Fastrotor

Would you do a special on the 600 core only ? Gary

Put me down for the second GB SI R33 GTST Gary

Yeah its in Newton Meters, and as Gary has pointed out , its rear wheel torque, not motor torque. Yes i think the cooler will help immensly.... Does anyone reading this know if the ARC coolers are able to fit without cutting the reinforcement bar whatsoever ..?? I just like my insurance thats all. Gary

I hope Lukits01 doesnt mind, but i though i'd add my mods and progress to his thread to keep it all in one spot... just let me know if you want me to start a new one mate. My car is a SI R33 4 door Auto. 128,000 kms M-spec I've attached a graph of combined dyno runs i've done as i changed things, all on same dyno, all tuned by me. The BLACK line is as i recieved it ... (on this dyno std r33 autos are about 115 rwkw) , this had a Fujitsuboto "jasma" spec cat back and a 3" full dump fitted and a pod filter. So it had abit more that a stocker. The GREEN line is LINK plug in computer, converted to MAP sensor, Splitfire coils. Boost was 11psi rolling back to 9 psi from midrange onwards ( Using the links boost controller to roll it off, as trying to maintain 11 psi actually closed the wastegate sooner and power dropped off... by asking it to do lower boost the gate stays open and power stay higher for longer) , R34 GTT SMIC upgrade. ran a 14.3 @ 98MPH 2.95 60' ! The PINK line is Hiflow turbo (VG30 rear housing, new turbonetics center, Garrett Stage 3 To3 Turbine wheel, Rx-7 front cover with a V-trim hiflow wheel (6 blades not 8 like the V1/V2 has) , 550cc Nismo injectors, MV Automatics Shift kit, FACTORY Airbox fitted, with Apexi filter. Bosch 040 intank fitted. Power was abit lower than i expected, even limited by the cooler size, so i checked the exhaust back pressure, and to my horror saw 11 psi BP on 12 psi boost. !! Ran a 14.5 @ 102.7mph 2.5 60' (with MT ET Street tyres, but note it was raining .... they had 20 cars running over track to dry it out abit !!!! ) The RED , YELLOW & BLUE lines. Just removed rear muffler, and welded on a temp cannon cheapie (2 new SMB's on the way soon) .. Got to 207 rwkw doing constant ramp runs with changes etc .... , then let it cool and did the final run in BLUE.... So fair indication a front mount cooler would help lots to keep the power constantly around the blue range, would dare say it would be back the the red area 1/2 way into a drag run. With heat soak. Just ran tonight , finally got a 13. Ran 13.831 @ 109.75 MPH 2.59 60' I just cant get it off the line.... tried all different styles 60' was very consistent between 2.59 to 2.68. I guess the cooler and cams help yours out alot Lukits ? (edit, got a genuine hybrid) Also called Mike at MV Autos to look into a 2800-3000 rpm Street stall converter (retains lockup too!) .. that will help immensely i would imagine ! Still the good thing about it is you lift the bonnet, and it looks totally stock... full heatshields etc Gary

One other thing though Gary, what about the lock up clutch in the converter.... i was going to see how high Mike could make one and still keep the lock up part, so cruise and highway didnt suffer with excess slip. I really need one to help with the sprint racing. Gary

Thanks Gary for the info. I'll give it a try for the next round on the 3rd June. Let you know then. Gary

Its from the Mt Stuart Hillclimb in Townsville. Yeah the tyres are a pain, and alot of the cars come down with scuff marks on them.. But there to slow people down abit as its a long way down over the edge ! The council re-sealed the road in Asphalt last year so its real smooth and grippy now, unlike years previous when it was loose bitumen ! Noone could run race tyres as it chewed them to shreads , now its great.

The EBC greens work quite well and the dust is low, great for street pads for sure. I use reds on the front and greens on the rear. Reds dont dust too bad either. work well enough for me using them in bitumen sprints. Bite well from cold too. Gary

Back on topic, I raced the car last weekend at the bitumen sprint. I was pretty happy for a first outing , placing 19th out of 43 cars. Driving with the auto is a pain...needs a big stall... im working on a custom controller for the next meet so i can select the gear i want via paddles/switches on the wheel. Also need good tyres.... The car felt pretty good, handling wise.... if anything there was abit of understeer. I wasn't pushing it super hard, since everything was untested and new, brakes included .So i guess i should up the rear swaybar one notch for next round. What i wanted to know , is how do you know when the understeer problem is just simply tyres , and can you go to far adjusting the bars to compensate for this ? Thanks Gary

Thanks mate. Yeah i enjoy taking pics as much as racing so it was a good day none the less. Camera was a Canon EOS20D with a 70-200 F4L USM lense. Shutter speed 1/500 . Would like it abit higher , but only being the F4 lense and a cloudy day, it had to do. If you want to know all the details , just save the pic to your HD, and then look at the properties, advanced ... its all in there. Gary

Thanks guys. Unfortunately i didn't make it due to a CAMS licence issue. Probably a good thing as i only finished dyno tuning it on the friday arvo, and entry had closed on Thursday ! But i was hopeful... nevermind, next one isnt far off. Car had a major issue with backpressure anyway, i'll have to make myself a new cat back before next Sunday as thats the Bitumen Sprints race ! running 12psi boost, there was 11 psi BP at the top end !!!! No wonder it only made 185rwkw's ! (Mainline Dynolog, so about 210 rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics) Will redyno it once its changed. Oh, the chock is under the front wheels too. Since i couldn't race i took pics for 5 hours ! I've put some better ones below. We had a R32 GTR reset the best record this event ! Gary 350Z TURBO ! SOME DIDNT MAKE IT THRU THE TYRES UNSCATHED !!! Guess the 4WD works

Thanks for the info Gary. I'll play it by ear and change the bushes to suit for the next round based on what it does this time. Yes it does start on an incline ..... not so bad for me though, im auto ! The start guy holds a wedge under the front tyre so the manual guys dont have to be on the brake before running . Thanks Gary

Gary if your saying this here , how come on the R33 gtst group buy in the settings for the bushes you say "max anti squat" ? Im getting the car aligned finally tomorrow (i bought the full kit). Hill climb is on sunday so i need to know if i should swap the bushes back to neutral... ? Also while im going, with the adjustable bars .... what conditions warrant what changes ? ie if its tail happy, or understeering etc which bar to change to help condition ? Thanks Gary

Mine just arrived today, well packed, thanks Alex.

