Fastrotor

The link is a really great bit of gear, especially the new G3's. I have tuned alot of them and from a tuners point of view , i find them alot easier than alot of the others, with a ton of options etc. good choice. But since your not up in Townsville Dyno Performance U2/ 7 Geonic Crt, Underwood, Brisbane, QLD 4119 Tel +61 +7-3290 5555 Motsons Turbo Centre 803 Beaudesert Rd, Coopers Plains, Brisbane, QLD 4108 Tel: +61 +7-3277 7766, Fax +61 +7-3216 6466 [email protected] Murnane Motors Unit 4, 11 Ramly Drive, Burleigh Heads, QLD 4220 Tel: +61 +7-5535 7411, Fax +61 +7-5576 4424 [email protected],[email protected] Suzisport 10 Hayward St, Stafford, Brisbane, QLD 4053 Tel: +61 +7-3856 0077, Fax: +61 +7-3356 0611 [email protected] Gary

Where are you measuring the BP ? At the turbo flange or at the head ? I'd check at both ends to gague the drop across the manifold runners to determine if there undersize. Having large BP with a big overlap cam is not great... you'd probably find putting in a smaller cam without changing anything else would gain power. But thats not what your after obviously. Have you also measure pressure drop across intercooler and piping ? Does the Head flow enough for the required power output ? Are the airfilters on the turbos big enough ..... have you measured the intake vacuum ? For best results you really dont want more than 10" of water vacuum between filter and turbo. (assuming you run them) Did the power increase a decent amount when you changed A/R ratios and the BP dropped to 2.6 ? (assuming same boost) ? If so , maybe the A/R's are still just to small and at the limit of the power your making currently ? Anyway some food for though. Sounds like a monster either way, do you have some photos to share with us ? Gary

Ok, i've got a S1 33 auto sedan, and the steering wheel is getting ratty. Instead of looking for another S/H one that may do the same thing in a short time, i was considering putting on a new one (or S/H one from a much newer car) . Now im not a drifter etc so i dont want the usual spindly wheel with a boss kit etc. Has anyone fitted a wheel from another later model nissan ??? I'd love to get one with radio and cruise control buttons........ i'll sort out the interface needed to make it work later. Just thought id pose the question to see if anyone had attempted such a swap.... I'll search round for some pics of what i'd like...... Gary

Mafia, whats happening with palmyra ? Any updates on the rebuild of the track ? Photos anywhere you've seen ? Shame, it was a great little track. I'd love to come down and give you a run one day out there. See if my Auto sedan can cut it against your beast. ! Gary

Yes true. I always find out the new price before i go to a wrecker.... im ofter amazed what they ask. usually bad !

Oh by the way .. probably should start a new thread to help those searching ..... but on the subject of bonnett support rubbers, the ones that screw into the front radiator support, i just tried a N15 pulsar ones tonight and they fit perfect.... so probably easier asking nissan for one of those then chasing an import number, assuming they wern't already clued up. Gary

Yeah i was looking at adapting the r33 GTR snorkel onto the gtst box as its bigger..... would be nice if there was an off the shelf one available though... something to retain a factory look. Gary

Using a line lock on the fronts is great when your trying to pull a skid to warm tyres.............. its useless when trying to stall up against the converter..... you need to lock the rear wheels .. its fine, i'll figure it out when i get back to looking at it. I'll post the results for posterity when someone else is looking possibly later on. Gary

Yes sorry its an S1 R33 Sedan. Yes well aware the hbrake is drum. Hence i find it strange that its got about 3 times more holding power that the disc brakes, and hence my problem and why i was checking to see if someone else had come across similar. Gary

Hi Guys, Ok, this is to the Auto guys, although just as applicable to the manuals as well. I had the rear in the air the other day so i could spin up the tyres while i was gathering data scoping inputs to the auto computer, and i noticed to my horror that i could stall up on the handbrake alone about 3 times more than just using the brake pedal !! I mainly sprint race the car, it doesnt get driven on the road alot these days , so it sits a month at a time between rounds. The car has slotted dba rotors, machined with EBC reds front and Greens on rear bout a year ago. I've had no obvious dramas while racing with the brakes. The only thing i did notice is that when over doing the drags for a run, i simply couldn't get it to stall as good as i used to, even with the new 3500 converter ! (over the previous 2800). Any one had a similar problem with this ? Im guessing either air in the line or a seized caliper possibly. Possible pad contamination long shot. I'll be ripping the wheels off tomorrow for a better look , just thought id post up to see if someone has seen similar, and once i fix it , its info for someone further down the track. Gary

Just for posterity sake, i fixxed this problem by increasing the caliper shims to move it ever so slighly, as you could tell it wasnt 100% centered. About half a millimeter shim. Basically removed stock ones and had some shim washers about twice as thick. All good and no more rubbing or noise. Gary

Ok, so forget welding onto the stock manifold or a china one, the factory one has a good heatshield and you wont get hassled over it too. What about making a turbo spacer big enough to fit a small external to it... ? Positioned correctly you could hang it underneath and blend it back into exhaust with a small flex pipe and flange.. ? I think it was Japanese Motorsport, or whoever HPI were in cohoots with at the time who did this with an rb20 or something ?! Or its also possible to weld onto the turbine housing... just make sure you get a specialist to do it. .... I am going to go the extension if i continue to have probs with the new larger hiflow as it already had a 10mm spacer to get comp cover to clear manifold ... also just need to extend turbine heat shield cover outwards also.

