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Fastrotor

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Everything posted by Fastrotor

  1. How much did they charge you Bunta ? I just got them to sell me a set, but thru our local tyrepower up here , as they wouldn't do retail direct. 235/45/17 $310 255/40/17 $360 Of course i would have had a freight charge included in that too... Just curious to see the difference. Gary
  2. S1 R33 4door Auto 12.3 @ 113mph 1.9 60' Hiflow, 550cc nismo,splitfire coils, 3" exhaust, stock airbox and apexi filter. shift kit and 2800rpm converter. Gary
  3. Wow, old thread.... im sure theres alot more quicker Autos running around now ??? I've got my S1 R33 4Door auto down to 12.3 @ 113 mph 245 rwkw's Gary
  4. I agree with 2rismo .. seen it many times over lots of different cars for eg My S1 R33 Auto 4door Sat night just gone , ran these numbers. 12.850 @ 113.63 2.263 60' Then ran a 12.366 @ 113.35 1.938 60' Gary
  5. S1 R33 GTST Stock cams , custom hiflow by Turbosupplies. 263 rwkw on a dynolog dyno Gary
  6. I could only get 2000 rpm out of the stock one with street tyres, and would not make boost
  7. Thanks Guys, yeah im stoked with it, and there are still a few simple cheap things yet to do before i have to go to cams etc . The 550cc injectors are at max too. But i do run it rich at 11:1 for now to keep exhaust temps reasonable. The tyres i use are MickeyThompson ET street drag radials. 235/60/15 Yeah , waiting to see how you go Lukits01. Yeah waiting to see how you like it warren ! Alot better performance wise than std for sure. The torque converter doesnt add any power at all, it just allows the motor to get more into the power band and start making boost so that aids launch tremendously. The FMIC, made a HUGE difference, but of course i was already well above stock power.... Still over 200rwkw out of the R34 SMIC aint bad either. The best thing with the FMIC is i can stall up longer on the line without frying it, unlike the SMIC. The heatsinking is far greater. Im designing a water injection setup for it , so that will aide alot. Gary
  8. Ok , sorted out the boost drop off.... My bonnet rubbers at each front corner are worn and the bonnet sits about 5 mm under the guard line.... fixxed this by temporarily putting some rubber strips there , now its about 5mm above..... so that simple 10mm gain removed the inlet restriction into the snorkel. Went out to the drags tonight to try it all out. Stalling up as best as i could i got down to a 1.9 60' !!!!! Got a best et of 12.3 @ 113 mph !!! Certainly reached my goal of 12's out of the daily now ... hard not to aim for 11's . Although i can feel the auto showing signs of not liking it too much.... need to make a circuit up to pull timing on gearshift, as its abit harsh on the box currently without any like the factory does. Gary
  9. Arrived today after the usual 1 week postage with aussie post to get up here Thanks
  10. Fitted the FMIC and DC trans cooler (in series with factory one ) last week and finally got it onto the dyno today to play with the tune abit up top . Straight up it made 242 rwkw's . Then with some tweaking it made 250 on std 98. Upped the boost a tad and got 263 rwkw's On dyno boost goes to 18 and slowly drops to 17 .... However on the street it goes to 16 and falls to 12 once into second gear.... not sure why yet. Going to increase the wastegates seat pressure incase its not being able to close (you can see the links boost control go to 0% trying to shut the gate and raise boost) Updated dyno progression graph below.
  11. Hi, i have a R33 4door. I have mikes shift kit, and recently installed a 2800 converter as well. The shift harshness varies with your right foot, so its not always hard. But boy does it make the tyres work when it does shift.... As for the new converter, its pretty good. You notice it a little more in street driving conditions, but not too much. And the lockup still works a treat. On the strip, (assuming you have good enough tyres to stall onto without spinning ), i was getting 7-9 psi with a quick stall at light throttle (since only got side mount cooler at that stage) . Unfortunately, the 60' timers wernt working on the night i went out. but ET dropped from a 13.8 to a 13.2 However MPH dropped 4 mph Not sure if this was converter, or due to the fact sitting on the line with boost fried the SMIC sooner and it lost top end...... Gary
  12. During racing at the bitumen Sprints, im noticing the rotors copping alot of wear from rubbing on the caliper (i assume). You can hear it when turning on the warm down (ie everything real hot) and the cars just cruising along so quiet. Once there cool you don't hear it when going out for the next round. The wear is only on the rotor outer edge on the drivers side, and it was only there on the passenger side in the first round, but after last weekends event, its wore a good 15mm in from the edge and about 1/2 mm deep ! So i have to fix it before next round . I assume this is wheel bearings ? When cold, there doesnt seem to be any play in the wheel when jacked up to test. I havent had the caps off to check the bearing preload yet. Anyone has this problem in a R33 GTST Mspec ? Got pics if needed Gary
  13. Went to the 1/4 drags tonight ... and couldn't believe it , the 60' timers wernt working ...sheezz.. Anyway the converter sure works better..... can leave line with 7-9 psi odd on board... alot better than 0 ! Certainly felt quicker.. Got a Best ET of 13.2 @ 105.7 Thats .6 of a second better in the ET. The MPH has dropped, but i assume thats from heatsoaking the SMIC even more when stalled on boost as well as the burnout.. The changes felt a tad softer too, so perhaps with the extra torque multiplication its abit much for the stock (old) clutches in the tranny......
