and shit mappings to save the engine from blowing up

yeah that sounds like the AFM plug if its 3 wire its series 2 GTST, if its 4 wire its series 1 GTST for all intensive purposes S1 and S2 AFM and ECU are same there are minor differences, most noticable is S2 is 3wire, vs S1 4 wire AFM (duplicated ground wire) the ECU's have minor differences and there is the MEC chip difference as well basically if you get it all running and you have the wrong MEC chip type the car runs like ass, is sluggish as f**k and basically runs like a whore so if you hit this, check the basics, then try another stock ECU ive got a stock series 2 ecu here so if your stuck can help (ie if you have s1 ECU and it runs like ass all sensors etc look OK) a very vauable tool when doing engines swaps is get a working consult cable that way you can tap into the basic onboard diag and check every sensor from a single screen it even tells why the engine fails to start ie ENGINE FAILED TO START, 3 TIMES, SENSOR XYZ... CHECK

yeah the prob with the stock SMIC (any stock SMIC) is it's location and core size once it has some heat in it, from repeated boosting - the core is practically useless, i bet its too hot to touch on both sides after a twisty road quick thrash i see no legit reason to keep a SMIC or upgrade to the ER34 SMIC most of the other mods make the car defectable just as much

there isnt a lot of science to an intercooler core as long as its big - how hard can it be its a big heatsink

if you just want one setting, then change the actuator spring no need for a controller at all also running dual stage boost or "high" and "low" just allows for failures and over-boosting ie if you cant safely run "high" then why run it at all? run and set the car for the highest safe setting and control the car with your right foot

agree with gotrice. not giving you a hard time but we see lots of people trying to "fit" thats that arent meant to fit or werent designed for the skyline and end up spending more $ to make them fit or work in the end you could have got an off the shelf kit for same price and it would have mated up etc its becoming more common things like xr6 turbo parts, evo parts

put it where it was before you starting playing around thats how nissan set it up, thats probably the most suitable at the back of the plenum you will be compensating for pressure loss making the compressor probably work harder (which is why its louder)

so the actuator is getting its signal from the back on the plenum? (where the stock guage reads from) previously it would have been reading from the compressor outlet pipe work or after the core so there would likely be a bit of pressure difference between the two ie what pressure is at the compressor wheel != pressure at the back of the plenum imho, you should give the actuator a signal as close to the outlet as possible (r32 GTST style, which is from the compressor housing itself) the further away, the more pressure loss you are compensating for (ie work compressor wheel harder)

and you wonder why the cops would patrol such areas...

schnitzel and veg satay beef stirfry penne pasta bake peri peri chicken other shit bang on $101

and you get no warning...

so your saying people dont go for 3am twisty runs

for BNR34 powerfc is bulletproof and cheap and you can buy it new plug and play for BNR34 with el hand controller what is wrong with common? common means there is lots of support (the powerfc faq, over 29,000 words, 154 pages) common means there are lots of tuners (you can choose price and service) common means its well proven and works the bnr34 is such a nice car id hate to see you end up with an emanage mangled mess

oh wow its drive by wire gotcha well the only way to bypass that is to give that sensor or logic a bullshit speed reading, ie always 37km/h but who knows how you would do that or how you would bypass it, its probably from the main ecu itself good luck with the fcon

word riggs

who needs a sump does a holden camira have a sump as if the holden camira isnt a good track car

run 6 oil catch cans

i dont think china itself has a global quality control issue i think its more a fact that there is some crap stuff coming out which is "referenced" as china cheap so everyone blames china i reckon the HKS factory is probably in china and it is very strict afterall china is a global manufacturing region and everything comes from there tvs, computers, cars, ovens, watches, stereos, engines and not just turbochargers there are some clear and obvious baddies to be aware of and these probably reflect bad people in china who copy stuff, not china itself its like the cisco counterfeit hardware in shincanzen (spelling) there a factories that spit out cisco 12k and GSR/CRS line cards which are rip off but cisco cant pick the difference and pass it as legit, even though its not. so its not the countries fault, but specific areas.

be wary if it is not supported, it could do all kinds of things to the ECU or the setup imho sell it and get a proper solution such as nistune, remap or powerfc, even an SAFC if you must a fuel cut defender is pretty brutal and not a good solution

200 for half decent rears is good and who expects top notch grip in the wet with a turbo GTST or GTR you expect it to kick out sooner or later on full load

melt wizard. what do you want to melt him with?