R33NT

INASNT quick aside question but what field of engineering are you in????

Seriously call Mark at Hills in sydney and he will change your mind!

I saw a NA supra (new shape) running the quarter up her in NT. He was so ashamed he actually pulled the number plates of his car before he ran 16.2s over the quarter, either he was useless or the NA supra is all show and no go. I heard that later on in the evening some mates pulled up next to him in a 100 series turbo diesel land cruiser wanting to race him at a set of lights but he didnt want to

Are you mad?? HPC coating all the way. I am up here in the territory and i am forced to use strapping. If i where south and someone in my city could do ceramic thermal coating (HPC) i would pull my car to peices and do the 1) Intercooler pipes. 2) Turbo (exhaust side) 3) Exhaust manifold 4) Intake manifold. etc If you want to go even further you can use a special thermal insulating spacer block between your intake manifold and the head. At the moment if i go for a drive after about 10minutes my engine heatsoaks and it starts to detonate. I am going around to a mates workshop with some thermal tape i have bought to wrap it today.

Why buy a HKS jobbie?? I have talked to GCG in NSW that will high flow a stock turbo and here is the best part for insurance purposes it the turbo looks stock. By high flowing they replace all the guts. I also talked to one of the blokes at Hills motorsport in NSW yesterday and he says he can rebuild my turbo with all sorts of flash internals.

I think you have got the wrong idea about the Power FC. The apexi power FC uses load points. The load points represent different levels of pressure in the manifold as such if your car is tuned and it has been tuned upto the load point representing 12psi (and above) then all should be good. Remember that the PowerFC is a complete replacement and doesnt JUST control fuel. In essence it doesnt adjust the fuel maps the person tuning the car sets the fuel maps and the car senses it has hit 12psi and uses the according values in the fuel and timing tables. Fuel economy!!!! You are driving a turbo charged car, trying to extract more power and you are worried about fuel economy!!!! Simplest thing is to drive it off boost in which case you might as well go and trade your skyline in on an Accent then bolt on a F40 rear wing and a 2.5inch exhaust with a turbo tip. :whackit: I dont know what the SAFC is, i assume it is a piggy back fuel trimmer which in my opinion is dodgey, either do it properly (PowerFC) or dont do it at all.

Zoom (the magazine) No 61 (the one with the yellow rigoli accent on the front) Page 56

I would have thought a box would be best. because otherwise you are relying on the top of the bonnet to seal the top part of the partition. Benm as for gauges i only use the stock gauges with a small HKS boost gauge (came with the car) mounted under my head unit. I had thought of getting a pillar mount twin gauge type setup which would house my boost gauge and one of those autometer air fuel ratio meters. You will find that a humans are better at reading a gauge at a glance then reading a digital display using something like 7 segment readout. Jay95R33 do you have templates for your box?? If so could you email them to me at [email protected] Thanks

Here is that link again but in a working format http://pub126.ezboard.com/ffordsperformanc...picID=732.topic

I had looked at raising the bonnet but i didnt like that idea because it would mean the firewall would get drenched every storm we had. I know the engine bay is water proof to some extent but i dont like the idea of pouring bulk water over an area of the engine bay that wasnt designed for that. Note we get serious storms up here in the NT, the storm usually last 4 months and it is called the monsoon. Carbon fibre bonnet! to much of the ol' :whackit: Benm i may be a newbie to this forum but i have had my GTS25t for over 3 years and i am an Engineer (bought it when i finished my degree's). As such i crave all the knowledge i can manage about my car and i have had 3 years to do it. Anyway i stumbled across this forum by accident when looking at a link from skylinesdownunder. I am usually on the ford performance forum (nick = skyline) annoying everyone there. I took an XR6t for a test drive a while back and went on the above forum and gave it a rough review. It was hilarious to see how many people responded asking why nobody had criticised it before. Below is a link to my finest hour. http://64.4.22.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN...ncefalconsforum

Do this at your own peril. I installed the full set of urethane bushes along with a full set of bilsteins and i get nothing but grief from my girlfriend when we go anywhere in my car.

