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Fastrotor

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Everything posted by Fastrotor

  1. What do you mean 'both' parts Ali ? there are 4 parts required. I'll wait and see if DamageInc comes through first, obviously best to get all 4 bits off one person if possible. Gary
  2. Still looking for these.... DamageInc never got back to me........... Anyone got them ?? Gary
  3. Mate its a nissan motor, and auto ...... it qualifies Thats quite amazing. I would love to see how you got the auto to work with the gtr 4wd system, got any pics and info on how you did it ??? Also as Robb asked, what box & whats done to it ?? Got any vids or pics of the car ? Gary
  4. Forget it...... im going Tomei Expreme now ..... thanks.
  5. Oh ok, that sounds interesting..... although i'd prefer to keep a 'skyline' wheel of some sort to keep it looking stock if possible. Mike knows i'm doing my own one, but there was no info exchanged. I had to figure it all out myself. The main gear selection is done via 2 solenoids , using a binary arangement, ie on,on off,on on,off etc . Then there is a separate overdrive solenoid and a separate lock up clutch solenoid. These are all just on or off type The line pressure solenoid is via PWM , 0 pwm is max pressure, to 100% on for lowest pressure. This is why , when you disconnect the 'brown' plug to the auto, it defaults to 3rd gear (3rd = off,off) and line pressure is max. Gary
  6. yes Robb, electronics tech for 20 years now ! Lots of scoping with an oscilloscope to see what signals are coming in from what etc , then design the board in software and send board design off to be manufactured. The microcontroller i used was a ATMEGA64 (atmel) ...... looking at upgrading to a newer atmel micro in the next version as it has more 16bit timers i need. Anyway bit too deep for a car forum i think. Yes manual is easy, once you work out the solenoid order, just base it on the T-bar input. quickest way to test all the hardware. Writing the software to do all the 'auto' side of things is the challenging part for me. I'm not exactly a guru software guy ! Paddle shift is easy. I'm just looking for a factory steering wheel that will fit the R33 S1 and look half decent !! Gary
  7. Sounds real nice Matt, can't wait to hear what it runs once sorted..... going by all the comments i've read, most people are blown away by the extra low down the 30 makes over the 26 or 25 .... Robb, i custom built the circuit board so that it replaces the stock computer..... i just rat the blue factory connector off the original board and solder it onto mine, so it all fits inside the std auto comp case. It uses a microcontroller to run the whole show. Its still being developed.... as you might imagine it takes quite abit of testing and trials to get it sorted. I've also done a "universal' board of the same controller, so its a possibility to sell later on.... but its still got a ways to go. Gary
  8. Cmon, with the amount of aftermarket dump pipes being put on noone has a set with heatshields ?
  9. Go the HQ !!! Yeah i was thinking of calling KEAS to see what there able to do etc ..... I just wish someone made a valve body with transbrake that retains the electronic control still..... Whats the specs on the motor Matt ? Gary
  10. I've built a custom auto controller and during initial testing i set it up for full manual... racing would be fine, on the street , not for me Also the reason i want to retain electronic control is to make it tiptronic , with steering wheel paddles. Best of both worlds then. Ah no, i drive like grandma when he's in the car. I'm not that irresponsible !! Is the Re4R03A a stronger box ? Same fit as the 401 ?
  11. haha yeah might be best to wail till the slicks arrive i'd think Yes its the RE4R01A. Well i guess i'll find out how well it lasts This car is an all rounder, with baby seat in the back for my son !! So full manual is out of the question. Gary
  12. Still Looking guys.
  13. So i assume you cannot retain the gts-t factory REO with the GTR replica bar ?
  14. Ah sweet, thanks nismoid !! So one could easily expect that the 34 dumps should handle 450 pretty easily then since the 33&34 are bigger than the 32..... I'll try to find a set of 34 ones for a month or so, then just settle for the 33's if i have no luck. Thanks for the inside info Gary
  15. Hi, Looking to buy some R34 GTR dump pipes and there heatshields if you have them too please. Thanks Gary
  16. Yeah sounds like you need abit bigger (or smaller size in reality!!) converter to make use of the transbrake. I just spoke to Mike at MV today about what im doing etc . He said 450rwkw is right on the edge for the 4 speed jatco..... hmmm .... Also, you can get a transbrake for them, however he buys it in from the states (the valvebody), and its fully manualised, running full line pressure always...(ie really drags only type car use) ... about $7-800 odd....... So that put a stop to that plan......, will just have to sort out weak as piss rear brake problem so i can stall up the old fashion way. He also agreed something sounds wrong with my converter also, as they aim for only about 6-7% slip up top...... i have alot more . So when motor come out, it'll go down. They don't do the converters themselves, they have a contract with a converter shop. not sure which one. Gary
  17. Ah thanks mate. Yeah i only ask since the 33 dumps are alot easier to come by....... i think i'll just stick it out and find some 34 dumps and be done with it. Gary
  18. Oh you found all 4 bits ? awesome. PM sent. Gary
  19. From reading alot of threads , what i can glean is that R32 dumps are a bit crappy, but the 33 & 34 ones are ok . What i want to know if anyone has any testing info, is one better than the other ? I know the 33 ones are cast, and the 34 ones are Stainless steel. Flow wise , are they on par with each other ?? Also, are they interchangeable with each other ? The best info i found on here was Ben from Racepace saying on a 375rwkw gtr, putting on tomei manifolds and dumps didn't add a thing. He didn't mention what model it was.... Anyway if you can contribute some test results, please share , thanks Gary
  20. Thanks Mitch, that would be great. Also after the factory heat shields too if you have them (for manifolds and dumps) Gary
  21. Here are two pics from the manual and i've circled in red the parts im after. Thanks Gary
  22. Thanks Mitch, but thats the one part i have aquired. I'm surprised the other bits seem so hard to find considering most go to a hard pipe kit ! Gary
  23. Hi mate, thats a great time ! Transbrake and 3ltr torque helps ! What was your 60' time with the transbrake ?? Gary
  24. Looking for the 4 pieces of alloy inlet and outlet pieces that BOLT to the stock turbo's please. Surely this shouldn't be hard with all the hard piping kits going on these days ! Thanks Gary
  25. Any updates auto guys ? Hows the new housing Peter? HEY STAN , love the car in the Magazine mate, congrats !!! My build has stepped up to the next level now. After alot of deliberation, i've decided to go to the rb26 head, and twin turbo's. The 3L bottom end is apparently nearly ready. Its now costing quite alot ...... its costing me over $2k just to buy all the GTR stuff i need (thanks johno) ! Then the head work and cams will top $5K , so that will happen next year at this rate. I'll be happy to have the bottom end and all parts bar turbo's paid for by chrissy. Aim is 400+rwkw on pump , and 450+rwkw on E85 (Or more likely 60/40 methanol/petrol) . Going to talk to Mike at MV about a transbrake too... but i think he isn't keen on them in jatco's from memory. Need to discuss getting current 3500 converter dyno'd or tested anyway, as its slipping alot more top end than the 2800, considerably so .... Also , i will be swapping the LINK G4 plugin (of which i've wired in every extra input available !! haha) over to the LINK G4 EXTREME. Reason being , aside from the extra analogue in's i require, it can drive the low impedance injectors directly with its peak&hold drivers (means it will allow much better control over LARGE injectors (1000cc+) at the low end, idle etc. Also twin knock sensor inputs directly. Extra ignition so no more waste spark needed too. And i'll build another tech edge wideband controller and run two of them to the link for logging and quicktune ! Ah its going to be fun ! Can't wait to be finally back on the dyno tuning it ..... Anyway, back to lurking. Gary
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