Fastrotor

Yeah but as i mentioned power didnt drop off as much when i rolled the boost back... i tried alot of things but there just wasnt any more in it... 60' 's best was 2.4 One thing i really notice is that you floor it, boost builds to 11 psi buy mid 2000's but there is nothing until just on 3000 , then whoosh , its off.... I tried moving the cam on point in the link, to above and below 3000, below does nothing, at 4000 it give a kick at 3000, and then another at 4000..... but still the initial delay..... anyone else notice that... and yes i've checked timing in that area, even adding alot of timing while its 2500-3000 and the boost is up does stuff all.....

Cmon someone must have some drag results and what they have done... SydneyKid, have you any input on the FAST software mentioning 4 different part nums for the auto 33's ? I guess if so its possible there isnt just S1 & S2 33 turbos ..... I've got a few other pecularities i've noticed i'll share if someone posts up.

Hi Guys, after alot of searching i can't seem to find much info on drag times for the auto guys. Can we have a post from those who have ran there cars ..... i've done abit of work on my car now and its certainly slower than the manual boys.... so i need some auto guys to compare with , as i just feel somethings not right. Heres my cars specs S1 R33 sedan Auto Std turbo LINK plug in (i tuned it on DYNOLOG so power reads lower dont forget) 145 rwkws (stock auto gets about 110 on these.) boost 11.5 psi, turning it down to 9 psi to keep wastegate open (more just rolls power off earlier ...... ahh the joys of free dyno sessions) No AFM pod (no CAI) factory airbox and modified GTR snorkel coming MV auto shift kit Iridiums .8mm gap (borrowed 32 GTR coils as mine died) Splitfires on there way New rear 255 tyres , gripping well R34 GTT cooler 3" dump , 4" magic cat, Tanabe jasma catback Now best i ran last week was a 14.53 @ 95.3 Last night i ran a 14.32 @ 98.6 (iridums, shiftkit, gtr coils) I think time was more so from me manually shifting .......auto shifts at 6100 every time, but this makes revs drop to 4200 and it bogs a tad.. so reving higher while falling off the power a little makes shifts higher and not bog. So, im perplexed, what do you guys get Also in my readings last night i saw one guy post that the fast software shows 4 different part numbers for the auto turbo ?.... maybe i have a small one !( turbo haha) Gary

Scottman, what dyno was it on ? The dynologs read alot lower than the DynoDynamics ones (most common). I just had car on dyno yesterday to retune, and all i could get was 145 rwkw's (Dynolog) (was tuning it myself) Now bear in mind this is S1 R33 GTST, std turbo 3" turbo back, and i just put a 4" magic cat in (which does work well by the way , 4 gas analyser confirmed) I have a plug in LINK. No AFM (3" SS Pipe to pod) Carbon cleaned it too. R34 GTT cooler And just fixxed the coil probs with a mates 32 GTR coils borrowed till the splitfires arrive... also new BKR6EIX iridiums (.8mm std gap). After last tune the coils shat themselves , siliconed them to get by, but power was flat... Also fitted a MV auto shift kit. Its been a busy 2 weeks ! Heading out to drags again tonight to see how it goes... Two weeks ago with it feeling flat it ran a 14.6 @ 95.3 mph So i hope i can get a 13 tonight ... time will tell. I think you should go out to the strip and just see what mph your getting ......that will be a better indication of how well the cars going.... as your dyno may read low as well. Gary

*wrong thread*

Installed the kit tonight, i pity you guys who did it on the ground !!! Hoist is magic, add a height adjustable oil catch, and its alot less messy, although still some. Works fine, pretty smooth at light throttle... in some instances its nicer than before , due to not having a factory comp , it was surging abit anyhow. Anyway , happy with it. Gary

My kit finally arrived today , sheezz Ausie Post had me worried... near on two weeks from Adelaide to Townsville. Anyway, the next dilemma now, trying to get a filter service kit locally..... was told it was no probs so i didnt get mike to send one.... and after ringing a few auto places ...none..... ring Nissan and part way thru the convo, after asking for an "auto" filter service kit, he asks me if its a manual......... Sheezzz No.2 .... So i said, look dont worry about it ..... Sigh, if i can get one its going in tomorrow night..... but i know my luck..... Either way i should be able to drag it again this sat to see the difference. Gary

double post , doh !