UAS has two boxes to encapsulate your pod. There is one made of fibreglass for $195 and for ultra wank :whackit: they have carbon fibre one aswell. Look in "parts and accessories " -> "Skylines" -> "Engine Clutch And Gearbox Components" http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/ OR You can just make your own turbo partition like they have on the above site aswell. I cant believe people dont know about this. I am thinking of setting up a web site with photos of the way i installed my front mount intercooler, pod filter, etc and the little things that go with it all like thermal wrapping the dump and partitioning the pod filter, how to pipe the intercooler, cold air feed, etc because not enough people are doing this. At the moment i am toying with the idea of installing some cosworth vents in the bonnet (facing backwards close to the back of the bonnet) because of the tremendous amount of heat trapped under the hood. The problem is of course making it so that water wont drip onto essential components under normal conditions. If anyone out there has suggestions for more subtle and as effective vents to stick in the hood i am all ears. Note anyone that tries to suggest something like mounting a subaru bonnet scoop will be hunted down and shot...... Again for the people who dont remember physics "HOT AIR RISES" and with no where for it to go under the hood it will simply soak into your engine ie "HEAT SOAK" as a result you may get pinging and your car wont perform as well because the intake charge is heated by every component of the engine before it reaches the combustion chamber

NismoR34 have a look at the link that Rev210 provided on the previouse page, it shows that there is a fairly high pressure drop due to the air box. In essence this means the turbo is sucking harder than if there was a pod filter, this also means that the ribbed condom between the AFM and the turbo will collapse because of the suction. Think about it, what happens when you get suction and a hot pipe hmmmm well it will collapse. In a nutshell you replace the air box with an easier flowing pod filter and there is less of a chance of the pipe collapsing. DJ_L3THAL seriously how can you ask that? Did anybody pay attention to physics back in highschool??? The hotter the air is the less dense it is!!!!!!!!!!!! ie drawing in hot air and compressing it will be less dense than cold air which is compressed. Ontop of that the higher the compressed intake air is the harder your intercooler will have to work because when you compress air you increase temperature!!!!! P x V / T = Constant P=pressure V=volume T=temperature As for getting done by the cops i have heard of a place down in NSW called GCG turbos. They can apparently high flow you standard turbo quite seriously and leave it looking stock from the outside!!!!

Al i totally agree. As i have said before what person driving a turbo doesnt love the sound of their hair dryer spooling up????

You should never drop the car too far, i think for a skyline 2inches is maximum. The reason for this is that your suspension geometry is designed around the standard ride height and any MAJOR deviation will mean your car doesnt handle aswell. Mine was previously lowered by the original owner by 2.5inches with a change of springs. I was always scrubbing out the tyres and in the end the rear shocks shat themselves. Since then i paid just under $2k for a full set of bilsteins on all 4 corners with height adjustment. Now it is lowered 1.5inches below standard and i can corner heaps harder than with the setup i bought it with originally.

As NismoR34 said Rev210 you are against pod filters so be it. The best thing to do is to get an absolute pressure gauge (ie it shows 101kPa when not connected to anything). You then drill this into the pipe between the turbo and the AFM, then measure the pressure drop when it hits max boost with the standard air box and the pod filter. I seriously do not doubt that a pod filter helps BUT the amount it helps by is debatable. Also if not properly partitioned from the rest of engine bay and with a good cold air feed then it could be worse than a standard air box...... NismoR34 it depends on what you want to pay, there are three options. 1) You can shove a slinky like spring in there that will stop the pipe from collapsing (ultra budget, but i have heard it has been done). 2) You can replace the pipe with a peice of silicon pipe like the expensive stuff on your radiator. This is easy to pipe but has the same problem as the ribbed pipe. 3) The best option is to go to some local bloke you know that welds aluminium/ stainless steel you bring him a peice of pipe and a doughnut (not the sort you eat, Homer) he should be able to weld up this so that you need two short peices of silicon pipe with clamps to attach the finished pipe to you turbo and the other end to your air filter. Up here where i live i could get this sort of thing done for less than $80.

