paulr33

whats the restriction? is it based off TPS? i cant see the FCON letting you intercept the TPS and cap it check out how DAN666 beats the ER34 one it has a similar "feature" where the ER34 panics on mega throttle theres some cap by pass thingy he worked out

fix the exhaust something is wrong, the std turbo should never creep like that if the actuator is disconnected, its unlimited boost mode and the wastegate will never open so never run with disconnected actuator

oh sorry is it on the box not sure, but it would be on the warranty card inside if you have the original packaging

yeah it has a serial # on the side of the case on the main sticker its usually like RB26-XXXX-XXXX-XX or BCNR33L-XXXXX-XXXX-XXXXX so yes a unique serial number

well youve been told whats wrong, fix the boost control its way too much for the standard ECU it has aggressive proteciotn built in for stupidheads that try things like that so either turn the boost down replace the stock ecu with a stand alone or remap the standard ecu

as i said, the stock ecu has lots of protection built in if boost is rising, something is wrong if its a bog stock GTST with an exhaust boost should be 7psi bang on if its spiking and going past 10psi ish then it will hit the stock ecu protection and youll loose all the power

search on the tutorial section, the Z32 probably has two ground wires

flat spots can exist if you are using the wrong MEC chip for your engine type that is, if you have a RB25 and youve picked up any old R33 ECU and hope it works i dont know why or how but it matters i had a R33 ECU remap on my GTST and it was the wrong MEC chip and it run like ass like absolute ASS. why i have no idea, the remapper said "WRONG MEC CHIP TYPE" so whatever that means so if your setup is part of an engine swap / ecu swap etc, check this

the stock ECU does not have flat spots on the map on purpose, or by design the stock ecu is designed for basic engine control, reasonable power and lots of protection it does, however, have lots of protection built in if you up the boost or make it work harder than it should then, it resorts to simplistic and retarded mapping and fairly conservative tune settings so by swapping ecu's youll achieve zero the tune is hardset, it doesnt forgot or become lazy etc id say you have a basic issue, a sensor missing or something simple check the basics

excessive heat, excessive detonation, increased temps, poor oil, excessive exhaust temps etc are what kills an engine boost is usually seperate to these, but a higher driver and can influence what kills the motor ie high boost, high intake temp, leads to detonation, leads to piston failure and ringlands toast etc the state of tune and compression among many other things play a part in how long it can last, or how reliable it may, or may not be one thing for sure the more boost, the more stress, the more heat, the more likely to detonate, the more likely to fail ie if you can run 14psi effeciently and make good power vs run 18psi and ring its neck for an extra 11kw, stick with 14psi be sure every psi extra you add you gain power and torque otherwise its pointless and increases failure rate or rapidly reduces mean time between failure ie dont run 14psi and have a nice sweet tune and then just add in more boost to "hope" it makes more power check and be sure, otherwise you might be adding more heat and risk for no gain, or in some cases, less gain from increased detonation and intake temps

such complicated issues tackled in here reminds me of pillowtalk on the austereo network or the "net at night"

i can remember the big lego expo they used to hold at melbourne central tops

this

agree, djetro and ljetro (ref DVS32R) both are the same to tune and setup, and i think from memory the djetro takes longer as you have to work so much harder at the transient throttle process more to get it nice, vs AFM that is bulletproof on the factory maps on the powerfc, ie you dont have to focus so much on that area (from no throttle, to light throttle) both will make same power and response but will perform differently as far as mapping and scaling are concerned but back on topic, you should not max twin Z32s with T04Z

it sounds like ass, like a big wet fart pathetic and pointless imho it's almost as good as wastegate flutter with teh lolz

where did u get the car bra from looks good

that rx7 is ass

i got all my gym stuff from rebel sport just the cheap $20 shorts and tshirts its for trainnig who cares what it is

try doing stock ECU reset as well after youve changed the sensor in case its stuck in some silly recovery mode or has correction applied etc cant hurt, takes 2 seconds

yeah you can try the FCON, its actually a great ECU but the problem is lack of tuners, so you might be locked into say 1 workshop in vic so your stuck with their tune, their pricing and how it is setup etc with a locally supported ECU you can pick your price and workshop basically find out how much to remove it and revert to stock loom if its mega then yeah i would stick with it and tune with cable but if its half normal to rip the loom out and revert to std loom do that then you cna go nistune, powerfc, vipec etc many plugin options (and easily resellable) the FCON wont sell for much cos no one wants it

thank you for direct port nitrous, ball bearing turbos and four core intercoolers

i know where u can get the data cable but u still need someone to tune it ie sell it and buy a supported ECU is your best bet just make sure its the plug and play model and not hardwired if its hardwired your in for some nasties trying to remove it

jamezilla has a pic of his 33R with roof racks and bikes on the roof from autosalon 05

race car = one with full cage, no interior or dash surrounds, fuel setup in boot, track specific tyres and suspension etc