Fastrotor

Uh OH ... So whats replacing it then dangerman ? Shame to loose current known king of the autos. !

Show us your dyno chart, should be able to see the ramp rate then..... Try ramping it quicker, thats how we got past the big dip mine was doing originally . Gary

Thats the thing satanic, the previous hiflow (Rx-7 front cover with V-trim hi-flow 6blade, turbonetics center, VG30 rear with garrett To3 Stage 3 turbine wheel) made exact same power. Now new turbonetics BB with To3 stage 3 turbine wheel, and alot larger comp wheel with a large comp housing, surge slots and 4" inlet. (using same VG30 rear abeit with more meat taken out of slot area to increase flow) Also, exhaust had 7psi BP.... magic cat had collapsed somewhat, so removed and 3.2psi BP now, yet not a Kw more.... I did have the ramp rate set a bit below 10kph/sec to really work it to make sure i had no detonation, so that could affect the histall or auto..... for some reason when ramping slowly on original auto, it would dip hugely if ramped to slow at bottom end.... i just ran out of time on dyno to try a few things. Either way its abit confusing as to whats the cause. Anyway, i've got the HKS cast manifold on now, replaced the VG30 bored out housing with a full Turbonetics .63 housing to suit the Stage 3 To3 wheel , external 44mm Tial gate, 4" dump to 3" at cat. And still trying to fit in a full 4" piping to turbo. (intake) So we shall see what happens then. Also i have finally got onto a S/H R33 Auto computer to steal the connector off the PCB so i can solder it onto my circuit board and then i have full say to what it does. So that should also elliminate and weird things the auto omp could be doing too. Peter, not running stock BOV , got one of johns custom twin piston types. I doubt auto is slipping, at least by itself, not after a $3K + rebuild ! Auto comp could be playing silly buggers though.... Gary

Ok thanks for info. I'm just replumbing currently to suit turbo mounted on the hks cast manifold.... and was thinking of upgrading to 3"(currently about 4 meters of 2.5"!!) . However all the calcs ive done (using a huge spreadsheet ive made up) indicate airspeed below .3 mach still, so should be fine, its just nice to see some real world results to see whats possible. I am just in a desparate bid to solve the brick wall i've run into. New larger BB Turbonetics (using same vg30 bored out rear as original just bored out more) didnt make a skeric more than previous..... made 230 at 11psi, 250 at 16, and still 250 at 24 psi ! only slight drop to 22 over run says pipingprobably not restriction ... And although most say std cast manifold is brick wall at 300rwkw's , if it was you'd expect exhaust gas to drop off and hence boost to drop as revs rose and motor requested more... so dunno..... power was getting abit wavy up to so maybe valve float (dont rev above 7K) .... or auto playing silly buggers. Might lock up clutch in 3rd and do a run..... with and without locked..... will consult mike at MV first though. Anyway enough rambling on until i can come back with some real world results for ya. It looks like a lovley tractable curve you have there ! Well done, must be fun to drive !! Gary

You never did tell us what happened here Darren ? Gary

Ah ok, yes this makes sense then. I knew the R34 has the auto control logic built into the stock ECU , so the fcon can decipher the data output, thats cool. I was also tossing with this, to look at the data stream and figure out what its saying when its about to shift. This is still an option for those that don't want a full custom auto ecu replacemnet Im running the new Link G4 plugin , and the custom auto comp will send it info to switch in a full map ignition correction also, so hopefully will have as good of a result as you have achieved then. But yours is a great result, and finally a computer that can work with the auto signals ..... i always though the plug in comps from LINK and others should have sorted this out themselves already, but no. Look forward to the dyno sheets. What size cooler piping do you run ? Gary

So how did you go about shift compensation ? Without a separate signal from the auto comp that its about to shift, the computer just sees a rapid rpm reduction, with a possible small load increase, depending on how good/bad your wastegate controll is..... So if you were pulling timing to where it shifts back to, you just have a wavy timging line...... So keen to hear how you went about it .... Personally im just redesigning the RB25 auto computer ! Already got the PCB proto made and just populated it and writing some test software... already found a SNAFU with the layout, but was easily fixxed for the proto ! Gary

i was wondering when we were going to see your car satanic ! Thats some great numbers. Do you have a dyno sheet so i can see the curve ? You have the extra 500cc and the 26 head to aid low end responce no doubt over the 25. The flex plate problem seems to be R34 only doesnt it ? Gary