Our fuel up here is at best PULP 98RON i think (103.9c/L). I get the best results with BP PULP and the worst with Woolworths Plus Petrol PULP. We dont get the same luxuries you guys down south get, shell optimax (droool). Low RON fuel plus high ambient temperature is not the best combination but we get by. I read yesterday they are going to charge people who drive dangerously ie to fast for the situation (in the no limits area) !!!! As for the speed cut i just installed an Apexi PowerFC!

I already discussed this in another thread. I have read in one of the performance mags that removing the mesh from the AFM gives a gain (they did a before and after dyno run showing this). One person in that thread complained about a bit of backfiring and as i stated the freeing up of the air flow may have some effect on the way the AFM measures. I think this is the case because in my apexi powerFC you actually need to tell it in one of the menus that it you have switched from a standard air box to a pod / low restriction device and i doubt that is just so that the user feels special. As for the Mines GTR i dont really care that they use an air box because i can see that the size of the orifice that the air box is drawing air through gets very small at one point (as it passes over the radiator) and i will have to check but i really dont think it is any where near the diameter of the pipe the AFM is at that point. Hmmmm Al it looks like you have been reading the mods section of skylinesdownunder.com aswell

Post a photo of it.

R31Nismoid out of interest how do you plan to access the maps on this chip??? Before buying my powerFC i looked at this sort of thing and steered away from it because there is no daughter board available with a PC interface for tuning the car. Going onto the make up of the new ECU's the problem or so i am told is that the R32 ecu had a processor chip and a separate ROM (read only memory). This meant that you could easily pull the ROM out, reburn one with new map and try it or even emulate the rom with a separate processor interfaced to a pc through a RS232 interface. NOW technology obviously progressed when you went from a R32 to R33 and the newer processors NOW come with BUILT in memory. In nissans case the Micro controller used i am guessing from a manufacturing point of view would have OTP (one time programmable) memory. This means that your ECU could no longer be chipped because it meant ripping out the processor aswell. In lamens terms the chip that was the brains of the car now also has the maps stored in it and they are burnt into it upon coming out of the chip manufacturers doors. As a result i am still VERY interested in how you are going to program this ECU without a special interface program to talk to the chip, a cable etc.

EnricoPalazzo i would really like to get hold of that template if you dont mind my email address is [email protected] Thanks I agree to some extent that it is induction noise that makes it go faster i mean which one of us DOESNT love to hear the sound of our respective turbo spooling up as you chop some looser in daddy's Gen3 V8 commodore?? But, at the same time there are advantages above the standard air box when using a pod filter if done properly. 1) Mount the pod filter to the air box (duh). 2) Build a partition around the pod filter (which i am hoping EnricoPalazzo will send me a template for) 3) Providing you have an aftermarket front mount intercooler then you should have one of the holes (where the original little intercooler was) free. Stick a piece of bell mouthed PVC pipe (both ends) into that hole. The advantage of doing this is that you now have a large hole drawing air into a pod filter instead of that small spatula sized snorkel which actually runs over the radiator (good for extra hot air). Another thing is that the ribbed pipe between the air flow meter and the turbo is no longer experiencing too much suction which can close it of. Yeah pretty dodgey i know but i have heard of that pipe closing up when the pipe is sufficiently hot and it has to work hard to suck the air in. For the non believers get hold of a manometer (piece of pipe with water in it). Use it to measure the pressure drop before and after you use a pod filter (between turbo and airflow meter). That would settle all this arguing

Re the surging that you are seeing, i think that it has something to do with the air flow meter measuring differently with a lower restriction input. I know that in my Apexi PowerFC you actually have to tell it if you are using the standard air box or a pod filter so it must affect the measured value in some way and with what i assume is a standard ECU in your car it could be a problem. Again this is only an opinion, talk to your mechanic and see what he says.

The article did a before and after dyno run showing there was an actual gain (i dont remember how much) in removing the mesh. Anyway you dont technically force more air in there you actually suck more air in there and the more tubulence (caused by something like a grate) the less flow you get!!!! Anyway as long as you are careful not to leave the filter off and the filter is internally clean when you bolt it in then it wont cause any problems.

I havent had a chance to read through all the previous pages but one minor thing i read in a mag that gives a gain is to pull the steel grate of the inlet to the air flow meter.

BTW Sim88 when am i going to get that plenum of you????