paulr33

yep could be fixed, but there would be a lot of complexities behind it a simplistic rule 25% is a good number

well that's for bog stock GTST with std everything. i would expect as power goes up, so does wear and tear, friction, losses etc but its probably very linear in relation to power you make. like the loss might double at say 950kw who knows?

for my gtst it is 74% difference from engine power to rear wheels, 187kw becomes 140kw at the rear wheels i would assume the same relationship for horsepower, however gtr has 4wd as well so maybe %1/2% variance ?

i dont believe so as S1 TPS is different to S2 TPS wiring check what TPS you have visually, get a photo of it

yeah shane its just next to the school for the blind near around 550ish st kilda rd if they read out the numbers or you see them

what model evc? post a pic if you can and when you say it doesnt work, what doesnt work

i think only the GTT would have this sensor, it would be a standard 2 bar map sensor its used by the ECU to watch for excess boost and then when it detects excess boost, it probably cuts fuel and timing i see no reason why the GT N/A would have this sensor. as zebra said, map sensors have a single rating, ie 2 bar map sensor, but they read 1 bar vacuum and rest is "boost". so a 2 bar map sensor reads to 1 bar boost. a 3 bar map sensor reads to 2bar boost etc.

standard boost for the R32 GTST is 12psi the max you would want to run would be 14psi even 14psi is probably a risk, if the turbocharger fails (ceramic wheel lets go) it can put the engine at risk so not only will the turbocharger fail, but it can require an engine rebuild to some users run 14psi day in day out no problem, some even 16psi etc so its all a calculated risk vs consequences really

rimon most auto places would have this i would think as long as you match the thread size and pitch a generic part would be fine

sounds reasonable to me and makes logical sense as far as tuning goes trent would have a lot of experience here i think for map sensor setups, particulary on ITB setups, the challenge is the transition and light load areas as you mentioned. once its on full boost and pressure is constant its fairly straight forward 1d tuning. the light load, transition from vacuum to boost is where it needs work / attention as you have found

when the usb dongle is working it will just appear as a COM port in windows ie you dont map a serial com port to a USB com port your laptop should have zero com ports, then when you install the USB dongle, a new COM port should appear you choose this in datalogit or the software etc as a last resort either a toughbook with true serial ports or go for dell 2nd hand ebay junker laptops usually have working serial ports and cheap as chips

from what i have seen, heard of, read and results etc external wastegate setups are more expensive usually more complex better response better control the two main points are the last two

and the physical loom plug is different, so even if you decide to be super crazy and pin swap, the physical plugs are different

the most we have seen with OP6 rear is 270rwkw on mild GTST with 98 fuel the most we usually see with std GTST rear (non OP6) on a mild GTST is around 260rwkw theres about 10rwkw difference between the normal housing and OP6

auto volume control for the tv box works awesome no more loud ad's and annoying volume changes it looks like the next gen of recieves have this built in anyone got a reciever that does that? i think the current pioneers have this built in would love to hear if anyone has it

yeah its a lot of complexity and work for minimal gains, the costs dont justify it besides a basic GTST (like mine) can wind up 12psi before 2800rpm so how much more do you need really? it's all in the tune

if its going back to stock a simple DATA INIT will load the default maps, AFM ramps and all the settings obviously you will loose your current tune if you do this, but thats the sure fire way or do you just need to revert to stock AFM ramps and keep everything else modified as-is? its a 5 minute task in datlaogit to load the stock AFM ramps

so amongst all the crap charlie you need to really identify your current mods, how much you want to spend and what power you want to make as the power goes up, so does the spend and the rate at which things break so be reasonable, ie dont say your happy with 300rwkw and want to spend 3k be realistic and you should be ok a basic GTST with std turbo is good for 200rwkw a mild GTST with hiflow is good for 250rwkw a mildish GTST with internal large is good for 300rwkw a heavy GTST with external large is good for 350rwkw so pick your target, again, each power band, the cost goes up exponetially

i got no issues with "should be fine" with 2nd hand units the question here is, if you fit 2nd hand stockers, can you afford rebuild if the rebuild light comes on when the turbocharger fails? if yes buy 2nd hand, if no, buy new its a calculated risk just be wary is all hate to see him fit 2nd hand n1's only to have them shit a bearing and your up for 5k rebuild to save $1000 on turbochargers

they fit the profile of N1's 0.60 a/r compressor and 0.64a/r rears but why would you want n1's. they are the worst of the twins in terms of lag/power/response either stick with your stockers which are 0.53a/r and 0.48a/r rears or go for GT-SS or garrett equivs (in my sig) you would be insane to buy 2nd hand turbos and put them on your nice fresh engine == timebomb if you remove the turbochargers, new would be the only way

only if the powerfc has a serial # in the format GTR33 if its in the format RB26 then you need FCC NT or product code 414-N001 or the new EL hand controller will work as well

i knew a guy who reckon'd he had two cop chips in his commodore

i heard from the guys about 2 weeks ago, maybe on holidays?

for what it's worth any ECU can make power, any ECU can make 100rwkw, 200rwkw, 800rwkw, 1200rwkw how the ECU is tuned, the car, the usage requirement, it's usability, how it installs, features, support when things go wrong, price and availability of tuners is what is the deciding factor when choosing an ECU so forget how much power a guy can make using an ECU

i failed year 11 and don't have any VCE i got the report from VBOS i have no certificate