paulr33

yeah cant hurt theres a howto in the tutorial and i did it on my car, cant be too hard

by pumping the accel all you do is open the throttle body to let air in so if the AAC is toast or gunked up etc then it may not let enough air in, and opening the throttle body, effectivetly does this iac - idle air control aac - auxiliary air control

yep 2nd hand is your only option

the car should start the same if its hot or cold do you mean the water temp is cold ,30deg ish and its hot out side 35deg and it doesnt start? or after driving it, in summer, when you goto restart car whilst still hot, it doesnt start ?

you shouldnt need to use them if you have to use them to stop your engine pinging/detonating your tune is toast, your CAS is toast, you are running too much boost, or too shit fuel tune the car correctly and you shouldnt need to run octane booster

do not go for a remap, it is basically a mail order tune or a stuck remap, ie you cant touch it the problems are lack of tuners, cost to retune it and hardware needed you are far better off getting a locally supported ECU option check out apexi powerfc, nistune or vipec all will give you what you want my pref is powerfc - see the FAQ in my signature for why

ordered powerfc with nengun, it arrived within 5 days including a weekend (when jap postal was over weekends), no issues with delays or "not turning up" used them for a few other things too

nengun.com rhdjapan.com

thanks shan thought there would be some secret diag boot but not in front of it and wasnt sure

the powerfc updates the tune in real time, and then when you key off, commits the changes to NVRAM in the powerfc FAQ there is a section on this exact issue, search in the FAQ for "ECCS" and youll find a section on how to correctly set it up on your car, as youve done an engine swap, the ECU isn't given enough time when you power the key off, so it doesnt get enough time to save to NVRAM, thus any change is blown away the ECCS diagram shows you how it should be setup and how it needs to be wired in

anyone know much about macs in here got a mac desktop about 1 yr old i think turn it on, it boots up to a white screen with "FILE" in the middle and does nothing else it reported some error the other day, the owner doesnt remember what it said and it was working fine, then came home to locked up mac, rebooted it and it boots to white screen with "FILE" in the middle im guessing toast hdd ? any other ideas or tricks ?

ah there you go, it is 4.3 thats odd, i would have expected highway style gears for auto 4.363 - R34 RB25DE 4WD, R34 RB25DE Manual, R34 RB20E, R33 RB25DE 4WD, R33 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DE, R32 RB20DET, R32 RB20E, C35 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20DE Manual A31 Cerfiro RB20DET, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Manual, S13 CA18DET, S13 CA18DE, C23 Serena SR20DE 2WD, C23 Serena CD20T 2WD 4.111 - R34 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DET Manual, C35 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C35 Laurel RB20DE Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C34 Laurel RB20DE Auto, S13 SR20DE (ABS),

nah 4.3 is higher, meaning more acceleration i dont reckon the auto would be 4.3, more like 3.9 or 3.7 - ie highway diff gears

get a hand controller, it will save you endless guessing "why is my engine light flashing" and how do it change this the auto diff from memory is 3.9 and maunal is 4.11 so you will loose a touch of response for top end speed

ive got the rsm in my car and my understanding is it only caps the speed signal when you set it to it uses the g-sensors for lateral correction to pickup wheel spin and also you enter car weight as well imho i dont think it will bend the speed signal, but just cap when you tell it to

twin 2835R externals for GTR is where it's at

twin 3037s or GTFO

porsche GT3 RS bright orange

loves it

thankfully you have jacked up the car correctly DO NOT EVER get under the car on a dodgy jack or without proper support typically when under the car you cant be f**ked doing it properly, but it may save your life doing it the right way put chocks under it, put a wheel under it, put something solid under it, if it falls let it damage the wood/chocks/wheel etc and not your head people die from falling cars under a jack so dont skip the 30 seconds it will take good write up ill move it

the old shell vpower racing 100octane from shell was 5% ethanol and it was fine in the skyline you gained zero power but you gained a bucket load of resistance to detonation/knocking 10% ethanol might be a different story and may be enough to alter the AFRs enough that it could be unsafe etc, best to have a workshop who has worked with ethanol comment before using it

you reckon the BA was no good? it was a good step forward for ford new build, new engine from scratch, drive by wire, performance range before the BA they were really lacking any decent performance models

if the pipework after it is 2.5" then its basically the same?

well in front of the compressor is sea level pressure, and after compressor outlet is boost + sea level pressure, known as psia yeah i can see how the anti surge slots need a wide snout, but 4" just sounds so big, specifally if you are running 3" std piping after the compressor

those who "deem" 4 inch inlet as necessary, what size is intercooler pipework?