Fastrotor

I'll book the plane tickets tonight

Yeah what are the turbine housing sizes of the outgoing 35 and the new T04z ?? Having a pressure ratio over 2:1 is why your power has stopped increasing. Without knowing turbine housing sizes id still say you just need the next turbine housing size up.

Stan, Just re-reading your post, and i have to say, i highly doubt you'll get an extra 2-300 rwhp out of it !!!! I estimate a max of about 70 rwhp or 50 rwkw's extra .. So up around 420 rwkw. I'd be happy to be wrong for sure, but going on the Hp rating of that turbo and working on a conservative (for auto with a medium stall) 15% driveline loss , thats my prediction Gary

Once again, talk to Mike at M V Auto's in Adelaide Sounds like you might be well served just calling and telling him what you want to achieve from the car and see what he reccomends. Don't forget to account for going larger later on..(it almost always happens haha) Do yourself a favour and get a good sized trans oil cooler. I used a davies craig one inline with the stock calsonic one. Gary

Got that single port back on yet Lithium ? Gary

Call Mike at M V Automatics in Adelaide , as ask for a price on a shift kit. Also get him to supply a service kit as well.... think its included anyway but best to ask. Others will have to recommend workshops in your local area to do the job. But most shops could do it easy enough. Gary

Thanks Marko, i've bought the Nitto off Paul And thanks for pulling out Rezlo, sounds like you got a good deal on an even better setup for your needs. Gary

Ok, thanks Paul, let me know. Just out of curiosity, assuming money wasn't a consideration, would you pick the tomei over any other ? So the Tomei uses a Saw tooth design ? Anyone got any nice pics to show of one open ? Also for the guru's..... whats the disadvantage of the saw tooth design ?? I ask as i assume the newer gerotor design is better somehow since nissan swapped to them. (from a factory motor point of view not racing) Gary

Hey Paul, i was almost set on getting a Tomei pump for my 2530 , there like high $1600's delivered (well they were 2 days ago, now 1750.... but the dollar is set to climb apparently.) Do you seriously reccomend a Nitto over one of these ? If so what can you do one for ? Gary

Any results Lithium ? Eagerly awaiting the results. Gary

Ha, i was reading this thread thinking, hmm Rob in NZ runs 7.7's odd and doesn't use studs..... and if anyone needed them.... ! Save your money, find something else to spend it on .(like thats hard) Gary

Ahhh ok sorry Lithium, i though you had an INTERNAL wastegate, with the talk of bigger actuators etc. Ok, i was rushing to leave work at that time, so i didn't pick up on it. Hmm anyway, pretty much same deal, since you proved the best case scenario, a good boost controller should be able to come very close. I've used the Norgren pressure reg lots of times on EXTERNAL gated cars. No problems, works real good. However i did recently have a rotor that began to spike in the winter, so we fitted an Eboost2. No probs with spiking, and also boost comes on quicker now, owner is over the moon..... (and thats on a 250rwkw HIFLOW, so it was already a monster down low in a 1000kg car) I've only played with the avc-r once many years ago, and they seemed difficult, and a few reviews i've read seem to confirm there a pain to set up..... got a mate with a BLITZ DSBC-r or gizzmo or something else to try perhaps ?? Trent from URAS rates them pretty highly(gizzmo), just under the Blitz , and he was kind enough to post up some graphs to support his preferences Gary

Ahh, now thats made me think.............. Ok so the "small" actuators spring would increase in tension far more rapidly than the larger actuator, for the same flap opening (this is constant as a certain opening will allow a certain boost.) So therefore for the same given travel, the smaller spring will have to start at a lower seat pressure, so that at full extension required it is up around the 14pound. Ie small might be 7pound and end at 14 for a set travel, whereas the larger,longer spring might only increase from 13-14 pounds in the same distance ..... make sense ? I think im happy with that explanation as to why the bigger pods work well. Any mech engineers confirm my thoughts ? Gary

Guys, found a really cool PDF for setting the Actuator preload to obtain a boost pressure. http://www.ddcsn.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/18SP670.pdf Gary

Sorry i was typing my last reply and didnt see your post Cubes until after. Firstly, that is some great results from a can change Cubes, will keep in mind. On your Rb30, the original small can, was it just a stock one with the adjustable arm to tighten spring to 14 psi ? Im asking as i wonder if it has more to do with the spring being so compressed that it leaves little room to move for the diaphram.... ie tighter spring, more boost and less flap is able to open. Can anyone explain why, if both actuators eventually regulate at 14 psi , why the bigger one would stay closed for longer and aide spool ?? Are we talking direct connection Cubes in your example ? Gary

I can't quite understand what you meant above Lithium, with the plumbing arangement ? And if you plumbed it so the boost from the compressor just blows out thru the solenoid with nothing going to the Actuator, then thats the same as no hose connected to actuator, so no gain. Did you mean something else im missing here ? To me, you have proved without doubt it can boost alot quicker, ie 15 by 3600. So all you have to do is find either a mechanical or electronic controller capable of completely removing any pressure to the actuator until just before you set threshold. That should work fine. Im thinking cheapest option to verify is use one of the norgren pressure relief valves you mention, or one of the cheap "gated" ball valves. (make sure the gate is tight enough so that it flatlines at 15 psi (eventually) first when directly connected to comp cover) Gary

