paulr33

yeah buffer underrun was nasty do you remember the princo cd's such coasters from them they were the first $1 blankies to come out back when kodak gold's were $5 each i think when i first got my burner kodak gold 1ea was $25 haha thats insane

why do you expect or believe the FCON would make more power? i see no reason why the FCON would make more torque or more power (or less) if both are tuned correctly you should get the same result the main difference is how long it would take the tuner with both systems

bring back the very first cd burners how good were they creative cd studio on win98 with a ISA scsi card and an external 2 spin CD writer awesome it would underrun on double spin burn quality

bronze TE37

Chicken and cous cous

bomber has wired that hatch which puts him in the crazy, but not stupid section

250kw at the wheels it would be probably 290kw at the flywheel the auto box might be ok and should be i would think at that power level

if your going to spend the money, i would just do it properly nismo 550cs and be done with it you may find stuffing around with s15s a pain as there are differernt for ADM/JDM manual and auto as well and you have to find 6 as well go for it if u want but you may find it simply easier and over all cheaper in the end by going nismo's bosch and siemens are fine as long as you dont have to mangle plugs, change rails etc and you can hook them up. afterall, the nismo ones would be made by jecs or bosch anyway

but its there to normalise the results so that if you dyno your car in darwin in summer and make whatever rwkw and you compare it to another skyline with the same turbo in winter in tasmania that way with correction you both make roughly the same power if all things are equal and both engines ie are the same etc without correction he makes tons more you make tons less and you think his is either super quick or yours is super slow

the correction is included (you can elect not to use it, ie non shootout mode) on the dyno runs to standarise the measurement so if you dyno a skyline in australia on a 20deg day at whatever sea level pressure then dyno the same skyline in dubai with 48deg day on whatever sea level pressure you can accurately compare the two otherwise without the correction the one in dubai would be well off due to the excessive intake temp

well its a calculated risk if you can afford to replace the turbo and replace the engine in case both go bang then go for it

fat pizza pizza theyre big and theyre cheesy

show your badge? the man has a gun and is shooting at you, shoot him

as the others have said over and over 10 to 12psi is the general acceptable limit anything more adds more risk the engine can fail when the turbo blows its not guaranteed, but its a risk for each psi extra you add in you typically gain less and less as you go out of the efficiency zone and you dial in craploads more heat. so more boost, more air, more heat, more stress the stock SMIC is pathetic and i would not run 12psi on the stock SMIC if you do, it will work and wont affect the turbo what-so-ever, ie a FMIC doesnt make 12psi safe on the std turbo. the intake temps will however be excessive on the SMIC as it can only heat exchange so much being a small core and low airflow. so 12psi on the SMIC is probably ok, but far from efficient, 12psi with a FMIC would be a better car

thanks heaps that wheel shop is good would pref 17" over 18

damn the rota's are cheap 1200 for all 4 brand new far out

any decent wheels shops online in aus to check out the advans need to go and want some new wheels but not like 4k rays ones just reasonable looking but not mega dish or 5k worth

i brought nearly 3 years ago and im 30 now

for the rb20det with the std manifold etc in place go for a highflowed rb20 turbo good power, great factory response and steel components brand new vs 20yr old+ ceramics for ecu check out nistune for a remap option for stand alone check out vipec, powerfc for injectors look at GTR injectors for plenum look at greddy legit plenum or jun, try to avoid ebay copies with a good tune and you driving it NORMALLY you can get 400kms to a tank if you flog it non stop on boost expect 250kms to a tank or less

sounds risky does your ECU have a hand controller style feature ie can you adjust the tune without going to a tuner?

that vw looks like ass

yeah if its just ebay i spose who cares if u get bad feedback

the turbo is made by HKS and it's called a GT-RS if you google for GTRS youll find tons of pages of random crap if you browse in the turbo upgrade section you should plenty of RB25s with GT-RS fitted but its not a cheap upgrade you need to upgrade fuel pump injectors airflow meter nistune tune of nistune (or whatever option) turbo kit itself tyres intercooler so whilist the turbo kit may only be 2.5k the other stuff really adds up

check the basics when did the car last work whats changed sinced it last worked

yeah thats true just cop the negative feedback but just start the fricken auction at the minimum price youd take ffs