Hey AboBob, can you have a look at your brake master and see if it has the large hex 'nut' (bout an inch long) that the rear lines screw into, and it screw into the master cylinder. Pretty sure this is the rear bias valve. Wonder if the R34 has more rear bias, it might be possible to swap my R33 one for an R34 one to try out..... Also heard one of the silvias (poss S15) uses alot more and is able to swap into R33...... so little info out there. Gary

So did you accept my offer or did you want more ? Is your inbox still full ? (i havn't tried pm'ing again yet) Gary

I re-dynoed the car with the cat removed, and exhaust backpressure dropped to 3.2 psi (from 7psi), and still 250rwkw's..... not a change..... Also fitted up an adjustable nismo FPR so i can set a higher base to flow more thru injectors, and to also try to rule out the FPR on the fuel pressure being low. Pump is definately having problems. So i have a 255 lph walbro going in when i get time to do it soon. I got the shits and bit the bullet and removed all the turbo and manifold, and proceeded to fit up the HKS Cast manifold and i had john at turbo supplies whack on a new Turbonetics .63 A/R housing, using an external Tial 44mm wastegate. Unfortunatley due to the large size of the comp housing, the engine mount needed trimming, and also had to jack up motor on PS and unbolt mount to allow enough clearance to fit the turbo and manifold.....and of course all intake piping and exhaust needed refabricating.... so i just ran out of time to make the race meet i was aiming for.. it was fighting me all the way........ anyway, im aiming to have it all finished now for the Ch Towers 1/8 mile race meet in 2 weeks. So we can compare times Boost ON ! Im hoping the restriction was the std exhaust manifold. We shall see....... only other long shot is i left a rag in the piping last time it was off and it ended up in the cooler end tank !! Anyway i really hope to see the power curve shoot past the 250rwkw mark this time .... else i will cry like a baby i think !!!! You just need so much more mumbo in an auto to feel quick compared to a manual ! Gary

I tried but it said your inbox is full mate. $30 + $10 freight ? Gary

hey you never got back to me on the auto computer. Its under drivers side kick panel, real easy to get out. Gary

if you have no luck with your other things to try, and you have an adjustable boost controller, start winding the boost back off once it reaches peak HP. You wont make any more power of course, however because you are asking for less boost to be maintained, the wastegate will stay more open, this keeps the exhaust Backpressure down (assuming the turbine housing&wheel combo is at its max flow, which is possible with std) and therefore power will roll off alot less dramatically. So technically you gain power in the top end, but wont increase Max power at its peak. Gary (I've proven this many times on the dyno by the way, not just theorising)

What Cat did you use Spoolup ? And legal noise ? asin 90 db ? what muffs did you use !? Gary

It must just be the R33 having real weak rear bias Abo-bob.

Was it an Auto ? Gary

Hooked up a FP gague and went for a spin, and sure enough, running low on pressure. Strangley, base pressure is 48 psi, goes down to 42 at idle once vaccumm acts on reg.... anyway i get to 18 psi on street and so i should expect to see 68psi fuel, however it gets to 58 and stops dead. So its either the FP (Bosch 040 intank) , or possibly the FP Reg...... i was concerned seeing higher base than usual, and also how it stoped quite suddenly at 58 , rather than peter out...... So now i HAVE to check fuel return flow to tank, to tell me if its pump or the reg....No flow, and its new pump time, Flow, and its new FP Reg time ! Gary

Mafia, Whats your nismo part number for your intank ? 17042-RRS41 ? Nismo website lists this pump for R33 GTST, so does slide on this site. Now i went looking for info as i prefer to check all claims myself as a due diligence thing, and going by the nismo website themselves, there pump chart lists the GTST pump as 4.1 Lpm @ 3Kg/Cm ( 246Lph @ 42.7Psi) There GTR pumps are still only rated at 42.7psi , abeilt at your mentioned 276 Lph. So my questions to you are, what part number did you use, where did you get the high pressure rating you mention ( 70Psi) at there 276 lph flow ? Have you seen a flow curve for these pumps you can point me to ? Gary For reference :- http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...df/hf_fpump.pdf