The thing i don't get is that Lithium ran it with the current actuator, just with the hose disconnected and it went to 15 psi by 3600 rpm .... so if the spring was too weak it should not have improved it so much. If a boost controller fully kept boost pressure away from the actuator until just before full boost reached the desired level, it should be able to achieve similar results should it not ? Im only very familiar with the Eboost2, so once i set the duty , and gain, i up the gate pressure till it just over spikes a tad , you can feel the improvement in spool time as you move it up..... Any of you guys saying the spring helped your situation using external gates ? For the record i suffer the same problem, using an ext gate with a 9psi spring ...just using solenoid off the computer to up boost, if not active though. full boost (23psi) is 5500 + , ie horrible. (where it shoud be mid-high 3K's). I have a gizzmo controller to try. Can't say im a fan of the menu system compared to the eboost, but im sure i'll work it out. But i'd like to hear some reasoning behind why a boost controller cant replicate the no hose mod (ie best case) Lithium replicated. I assume they just don't fully remove boost from the actuator.... guess you need to get the CRO out Lith and measure it. Gary

Its ok mate, i'm a fair bit away from re-mapping the ecu nowadays. Plus i do all my own tuning on the dyno. Thats why i say it was good to see 200 odd.... i had an LINK ecu at that stage and unlimited time on the dyno to sort out power and could only get 145 kw odd..... but then again nissan FAST software lists 4 different auto turbos, and two manual ones ..... i could just have a small turbo, who knows. But thats light years away now For the record i did modify the R31 Ecu i had with the RB20 NICS i swapped into my R31. No info was avail like the R32 stuff. I did change mapping and timing and got it going pretty well. I remember fitting a 1M eprom to it (they use 128K) and then using a binary switch on the upper 2 address lines. That way i could run 4 maps and simply swap between them on the fly ! Good for trying stuff out. You might have seen the R31 wiring pinout on the web..... I did that 8 years ago ! Gary

Let us know when you next run it up to see if it aided your problem. No i will be keeping the Tial and HKS manifold now Peter. Same as the .82 A/r housing. The 3ltr should make it all work abit better, at least gain some low and mid back. Going to plumb the screamer back in though, it gave me the shits big time. Can't wait to get back out to the sprints with it.... its been nearly two years since the line's been out there !!!! Gary

Each time i upped the converter i lost mph, ie HP lower !. So i guess with a manual i could have got 330+ easy. If i revved it to 8K id say there was another 10-15 in it also. All conjecture now though. Bring on the dirty 30. (once running again i will do a run in 3rd with and without the converterlockup, so might give an idea of loss) Gary

Haha, yes mate, you are the benchmark ! It was Dangerman, but he sooked out and sold the lot But you've upped the bar quite some with your motor. Ah thats right, you have the 26 head on your 30. Lewis Engines is building the bottom end for me. Arias custom pistons, precision H beam rods, crank collar, Hi-vol sump, modified rb25 oil pump , (asked to machine to fit the tomei pump for later though), Ross balancer, & Special Dilithium Crystal Harmonic resonator. Doesn't sound like much, but its the most i've spent on a motor , by a long shot ! And its only the bottom end. Im just going to put my head onto it myself for now. See where its at Hp wise and go from there. I will procure an RB25 head and get a full overhaul and port work etc etc later on as funds permit. Least thats the current brain fart idea im running with..... it changes regularly, especially with beers. I just paid $450 to the dentist would you believe for an hour, and i can barely open my jaw, so drinking it is for tonight dinner ! Anyone know if the NEO head is same stud pattern inlet and out as RB25 ?? Gary

You've got 250 rwkw still on the stock 370's Brendan ? Jeeze they must be maxxed of close to it ! I gotta watch myself.... i get all caught up trying to get to the same power as i see some guys on here, and i gotta keep reminding myself its thru a 3500 stall..... haha, still doesn't stop me trying If i can get up around Stans level, i'd be happy. (Yes i know stan's auto ! i mean't other manual cars) Gary

I haven't said anything for a while as i finally blew No.1 Cyl ring land. I've just been driving the car round on 5cyl's as i need it to pick up my son. But the good news is that the rather expensive 3ltr bottom end is underway currently. Hope to have some good results for you in October. See if i can't have a shot at Satanic's 34 monster Go the AUTOS ! Gary

Thats pretty damn good mate for all the stock stuff !! I don't know what the problem was with mine, whether a dyno thing or not im not sure, but best i could get with the stock parts was 146 rwkw's ..... So personally i think you've done well !! Gary

I'll Be coming down this year finally with a fellow rotor head. Can't wait to see it all. So glad they now allow 6cyl's to the event !!!! Will look out for Twoogle, been keen to have a gander at your car paul. Also like to check out your car Adrian if your able to bring it ! Gary