Haha never noticed until you pointed it out Cubes Thanks for the pics and measurments, this will aide those looking immensly. Gary

Hi Ruffels, I've got one... least i will have once i pull it off the car for you. When did you need it by ? I really can't get it till next week. Say $30 shipped overnight to your door. (long as its not a PO box address, as someone has to sign) Gary

Thanks Cubes, that would be really helpful. Looking at the pics the left one has the flange tucked under the housing more.... and looks to stay thicker as it curves around. This is the turbo i have paid money for, but have asked the guy to hold sending until i verify more.... i inatially though it was the right hand turbo, and this looks similar with the flange further out...... bit hard with the pic angles to see.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=83136 Anyway, help appreciated, look forward to pics tomorrow, thanks again. Gary

Bass, which one is which in the pic ?? I just bought a turbo that looks like the right side turbo.... but i suddenly got a feeling that is wrong, and the VG30 is the left in the pic ??? Gary

Hi Mate, i can't PM you, as it rejects it saying you can't recieve PM's or your inbox is full. What did you want. I was offering $30 + freight anyhow. Gary

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ?? Its so easy, i do it all the time. Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot. Don't use an oxy, as they will melt........... also dont try this on aluminium ones.... Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more. Hope it helps. Gary

Damn, sorry guys totally forgot to put what car its for ! Unfortunately its for an R33 Sedan... i assume the coupe will be the same though. Gary

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Hi Mate, On the odd chance it doesn't sell tomorrow, give me a yell please. Thanks Gary

Hi Guys, I,ve just sold the dual stage boost controller on the car and the rocket switch someone had put in the car was mounted in the Automatic T-bar's surround... So now theres a big hole there (two actually, guess they missed the first go !) Any one done a manual upgrade have one in good nic ?? (aside from the normal shiny plastic finish peeling, thats ok, it's getting painted) Thanks Gary

Why are Walbro's junk ? Less than claimed output, or longevity etc ?? Gary

Ok, after abit of driving today, i have noticed the extra jerk forward on changes. I'll won't ramble on any more until i come up with something. Gary

Well to be honest i think a reasonably basic setup would work fine.... have the retard based on tps and revs and map load... all combining ... the bigger each one, the more retard, up to a maximum value. I mean for the most part that would totally suffice i would suggest .. Can you think of any others that would need to be done ? I can make a board and put it all inside the LINK, so it would be plug and play anyhow once done. The only hard part is determining when a shift is about to happen..... im not sure wheather the comp and auto cpu use straight signals or actually communicate with one another via a serial protocol of sorts... im guessing second option, unfortunately... I guess i could just look for conditions that indicate a change, ie full load, revs start dropping, tps stable... would take some logging to get an idea really. (edit thinking about it , looking at revs and tps for the shift indication should work, say if revs drop by 5% without a corresponding tps drop, we could assume a shift is taking place and retard , based on tps pos, map load and revs) (edit again Might have to put a threshold on map too as i forgot if you drive up a hill, revs can drop and you dont always change your foot position.... lots of datalogging required to analyse different conditions i think) Gary

Yes i agree piggyback soloutions arn't the most desirable. But sometimes are the best option for the desired results. As you've pointed out, even if it was an option in an aftermarket comp, the amount of detail would be far less than the stock comp. I'll look into the external soloution i suggested, if i can find some wiring details on the auto comp and i'll whip up a trial circuit and have a play.... also will get into links ear about it. See if they are sympathetic towards doing it at some stage. Gary

I see your point, but i truly can say the shifts didn't feel any harsher or uncomfortable on light throttle by any means. I'll live with it this week and see how i feel then, as i havn't had it in long(link). The power is only 150 rwkw's (dynolog ... stock line is about 110 on them. I had 125 rwkw with just exhaust and pod. Gained 45 rwkw's midrange, and 25 top end... no more midrange blues finally) So, if i was to interface into the auto ecu and detect a gear change then retard the timing externally (custom ignitor with retard input) , what sort of timing would you pull out ? Gary

No the link doesn't back the timing off on gearchanges. From an engine point of view there is no need if tuned correctly at all load points. But i guess you ask as you want it to soften the power to the auto on the change ? My way of thinking is if your putting in an alternate to factory, generally your looking for power, so why not add the shift kit to the auto and not worry about it. Doing data logging it seems the auto takes a full second to shift , thats from the time the revs start to drop till they start to climb again. (foot flat). Shift kit will be here next week so i'll let you's know how it changes the time. Gary