Ah finally someone with an auto wrecking..... Mate i'm after the Automatic computer............. Its the metal box directly behind the drivers side kick panel. Don't care if its had water, so long as the connector on it is ok (just need the connector for custom Circuit board) Freight to 4814 Gary

Just an update, i finally got the car onto the dyno and had a play. Unfortunately i could only screw 250 RWKW's (20psi........ 230rwkw at 11psi!!) out of it, so i knew something was up. Measured backpressure at the O2 sensor hole and did a run and it got to 7psi !! So i think the magiccat is toast, possibly the resonator also, as its an old fujitsubo one... and i pulled the rear muff years ago as it died. So its full exhaust upgrade time.... probably going to go custom and make it myself using SMB stuff, with twin mufflers and probably a metal cat ........ (but for now i'll use another magiccat, as i have a new one sitting here for a couple of years that needs using. Will dyno without exhaust to see what best possible power will be to baseline exhaust restriction when back on. Also, this was more an excersice to see what duty the injectors got to, as i know they were very high, but i could'nt remember exact .... and sure enough the 550cc's are at 100% just after 6000 rpm. But to add insult to injury, when i got home the normally quiet intank 040 was noisy as hell..... ahhhh........ so now need to whack in a FP gague and take it for a spin.... i should have hooked up the fuelflow on dyno , but since it was after 5pm when i got on i didnt bother. Also really need to modify the factory airbox snorkel, as its fine on dyno, but does drop abit on the street..... once the bonnets down. Will update again soon. i have sold 550's and the GTST LINK ECU. Going to put in a new G4 LINK plug in... realllly nioce bit of gear. Plus 740cc............... and possibly a new FP ! Update again soon hopefully. ! Anyone else had any progress ? Gary

Yeah i think thats my best bet to try to replace that valve with something adjustable to find the best bias that works..... very sparse info out there on this sbuject (re R33's )... Gary

I believe i have the same problem. I discovered that i could stall up more on the h-brake than the foot brake ! To me thats crazy... (auto sedan) EBC reds front and EBC Greens rear. I just this weekend, machined rotors, resurfaced pads and bled the lines, and there still weak. Rear pistons can be slid in with your hand so there not seized in any way...... Reds were 3/4 gone, and the greens looked almost new from the track days. My concern is i need them to bite from cold, stationary so i can stall up properly for the drags.. The only thing i have left to consider is either pad type or rear bias valve .... looks to be the large hex nut extension on the master, that the rear lines screw into, Anyone EVER have dramas with this valve ? Gary

The LINK is a fantastic choice, and as far as the auto goes, you will be fine. Obviously a shift kit is reccommended as well as extra/bigger trans oil cooler. The factory computer does communicate with the auto ecu (behind the DS kick panel), and does pull timing on shift. So its not quite as soft on shifts, but other than that, its not really a problem. I've had 260 rwkws for over a year on a 130,000 K box, and i race the car in bitumen sprints, so its not just a drag at a time either, and it was fine. Notice how all the opinions about it not working or being bad are from people who don't have one... I am in the process of redesigning the auto ecu, i have a working prototype pcb that replaces directly the auto ecu board , just by desoldering the factory connector and placing it onto the new pcb. Once this is done, if you run an aftermarket ecu, you then wire an input to one of the communications lines from the auto, and when earthed, the ecu pulls timing out.... that way you get your softer shifts. Obviously a good comp with lots of options and spare inputs is necessary.... link is perfect. Oh and while here, anyone have any spare auto ecu's in cars round the place ? I need to get a spare connector. ! Gary

Hey mate, just curious, at what rwkw (and on what type of dyno) did you find the 550's maxed out ? Any drag mph times also? Just trying to figure out how far they will go. mine were almost maxxed at 260rwkw, yet i see so many on here doing that easy on 550's..... but my results were on a mainline dyno, and more importantly i have a high stall auto, and this affects output on dyno alot..... of course works well in practise though. Gary