dancn

I've bought a no running project R32 GTR, with an engine problem. I've no history of the car, or any info on the engine problem. I suspect the car has been usused for a long time. I have little to no compression. readings taken on cold (obviously) engine 70,35,0,0,0,0psi. i had suspected piston damaged/holed pistons etc.. I pulled off the cam covers, all looks good, all lobes being well lubbed, oil light extinguishes after several cranks of the starter motor. From the small amount of the pistons i can see through the sparkplug holes, they appear ok, with this limited viewing area, all pistons are moving during cranking. My cranking speed is quite slow, much slower than all my RB25s. Valve timing look good also. I thought of valve lifter problems, but I believe the RB26 are not hydraulic? The thing thats throwing me off the piston damage is for such a dramatic drop in compression, surely the oil would have shot out the catch tank, dipstick area, but oil level is fine, no evidence of excessive crank pressure. Before I pull the head off for a look any ideas?

Just got another r33 GTS-t, bought it cheap as a project, and have a list of items to repair. It has a nasty steering pull at times. Mainly after the suspension is recompressed after lifting on a bump on the road ( when the weight of the car goes back onto the wheels) When it lands after a bump it makes a dive to one side. I've also notice the steering wheel is off when straight ahead by a few degrees. It drives ok on smooth surfaces,with a mild pulling. But lift over bumps and its scary.... So what is bent, would a simple alignment check help?

Anyone that's changed a rocker cover gasket on a RB20det confirm the part no?

These are the rb25det p/nos for rocker cover gaskets: 1327058S01 and 1327058S11 Can someone confirm if these are the same on the RB20DET, is there anything else required when fitting? washers etc... thanks.

I’m having some problems with a new clutch kit on my RB25det. So I’m looking closer at the flywheel. I’ve noticed a slight step between the pressure plate ‘mounting face’ and the ‘working face’ ( where the friction plate makes contact) of the flywheel. The working face is slightly higher, How much of a step should be between the pressure plate mounting face and the working face of the stock RB25det flywheel? Is this step there to allow the working area to be machined.

Why would a clutch pedal become lighter after 300 miles on a new clutch kit. R33 GTS 2.5t, push type Here’s my ongoing clutch saga>> My GTS-t was bought with a slipping clutch; i fitted a standard exedy replacement. I noticed 2 things immediately after fitting the new kit. 1. my pedal was much lighter, index finger could fully depress it to the floor 2. At first I thought it was wheelspin over bumps, but it was slippage, not there for a few days, then returned again until I finally pulled the kit out again, and fitted a GTR push type kit. There is no preload from the slave onto the fork, I can easily push the cylinder away from the fork recess at rest. After fitting the GTR kit, my pedal pressure was restored and much like before, there was no slippage noticed at first, but I drove the car to work one day (40miles, cruising), and that evening on the way home the slipping started again. It was noticed first under light midrange throttle, and the pedal pressure was light like before. There is no contamination of the friction plate, gearchanges are smooth and not notchy. Anyone help with his one, has my pressure plate lost it’s clamping pressure? Hence the light pedal, or is there something else?

Thanks for the replys… I got the front wheels off (for the 1st time) for a look, and surprise, surprise, I’ve got a wheel spacer kit on the front !!, as well as the rear !! They look to be about 1” thick, This car has the wider GTR wings (guards) , so I guessing they were fitted to make the wheel fill out the wheel arch. So I’m guessing that the offset is screwed up. I want to use the car for comfortable street use. Only downside is if I remove the spacer the wheel (blitz racing type3) hits the brake caliper. The castor rods are stock, with some perishing of the rubber to be seen, but no excessive movement when levered. I’ll need to get 2 front stock wheels with the spacers removed on the front and see how it handles.

I’ll try and start with an alignment check, and inspect the bushings, but the usual clunking over bumps that comes with worn bushes is not apparent, there doesn’t seem to be any looseness when driving, it just seems to be a handful. I’ll need to check for any non standard suspension components. What I have spotted so far is a rear wheel spacer kit, to give a wider track, the car also has blitz racing split rims, front and rear. Can someone post the factory geometry settings, I need to take the figures with me when I get the alignment checked. The nearest place here in Ireland doesn’t list Jap imports suspension settings. thanks

Hi All, My R33 GTSt has some steering/handling issues, which are most noticeable on poor road surfaces. On sections of road that camber slightly, it has a tendency to pull on the steering toward the side of the road, like severe tramlining. Also if it hits a dip at the side of the road, it tends to dart toward the direction of the dip in the road. AFAIK I have standard struts/ride height at all 4 corners. On flat, and twisty roads there is no pulling of the steering wheel, and in a straight flat road I can let my hand off the wheel, and it doesn’t veer to any one side. This is my second R33 GTSt, and is much harder to drive than the first. On uneven roads, I continuously correcting/fighting the steering, especially at higher speeds. The first car did try to tramline,at low speeds, but nowhere near as bad as my current car. (on the same bad roads), and was much more predictable and stable at speed. The first car had the same tyres/ wheel size, R17, 265 rear, 235 front, wall heights 45 I think, I can check later. Although the offsets could be different. I disconnected the battery overnight and centred the steering, in case of the HIcas being the cause, I noticed no difference Anyone any ideas what would cause these handling characteristics. thanks for reading

Hi all, Done lots of searching, but can't find another case like this. Also a thread on this here, what I've done so far: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33274 Have noticed a metalic type sound ( like worn cam) from my rb25det when cold. It goes away complelty in about 3 mins, once the engine has warmed a bit. Oil pressure is good. The only time its not there when cold is on the overun after a little throttle is applied,( less load) ie while the revs are dropping back down to idle. (car stationary,hand on throttle linkage) After 3 mins or so the noise goes away. any ideas?

Got one of these for my R33 GTS-T 2.5, hope to fit it next week. Anyone got pics of an install that works well, & still using the std boost solenoid. Would like if possible to run a switch inside to switch the std solenoid open/closed, so I can run a lower boost on long journeys.

Hi Busky, the amount of guys that have purchased my turbotech to replace GFB's is ridiculous. GFB's are bleeders and although they can alter boost, they can't control it as they are not gated. You try so hard to get boost, why the hell would you want to bleed it off!! They are just a gadget designed by people who dont really understand boost. Being a gated controller, spike is minimal as noted so many times in previous threads. Some experience a little bit while others experience no spike at all. Also, I apologise for lack of input in the thread lately Iv'e been damn flat out. Mark Williams Turbotech [email protected] <{POST_SNAPBACK}>