Yeah put me down for one please. Gary.

Good to hear it all worked out well for you mate. Depends on what dyno Unique use, but there is always a difference even between same brands, sometimes its slight, sometimes large... depends on how often they get them calibrated. If your comparing between a Mainline Dynolog Dyno to a Dyno Dynamics type (most common) then yes, the dynolog reads about 15% lower. But as you've discovered, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Well theres no saying that there not atomizing properly, yours might be fine. Also, the ones im referring to were pretty good, it was only a very minor low speed accel pump prob that we noticed the prob in the real world........ other than that the dyno is where it showed the dramatic difference in duty cycle. Leading me to conclude they were not atomizing properly. Gary

Haha, thats ok, i know what you mean. Im doing up the house currently, and ontop of the skyline i also own an rx-7 ! Both worked alot ! Gary

Glad to hear it all works ok mate. You could also look into a plug in computer that does boost control.... save spending money on both ! I use a link, and it allows you to program what boost you want at what revs. This is great and once setup, works great. I run 11psi on mine and at about 6000 rpm + i roll the boost off to 9psi.... i did this as on the dyno it would nose over in power...... so regulating to a lower boost keeps the wastegate open instead of closing and trying to mantain a boost level thru a small housing...... thereby extending your power curve due to keeping the turbo to motor backpressure lower.. So instead of dropping power at 6500 rpm i lowered boost and it maintained power to 8000 rpm ! Some helpful hints hopefully Gary

That looks correct. From the aluminium piping it goes thru the T piece to the turbo actuator. The T'd off pipe goes into the solenoid (as you have it) and then the other side of the solenoid goes to the intake pipe (ie it bleeds off pressure that the actuator see's. Not sure if its std piping from alu pipe, but note that you need to have the restrictor inline between the T piece and alu piping.... else it wont work. Gary

Hiflowing an injector is easy. Sure it flows the correct amount for its new size, but the trick is to make sure its atomizing correctly. What happens if it isnt atomizing correctly is that the unatomized fuel wont burn properly and you end up having to open up you newly hiflowed injectors even more to obtain the correct afr your after. This obviously negates the effect of going bigger in the first place. And you find yourself back to square one running out of injector..... and scratching your head to boot. I've personally seen an SR motor running 100% duty on some 550cc hiflow std injectors, and same motor with 550cc proper ones at 70%..... On flow bench, both injectors flowed same amount...... but of course the hiflowed ones were atomizing badly. Another thing is low speed accel pump tuning, it will make this difficult to get perfect if there not atomizing properly, as airspeed is very low. Hope it helps. Gary

If an internal gate turbo wont hold boost , with a reg, its usually the flap being blown open by the turbo to motor backpressure. and a higher spring pressure is needed in the actuator. Gary

So am i to assume your running a std comp ? If so, why are you even asking this question..... Adding a totally different turbo changes your engines power curve quite alot..... you need to tune accordingly..... with a stock comp still in place.... sheezzz..... its still injecting similar fuel thinking its got the stock turbo..... do yourself a favour and get a programable comp and get a tune. If your lucky, it will be before you destroy your motor. Gary

all depends on what options you add to it, but your looking at $200k + for a 4wd dynolog with options as above .... now you know why it costs so much !! alot of dollars to re coup ! Gary

I work with and do alot of tuning on a Dynolog dyno, and can verify that it is quite common to see 15%+ going from ours to a Dyno Dynamics dyno in shootout mode. Its the norm to add at a min 10% to our results to compare with others on DD dynos... but 15% is more common. The Dyno log dyno's are a nice bit of gear, with the oil temp loggers, air temp, 3 map sensors, 8 egt sensors, and the fuel flow meters. you can diagnose most problems presented to you. Its quite common to see quite large figures quoted in the magazine's, and one cant help but be impressed, however when you see the MPH, if posted, its usually alot lower than expected, an indicitave of not such an impressive number. At least relative to what im used to seeing on a dynolog dyno. Anyway, in summary of my ramble, for you guys who use dynologs, add about 15% to your value and your in ballpark dyno dynamics teritory. Gary

Just Another big thanks to Gary for the group buy. I finally got a RDO free to myself to work on my car and not others for a change so i got the car on a hoist all day and started the task of swapping it all over. There was nothing overly hard, just afair bit of it to do. But got it all done by late this arvo. Its due for an alignment next week. First impression was , firmer but smoother, if that makes sense.... like i can feel more of the road bumps, but its nowhere near as harsh when they do hit... shocks obviously doing there job ! Height was spot on .... i was 330 mm front and 340 rear initially, now its a perfect 350mm all round. Car goes round corners heaps better..... only had a limited test on the quick drive home, as i was totally knackered from the day. Will test more on weekend. Still amazingly better than std. Found out my springs were RS*R brand too.... so i'll sell them off as they wernt too bad in comparison.... std shocks however found the bin ! Thanks Gary, once again for all the effort. Our sprint series starts up again soon so i'll let you know how the car goes relative to track records etc . Gary