  14. Well got the box all in tonight without too much drama (always remember to sand the paint back off the converter spigot where it goes into the crank !!) And one leaking copper washer ( even after annealing it ! ) ... all was good. Unfortunately its raining tonight, so couldn't test it properly..... but coming up to a set of lights i kept into it and on the brake and it flared to 2800 and was on 7 psi ..... so looks like it will work well.... Gary
  15. On the seal thing, if anyone gets stuff from Mike, just get him to send all new seals with the gear , alot easier than trying to find them locally .... certainly up here anyway ! Gary
  16. It actuallt cost me $500 Lukits01 .... Have to ring mike and see if there was a refund on return of old converter in that price. Freight from here is usually not worth bothering for the refund, but hey its the right thing to do to help others out waiting for one spare ! The box is out currently, as as long as the main converter seal turns up today, converter will be in tonight ! Exciting, i'll keep you posted. Gary
  17. Hi Tim, yeah well it's understandable they don't want it . Crowds love it of course.. Yes it certainly was a fast car. One of many i think ! Also this was the event just after the gtr had the off on the cool down lap, and took a gouge out of the bitumen... so they were really cranky. Gary
  18. I was at the comp that guy was talking about, and noticed that the DD's air probe was hanging on the side of the cabinet for all the runs i saw. I should come down to Mackay and have a run with you on palmyra Mafia ! Gary
  19. I've got KH2 K on my plate The KH2 is gunmetal grey, (which i figured looking at paint) .. But does the extra "K" two spaces after it on same line mean anything extra ??? Thanks for help Gary
  20. Although there website's main index.htm page is damaged/missing , i found my way in and saw this notice ... Quote:- The Track is approximately 960 meters long with two 45 degree right hand turns, several chicanes and then into a right hand hairpin turn leading onto the main straight. This will be a Race Track and not a Drag Strip !! No Drifting allowed !!!! " End Quote See no drifting comment
  21. Not surprised, most sprint organisers don't like it when people drift... to much chance of wrecking stuff ! Alot of the guys at the Townsville one were starting to do it , and we just got a big chat too last meeting. As ours is run on the Townsville Kart Track... the kart track owners were getting annoyed with it. That black GTR was at the first local hillclimb this year .... was quite a weapon for sure..... and he now holds the track record by 3 seconds ! Gary
  22. does it take forever even on light loads ? Does it immediately start slowly bringing the revs down, or just totally do nothing for 5 secs after you select , then shift quickly Gary
  23. How much power are you aiming for / have ?? Im running a stock box and have 227 rwkw on a Dynolog Dyno The other option is if you have a FMIC and run the horrid over the radiator piping, then just get yourself an R33 GTR airbox.... flow more than enough and bolts in.... you just need to mod the outlets to suit 1 AFM..... a good time to replace the squishy intake duct.. Gary
  24. I only just spoke to him at 5pm my time today, but from last convo i had with him a few weeks back when he didn't have a spare in stock, it was about $350 odd... plus freight. Exchange of course. A deposit would also be required until you send old converter back to him too. It will be one of his 'street' converters.... aparently 2800-3000 stall. Alot better than the 2000 i can get now for sure.... also retains the lock up clutch so crusing will be no different. Gary
  25. I ended up getting a genuine Hybrid GT cooler (after much searching for a genuine distributor, wayyy to many fakes around!) Decided i didn't want to spend over twice as much for the arc, plus the ensuing wait from Japan. Didn't buy the piping kit as i detest the over the radiator method, and also cutting holes in my car ! Will plumb it up myself. (yet to see the nightmare i could have let myself in for) Also just spoke to Mike at MV few minutes ago and he's finally got a spare converter out of a R31 he can mod and send up for me to swap over, as i didnt want to pull mine out and then wait to refit. Exciting ! I'll try to have it all in by the end of month, before next circuit sprints. Gary
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