Yes, running as stock, on outside, just with an apexi panel filter fitted. (Nice dry type not oiled!) factory snorkel etc .... just bonnet popped up on pass side 5mm odd. Oh and as someone mentioned above you do have to make a new intake to the turbo from the box, as stock one will cave in on itself Have ran a 12.3@ 113mph , 1.9 60' . like this and it was far from being a perfect run Car is Auto sedan too. So maybe you should just try putting some rubber temporarily over the stock bonnet rubber for a try first,? especially if you have less or similar power levels. Ps , Dont forget to zip tie down the scoop if you dont have the factory bungs in place, as it might suck itself up to the bonnet ! (i can do a pic if you don't know what im getting at here) Gary

I have 260 rwkw's on a dynolog and snorkel on/off only 1 odd kw difference ....... WITH BONNET UP....... also boost held up well , only dropping 1psi 18-17 However on street with bonnet down i was flat out getting to 16 and dropped to 12........ But bonnet rubbers were worn and bonnet was about 5mm below guard level..... so i bolstered it up to 5mm above temporarily (only over a year now haha) and it was alot better...... yet to try difference on dyno with it down.. About to retune with new turbo and auto so i'll try it out then, as i too am going to do an extra breathing mod that looks good/factory/stealth etc .....

Haha that was a cool vid, certainly moves ! and 118 sounds more like it ! Good luck with the new combo.... commiserations to the wallet. Gary

Boosted, is that the Zoom car ? 5 speed auto sounds familar and not common.... Damn good time, sure to surprise. Gary

Yeah its been a while. Unfortunately i did have to buy it .... twice actually .... so it cost me $800 !!! for the housing ! Someone on here gipped me with a plain bearing shitter that didnt fit, and so had to go buy another one, correct the second time luckily. The box was lasting fine with 260 as i had a extra DC oil cooler inline with std, and MV shift kit. However it was already a 130,000 box. It was just a tad soft on changes into top. The highflow bearings dies and the wheel was hitting the housing.... all i got back was front and rear housings... killed new to3 wheel and Turbonetics housing ..all only 14 months old.... i was abit upset. Yes my boost is hard to get right ... well i can get it to go to 18 psi , however it then wants to overshoot in the quicker revving lower gears. Really need external gate.... but i prefer it to look totally stock. So have to work out how to hide one. Dangerman, yeah i have got to 260 too, was wondering if anyone had got to 300 odd ? Oh just for interest, when speaking to Mike at MV , i told him i was making my own auto controller and we got talking about lock up converter etc .... as with a 3500 now, its a pain, nay impossible to get to the low areas of the map on the dyno. So i said is it ok to lock up the converter down low, so it tunes like a manual effectivly. He said no probs, also said that i should try locking up the converter once it clicks into top gear at drags , says some of there cars have gained up to 10 mph !! I was shocked as i did not expect the lockup clutch to hold much more than 50 kws or there about. So something to definately try , along with the launch control to . Gary

Hey Guys , anyone got any new updates ? I ended up hurting the auto (so i though, made noise as you load it up etc during a circuit sprint) , but it turned out to actually be the bloddy hiflow turbo..... of course i figured that one out AFTER i spent over 3K getting Mike doing the toughen up on the auto. Went up to a 3500 stall too. box wasn't to far before it was toast anyway. Then spent 2.5K on a custom Turbonetics BB to fit into the vg30 rear housing. Its been 3 months and i've been so busy i haven't had a chance to retune it to suit new turbo..... so thats on its way.... hope to get over the 260 rwkw we made previously. Will let you know how i go soon. Any of the couple of guys on here at the top had experience with how much you can flow thru a vg30 housing ? and or the std log manifold... anyone had one extrude honed/power ported ? Gary

SO would i be right in assuming they will actually fit a series 1, mechanically etc ( what about VCT ?) But its the CAS that doesnt fit ?? So if i got a late model CAS, it would work ? (yes yes i realise about the comp not compat with different cas.. dont worry about that ...can sort that) Gary

Looking to find a center cap for a LM GT2 Looks like this http://www.street-solutions.com/_images/trash/cap1.jpg Thanks Gary

Mark, how's $350 + Freight sound ? Gary.

When i fitted the 3000 stall from mike in my 33 4door my mph dropped 5 !! But et's dropped .7 ! When are you going to run the car ? Anxiously waiting for results

Very nice mate ! Are you ever going to have a play with it on the strip ? Would be cool to see what mph it pulls ! What afr's it running top end ?

I've done this about 5 years ago when i put a NICS rb20 into my R31 skyline. I had the turbo off my S4 rx-7 rebuilt std, and used that. I had a flange made out of 12mm steel and welded onto the manifold, then i ported it out to make a smooth transition to the turbo flange. The power doesnt come on hard till about 4500 rpm, but after that is went very well. Please note, the S5 turbine housing is actually the smaller AR of the two. It also has the much better wastegate , with its twin flap design. SO if you were going to try it, use the S5 (if you need to know how to identify them, let me know) I spent quite abit of time manually messing with the R31's computer and i got the timing and fuel pretty decent on it . I sold the car off and after 5-6 owners and flogging, it was removed and is now in a Bluebird wagon , of all things. New owner whacked on an aftermarjet ECU and tuned it with somemore boost and its run a low 12 sec ET ..... Still all stock internal etc .. food for thought. I guess if you had one already in good nic, it could save you some dosh, but as the other guys have stated, there are alot better suited turbos out there that just bolt on. Gary

When you say "plugged' im assuming you mean just removing the boost hose to it ?? If so, it needs the boost fed to the top to offset the boost inside the pipe pushing on the valve. these two counteract each other, and then your left with just spring pressure effectively holding it closed. ie boost in pipe pushing on one side..... boost pressure + spring pressure resisting opening on other Without it , obviously all the boost in the pipe has to do is overcome the spring pressure and it starts bleeding pressure off. And there goes your power. For interest sake, i have had car on dyno boosting it to 18psi while another guy held hand over bov and no leak at all for me... (R33 S1) Gary