paulr33

johnoo is spot on, you must match what loom and sensors you have it sounds like in your car they have remapped an RB20 ECU to run like an RB25, which is possible, but you need to buy an RB25 powerfc and well to powerfc ownership, good step, first of all check the powerfc FAQ in my signature, has everything you need

why try and re-invent the wheel? the stock log manifold is fine and will be ok for your turbocharger

whats news application submitted, see how i go

hey the new rego stickers are orange

sorry to hear, hope it was insured where do you live and how do you know there is a massive racket on vic?

ringwood performance exhaust is bang on been there, good work and good bloke

haha did you go for a drive in al's? nigel was the old co-owner of ice performance from about 5 years, he had a 32R with a big external setup and the firewall was on fire, from the dump pipe heat

haha thats no good, reminds me of nigel's gtr when the firewall was set on fire i work for telstra, currently team leader of network designers/builders what about yourself grant

if your smart enough to work out how to run SRS Diag, you should be able to look up the codes? only other thing i can think of is try the airbag clear reset it's in the howto section, something like opening door, turning key on and pressing door latch 7 times or something obscure like that to reset airbag

far out 32R's must be pretty painful it sounds like? applying for a snr manager position, wish me luck

will there be anything else? yes do you have a miss piggy

10psi is OK, but once you turn it up, you may likely hit R&R which is where the ECU will cut the timing and make it run sluggish to protect itself it basically has a safety protection built it to stop people doing things like that. to get around it you need to remap it or get a stand alone try 10psi and see how you go. when you hit R&R its dead obvious, the car will be accelerating then it will feel flat for a bit, then the power will come back on again also youll fry your std clutch so buy a heavy duty single plate

RPM = (SPEED / 28) * 1000 to work out RPM from a speed based dyno plot, assumes 4th gear with 4.11 diff gears

when the engine check light comes on, you need to check ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and see which sensor highlights my advice is leave the hand controller on this SENSOR SW CHECK screen all the time and when the engine light comes on look over and see whats highlighted if the TPS is toast then it will highlight it a busted TPS or one that goes out of range will kill A-LSD/4WD as the A-LSD/4WD computer in the boot needs constant stable TPS signal to detect how hard you flog the car if TPS goes out of range the A-LSD/4WD computer will panic and go into failsafe mode, ie light comes on and it stays in RWD/Non vspec mode

0.41 sounds Ok to me when you mash pedal with ignition on but car not running does TPS % change, the voltage on PFC should also follow if TPS is toast or out of range the PFC will throw on the engine check light and its name will highlight under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK with a black background when does 4WD/A-LSD light come on? every time?, erracticaly? somtimes? what mods done to the car? has it always been broken or only recently?

you add more timing on the map (advance it) the more you advance it, the more efficient the engine becomes, but the more likely it knocks / detonates so you advance slowly in small increments until you find the knocking point, and take of 2deg lets say at cell 4,4 its the load point for 2100rpm to 2400rpm and its say 18deg IGN Timing. drive around go past the range under normal acceleration or whatever and see if it knocks if it doesnt, change the IGN timing for that cell to say 20deg and repeat can you build a kncok map with your software? datalogit does this very well you bascially drive around and it logs all knocking values onto the map tracer format so for every cell you can see min/max/avg kncoking then you know which cells have too much timing and which cells dont have enoguh timing (ie knocking is 0)

im sure people have gone past 300rwkw with the std core to confirm and check you need to check the airtemp past the intercooler outlet i wouldnt expect the core to become magically inefficient at 320rwkw instead of 300rwkw spend the money on tyres, suspension, reducing weight, better tune, cam gears etc

i dont reckon it would be needed the std GTR core is pretty good kit and an aftermarket one, if anything will only add a little bit better resistant to heat soak if anything imho retune not needed and your wasting your money on retune are you trying to gain power by changing the core? surely better things to spend your $ on to make the car go faster than a different intercooler core

fit a std BOV and it will clear the issues of flutter the BOV only fires when you close the throttle body so it wont affect the throttle body always on (auto gearbox style) imho fit a bov nissan made it std for a good reason

no i believe the bonnet is setup like that and makes a pressure zone i dont remember the physics behind it, but i think raising the bonnet makes it worse for temps did you raise the bonnet at same time of engine rebuild?

check wastegate / actuator operation if the gates are held open, the car will be sluggish, lack power, make some levels of boost (low) and wont blow smoke etc, but will be sluggish check the actuator signal, where does that vac line run to? and check actuator operation, does it open? is it stuck open?

haha sounds like nbajam shoot shoot down shoot shoot at the tonights match up screen - always on-fire

what changed during the rebuild, obviously the engine i get that, but what different water pump? different fans? dont raise the bonnet, that probably makes it worse

copy xmodem: flash:c3500xl-c3h2s-mz.120-5.WC10.bin Begin the Xmodem or Xmodem-1K transfer now... oldschool xmodem fiddlesticks

get a girlfriend or friend to drive and just drive in normal mode, ie you dont have to load it up mega to tune the ignition timing and basically dial in as much timing as you can without knocking, when you reach the knocking point, back off 2deg and your done i did this on my gtst with a powerfc and thats all there is too it really, make sure you dont dial in too much ie add +2 deg to the whole map, plod around (dont load it past 3k) and see how it knocks then if you see no knock in low area, repeat again i was able to add +12deg under 3k on my GTST and the results were amazing never laod it past 3k with that much extra timing but under 3k should be ok this should change the car from normal/sluggish/doughey to sharp and crisp